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VS series lll V8 5spd ute cam package

keith reed

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Regarding your cam package. It really depends what you want to do with your Ute and what you have already done. It would
be a lot easier for you to give someone like Camtech a ring and let them help you with your choice. The bigger cams might
look more impressive on the dyno but might be a pig of a thing to drive.
 

Timbo

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Regarding your cam package. It really depends what you want to do with your Ute and what you have already done. It would
be a lot easier for you to give someone like Camtech a ring and let them help you with your choice. The bigger cams might
look more impressive on the dyno but might be a pig of a thing to drive.
Thanks finally a bit of advice I can use . Cheers
 

gtrboyy

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Chat to whoever is going to tune it first.
 

whiskeytango

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Yeah I've been looking into setups also as I have the exact same ute as you. I messaged camtech end of last year and got this back.

"If you are going to do a cam swap the cam below is what I would recommend.
You will have to shave the heads to get the comp up to 9.5:1.
You will get away with your 3.08 diff ratio wit this cam."

Camshaft CT2248 49907-110
Camshaft $770.00
Link bar lifters $595.00
Dual spring kit $462.00

Plus rockers will need to be done so another $600ish. Plus machining, gaskets and tune so expect over 4k if you do it yourself.

I haven't bothered doing it yet cause I don't want to machine heads for compression. Might as well do it properly and do pistons and deck. At that stage might as well even do a stroker as our blocks are already cleared for it. If you're willing to spend 4k you might as well spend another 4-6 and make it boss.

Everyone says do it once do it right so I'm spending my money on all the other bits that more power will break. Gives me more time to make the right decision and less work patching parts when a 400hp banger blows the shitbox getrag apart or your stock brakes fail to pull you up.
 

Timbo

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Yeah I've been looking into setups also as I have the exact same ute as you. I messaged camtech end of last year and got this back.

"If you are going to do a cam swap the cam below is what I would recommend.
You will have to shave the heads to get the comp up to 9.5:1.
You will get away with your 3.08 diff ratio wit this cam."

Camshaft CT2248 49907-110
Camshaft $770.00
Link bar lifters $595.00
Dual spring kit $462.00

Plus rockers will need to be done so another $600ish. Plus machining, gaskets and tune so expect over 4k if you do it yourself.

I haven't bothered doing it yet cause I don't want to machine heads for compression. Might as well do it properly and do pistons and deck. At that stage might as well even do a stroker as our blocks are already cleared for it. If you're willing to spend 4k you might as well spend another 4-6 and make it boss.

Everyone says do it once do it right so I'm spending my money on all the other bits that more power will break. Gives me more time to make the right decision and less work patching parts when a 400hp banger blows the shitbox getrag apart or your stock brakes fail to pull you up.
Hey that's something to think about might just do the lot makes sense.. **** Box getrag tell me about it mine already has 4th gear synchro crunch around 2k to fix !!
 

whiskeytango

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Yeah a lot of it is in the shifter linkage it's loose as ****. Mine crunches second and reverse unless I shift really smooth. I've learnt to drive it without crunching but you cant slam gears like a T5.
 

keith reed

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My vh has a vp 355 stroker. It had to be clearanced for the stoker motor while I understand yours will not. I went for the Camtech hydraulic flat tappet cam 248 520 rather than the hydraulic roller lifter cam. I did consider the roller lifter as they are better but I could not justify the expense. After reading an article in Hotrod magazine on valve springs I got in contact with Compcams in the States. I gave them the specifications of the cam I had and they recommended a beehive spring that would suit. They recommend beehive springs as the spring of choice up to 7000 revs and as the cam I have chosen runs out of puff at 5800 this spring will be more than adequate. As my motor is 355 cubic inch I have also gone for 2.02 inlet valves. The standard inlet and exhaust are all you require for the 304 cubic inch.
It is well worth having a read of the Hotrod article on valve springs. You should be able to google it rather than buy an old copy of the Hotrod magazine. For a person like myself it dispelled the rumours regarding beehive springs. Not all beehive springs are equal and Compcams have a very good name so that is why I went with them.
What I haven't mentioned is that my motor is still in bits. I now have all the parts I require so hopefully I will have it back together in a few months time.
 

gtrboyy

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Start with smaller stuff like shorter diff gears,shifter bushes or new shifter then clutch/flywheel...extractors/100 cell cats/decent exhaust/ACE memcal maybe airbox mods.

That will keep you content for awhile & can do it in stages....after that save coin up major engine mods as just cam/tune without compression hike or the other mods you'll be let down by the cost vs performance.
 
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