VT spark issues

[Lex]

Strange it is on one side of the bank, does the O2 sensors work for all 6 or one for each side, just thinking one may be faulty after backfiring, the honeycomb inside the flow meter OK.

I've also read with the incorrect plug settings & the back firing takes out the maf?

 

[Bay 13]

Most of the dfi around seem to be cactus of the shelf or soon after.

I just go the wreckers & buy the lot, dfi coils & mount. Also have one in the car for spare, with tools to change it.

Was going to Dandenong in 2018 to buy a tranny. Got most of the way there car decided to shity itself.
(whenever this had happened before. The dfi coil packs where always the culprits. Anyway swapped them out, & 10 - 15 min. later l was on my way.

After having these problems in the past & going home & expermenting with different coil packs & dfi's & the coil packs where always suspect (faulty), same with the dfi's. Thats why l change the lot.

Probably right if the fuel not burning up, it pops and smells rich. I don't think a O2 sensor would do it, but they are around 2 years old one may have failed, I'm not getting any fault codes.

 

[Bay 13]

Those plugs should be set 1.00mm, l've also even read on this site .8 mm. This is relation to LPG.

Yeah, I read that somewhere, then someone else says doing so users more fuel, I have always run them at 1.5mm with no issues, 1.3 for the supercharge I think, you probably get away with a smaller gap on straight gas, but as its dual if I change to petrol, it won't like it.

 

[Bay 13]

OK mate got my codes, didn't think it had any as no engine light is on, List are as followers:

13, 44, 45 - RH O2 sensor. Stuffed lean and rich.

64, 65 - LH O2 sensor lean and rich.
23, 32, 76, Air temp high / air flow out of range / air flow variation between left and right banks. Possible because I started it with the MAF and air box sensors removed! Air flow between left and right banks has me stummed, is it because of the O2 sensors?

47, no CAS signal - x 4 / Have replaced with new fuelmiser brand from Repco. Reasons from stalling when hot.

57, injector power monitor voltage, terminal B12 / got me stumped this one. Maybe DFI? Help!

So, nothing about DFI that I know of, so I will replace the O2 sensors again this time not with Ebay crap. What else do I need to look at with this list of codes to fix and how to go about it and location, thank you in advance.

Reminder only 2, 4, 6 cylinders are the ones that seem to be affected, 1, 3, 5 look great and firing.

 

[Immortality]

The O2 sensors control each bank so if one side is playing up and not the other then the O2 sensor is a likely culprit.

Is your VT factory fitted LPG?

 

[Bay 13]

The O2 sensors control each bank so if one side is playing up and not the other then the O2 sensor is a likely culprit.

Is your VT factory fitted LPG?

No, it was fitted with aftermarket I believe.
Back in 21 I changed both O2 sensors, both NTK brand, maybe the backfiring stuffed one up, could it be the cat blocked? Or would this effect both sides if the cat was stuffed?
Thanks for replying.
B12 I found out is the PCM wire from the Ignition relay, so I swap that over with the A/C and see how it goes, maybe it showed up because the car stalled from the CAS.
Bloody cars hey, they can empty your pockets and give you headaches.

 

[Bay 13]

Update, the rain has stopped yippee, today replaced O2 sensor on the right bank and I went and brought new Bosch leads, car is running smooth on petrol so that side of things it is fixed, new issue lpg only will run with more revs applied will not idle. Perversely I had to pull the water-cooling side off to replace the broken water pipe fitting, might be the O-rings inside not sealing as it has 2 pipes / dicks, one is for the gas output to the throttle body the other one to the mixer screw, stupid set up having gas going through water / coolant, I brought a mixed gas O-ring set (green) to replace maybe they are not accurate enough. Hard to get parts for LPG around here only Ebay has them, so looks like I have to buy from it to get proper seal. Thanks to those who helped, and to all the people who shared info on this sight in how to fix issues, the guy who wrote up the CAS removal was a big help, just one think the 1/4 inch 2-1/2 inch UNF bolts were correct, but you won't be able to pull off the Pully bolt unless you use 3-inch bolts, I just cut an 12mm bolt to size and stuck it up the inside of the crank bolt hole to press off, did the trick, oh and change the seal too. Happy days but the LPG side of things but at less I can drive on petrol.

 

[Bay 13]

Site not sight, lol.

 

[Immortality]

LPG needs the water running through the unit otherwise they have a tendency to freeze up and stop working.

What type of LPG system is it? somewhere in the system there should be a filter. Don't know where though and don't know if they are easily serviceable by the owner or if it's a specialist job.

 

[Bay 13]

LPG needs the water running through the unit otherwise they have a tendency to freeze up and stop working.

What type of LPG system is it? somewhere in the system there should be a filter. Don't know where though and don't know if they are easily serviceable by the owner or if it's a specialist job.

R90E Converter, it's a Manchester tank, yeah it has water flow, I had 2 remove the bottom hose fitting as it was broken, then when the car was playing up, I gave it a rev and the top one blew off, my guess gas was leaking and pressurized the converter and blew it off, probably from the O-rings when I replaced the bottom fitting, at first it was a split water hose to the converter, so gone through lots of coolant in a month. I say the O-rings are not correct size and causing the leak at the idle mixer screw, hi revs work fine just at the low side, I don't want to blow another pipe outlet, at 40 a pair not cheap.

I also reduced the gap on the spark Plugs to 1.4mm gap, that was the gap on the other set. Not much change to it. Funny thing using feeler gauge 2 of to make the size = 1.23mm in the gap of the old plugs but on the spark plug gap coin it says 1.4mm, maybe the 2 on top of each other on the feeler gauge is not the way to go as it not really flat, but they are the same gap as the last set came out.