VZ audio

[shrapnel]

i mounted my tweeters to the bracket once i removed the oem tweeter and ran new cable from that to the crossover.
with the tweeter wired up and installed.... step back thru the steps given n u should be laughin.
please note with the top trim carefully to locate all 4 clips and firmly press into place

cold_carve, i had some spare time today to replace front tweeters and front door woofers with jaycar's. Thanks for your info, all worked out great.

BUT, I'm at the point of wiring the crossovers to the stock h/unit. How do you get the *cradle* for the h/u out? (I got the h/u out, no dramas). I presume you've wired the crossover's input to the outputs of the Blaupunkt h/unit but as you know it docks into special connectors in the cradle, so you must have removed the cradle and did the wiring behind it. Correct?

 

[cold_carve]

as for wiring the crossovers all i did was jus utilise the existing wiring under the dash. u shouldnt need to remove the cradle or anything else other than what u had to access the vented trim described in my writeup, if u feel u want more room to move u can remove the kickpanels - to do this properly it starts back at the "B" pillar unscrewing the sill trim cross the bottom of the door, firstly u have to make sure u have "tamper proof torx bits" cant remember the size, there is one at the "B" pillar 3 under the centre strip on the pannel... that removed a phillips head screw lives under it and remove that along with another phillips head screw on the side of the kick pannel.
as for the cradle no need to touch that unless u are considering rewiring the lot - in this case get phreddy's rca mod and wire in an amp!
wires.. simply trace back the woofer wiring from the door>gromet>under the dash extracting these 2 wires from the loom install the crossover inline with these wires make sure these are correct colour tracing before u cut them... the side commin from the HU use as the crossover input and side goin to the woofer install as the woofer keeping note of the polarity of the wires u cut... ADD new cable goin from the cross over to the tweeter on each side as the stock crossover wire is exactly the same HU output - wiring the new tweeters to this will result in crap sound production = damage to the tweeter

 

[shrapnel]

ADD new cable goin from the cross over to the tweeter on each side as the stock crossover wire is exactly the same HU output

Thanks, I was about to start destroying the dash

So the signal going to the stock tweeters and stock woofers is exactly the same? I did notice the outputs on the head unit are only FL, FR, RL, RR, so I presume Holden splits the signal somewhere in the loom and feeds it to both the tweeter and woofer. Then the stock tweeter has a capacitor on the back of it to filter out bass. Correct so far? If that's the case, the easiest for my setup would then be, as I've run new wiring to the front door woofers (I left the stock wiring uncut), to get the h/u signal from the stock tweeter wiring, feed it into the inputs of the crossover, and from then on is obvious...

 

[garfa]

run new wiring or cut the exhisting and put the x-over inline and run new wires for the tweeters

 

[cold_carve]

Spot on Garfa, yeah i came cross the same mud puddle when i did my install, i thought there may have been a crossover but the only thing doin signal filtering on the stock system was the capacitor on the tweeter.
i had the woofer nutted out easy so all i needed to do was stick the crossover in between run the new wire for the tweeter to the crossover.
couldnt be a better thing, till i get money for the headunit mods - sorry phreddy its takin ages mate, slowly gettin money up for it tho!

 

[garfa]

but i dont like the stock wire, its got about 4 strands and really isnt flexible without fracturing the copper. something with a few more strands (and hence bigger guage).

 

[shrapnel]

Thanks for all your help. To recap for whoever ends up reading this thread in future...

stock blaupunkt h/unit,
Jaycar Precision Response kevlar gear (6.5" splits in front, 6.5" coax in rear) $200 from NewMillennium's web site.

front woofers (doors) -- ran new wiring and installed new woofers -- minor mod of plastic inside doors to accomodate 6.5" in 6" hole

front tweeters (dash) -- ran new wiring and installed new tweeters -- pretty much drop-in replacement

rear doors -- stock wiring (I rarely have passengers) and coax cpeakers -- minor mod of plastic inside doors to accomodate 6.5" in 6" hole

and the result is substantially different from stock. As it stands, I have no need for an amp -- the volume is more than I can handle (self check-may be getting old?) , and I am amazed by the quality of the sound the head unit can actually produce. It's clear, both the bass and treble are quite good. It was the wiring and the korean woofers/chinese tweeters that did the damage in terms of sound quality, which was probably expected given they probably cost .50c to produce. Once you see them you'll know what I mean.

If you like the stock look of the car, don't like attracting the scum of the earth who will try and get your brand spanking new head unit, don't like fiddling with insurance, then this is by far the most cost effective way of doing it.

Thanks garfa and cold_carve.

 

[garfa]

hey no worries, any time.

 

[cold_carve]

Welcome Shrapnel, glad to have helped!
enjoy the new sound :w00t:

 

[aperfectcircle]

Thanks for all your help. To recap for whoever ends up reading this thread in future...

stock blaupunkt h/unit,
Jaycar Precision Response kevlar gear (6.5" splits in front, 6.5" coax in rear) $200 from NewMillennium's web site.

front woofers (doors) -- ran new wiring and installed new woofers -- minor mod of plastic inside doors to accomodate 6.5" in 6" hole

front tweeters (dash) -- ran new wiring and installed new tweeters -- pretty much drop-in replacement

rear doors -- stock wiring (I rarely have passengers) and coax cpeakers -- minor mod of plastic inside doors to accomodate 6.5" in 6" hole

and the result is substantially different from stock. As it stands, I have no need for an amp -- the volume is more than I can handle (self check-may be getting old?) , and I am amazed by the quality of the sound the head unit can actually produce. It's clear, both the bass and treble are quite good. It was the wiring and the korean woofers/chinese tweeters that did the damage in terms of sound quality, which was probably expected given they probably cost .50c to produce. Once you see them you'll know what I mean.

If you like the stock look of the car, don't like attracting the scum of the earth who will try and get your brand spanking new head unit, don't like fiddling with insurance, then this is by far the most cost effective way of doing it.

Thanks garfa and cold_carve.

Didn't happen to take some pics did you.