/sigh, no offence, but there's heaps of information available by searching, BUT, in response, what series block do you have? Series 1 block, like mine, is one of those "don't bother" situations. Saying that, it
is still possible, and has the same benefits as VL Turbos with the Series 2 motor, just that the series 1 motor doesn't have the necessary holes for the water/oil, unlike the series 2 engine which has the holes pre-drilled. To get around that, for the series 1 motor, you just need to add a T piece joining the oil/water lines, or something lol. I'm not 100% sure on the details.
Here's some info that might help (from when I was searching for turbo'ing info):
*HiComp = Turbo'ing the Series 1 RB30 as the compression is higher on the Series 1 / RB30 N/A*
Detox_Nath83 said:
It can cost upwards of $1000 depending on your application and what you want to achieve. The best thing on a highcomp setup would be to source a VLT factory setup and run 6 - 12 psi with a cooler and turbo INJ and ECU.
Mine cost approx. $1400 for the conversion and mate to tell you the truth, it goes hard.
Turbo [If its not internal gated you need an External Wastegate]
Oil/Water lines to suit
Turbo ECU
Turbo Injectors
Cooler and piping/Couplers
Turbo Exhaust Manifold
Boost Gauge
If you're upgrading your gearbox then source an MX7 conversion (Turbo Manual Gearbox).
N/A Auto is a hit or miss. You can run an aftermarket cooler on them to extend the life on them.
Mine is only using the factory cooler (built in to Radiator) and is ok so Far. It cops abuse, too.
Just do it smartly, no top of 2nd gear boosting burnouts cos' that's when **** happens.