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Where does your V8 temp gauge sit

xcop5l

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mine sits about the second bar on the hwy and just below1/2 to about the 4th bar in the city depending on temp and my whole system has been replaced (except for the heater core). im going to fit thermos soon too and when i do i will build a thread on how to
 

vnstu

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I dont have a oil pressure gauge. ... I run 40 weight oil in mine just incase I want to give take it to the limiter as soon as I start it ...

same here.

dont know why mine runs so cold...thermo might actually be stuck open now i think about it. i drive about 15km along a freeway to work in the morning and the engine isnt warmed up when i get to work....
 

vnstu

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At just above the first full bar, my oil pressure is still in what I think of as "not quite warm enough to flog" territory. And this is a 300K old bottom end...

thats why you have no oil pressure...?
 

mikefch9

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I see this thread hasn't been used in a few years but my VN 5litre with mild cam and aluminum radiator running AU fans regulated by a Greenfoam tune reads just above half on the gauge going upto 3/4 at traffic lights of going slow in car parks. The fans come on at 92C and off at 89C. It never overheats without A/C on and can ide in park forever on a hot day with the fans cutting in and out.

With air conditioning on highway driving the gauge shows still just above half. With stop start driving I can't run the air-conditioning or the temp reads 3/4 of 100C+++ on my manual temp gauge tapped into thermostat housing.

And one more thing a VN 5 litres running at 1st baron my temp gauge means they are running at 45C. according to my spitfire manual gauge (not 100% accurate gauge perhaps but it closely matches the temps set on my tune)

I also run an autometer oil temp gauge and like pandaman post above at that temp the oil pressure is on the low side.

The temperature here is Darwin is constantly 33C and that measured in the shade but especially now during the buildup.

any suggestions?
 

pandaman

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I see this thread hasn't been used in a few years but my VN 5litre with mild cam and aluminum radiator running AU fans regulated by a Greenfoam tune reads just above half on the gauge going upto 3/4 at traffic lights of going slow in car parks. The fans come on at 92C and off at 89C. It never overheats without A/C on and can ide in park forever on a hot day with the fans cutting in and out.

With air conditioning on highway driving the gauge shows still just above half. With stop start driving I can't run the air-conditioning or the temp reads 3/4 of 100C+++ on my manual temp gauge tapped into thermostat housing.

And one more thing a VN 5 litres running at 1st baron my temp gauge means they are running at 45C. according to my spitfire manual gauge (not 100% accurate gauge perhaps but it closely matches the temps set on my tune)

I also run an autometer oil temp gauge and like pandaman post above at that temp the oil pressure is on the low side.

The temperature here is Darwin is constantly 33C and that measured in the shade but especially now during the buildup.

any suggestions?

I remember reading somewhere that the air conditioning condensor changed design on the VP's as the VN design placed a lot of heat load on the radiator. The VP condensor was supposed to be better, dunno how much better though, might be worth a try if you know a fridgie who has some spare time and a healthy amount of curiosity.

Another possibility is that your water pump may not be up to the task, particularly if it's been replaced at some point with a cheap unit with a pressed metal impeller. I doubt it's the problem, but it's a possiblity.

What brand of ally radiator is it? Same size or bigger than standard? If it's the same size as stock or an ebay cheapie, chances are you're not getting much benefit out of it over a standard radiator.
 

mikefch9

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I changed the thermostat to an 82C. I can't rememeber what the other one was but it had engraved on it "made in USA' and "16-1-2001" It was installed about 4 years ago. I tested it out thinking it might not be opening in boiling water. It roughly measured 5mm open and 7mm opening on the new one. Flushed radiator and block and put in new "tactally xtra cool GOLD RED in. This seems to have improved the problem as I ideled the car here about 1600 for about half hour with a/c on and temp read just under 100C . Not driven in traffic in the middle of the day with a/c yet.

My compressor is very noisy- worn bearings? and is the only thing in the engine bay that hasn't been replaced -besides the wiring loom. Might see what a new one is worth. whats involved in replacing the compressor?
 

mikefch9

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or yea I'm running a 3 core desert cooled radiator and AU fans sealed up with plastic welding covering and holes. The radiator is way bigger then standard and had to modify the brackets the get it in. Also had to cut radiator hoses as standard too long. Baffling problem since occurs only in traffic -hwy fine- when a/c on otherwise like I said the car can sit and idel all day long.
 

pandaman

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I changed the thermostat to an 82C. I can't rememeber what the other one was but it had engraved on it "made in USA' and "16-1-2001" It was installed about 4 years ago. I tested it out thinking it might not be opening in boiling water. It roughly measured 5mm open and 7mm opening on the new one. Flushed radiator and block and put in new "tactally xtra cool GOLD RED in. This seems to have improved the problem as I ideled the car here about 1600 for about half hour with a/c on and temp read just under 100C . Not driven in traffic in the middle of the day with a/c yet.

My compressor is very noisy- worn bearings? and is the only thing in the engine bay that hasn't been replaced -besides the wiring loom. Might see what a new one is worth. whats involved in replacing the compressor?

A worn out compressor shouldn't pump out more heat than a new one. In fact if the compressor is on the way out, the pressure (and hence the temperature) on the high side of the system (the condenser in front of the radiator) should be lower than for a brand new compressor.

or yea I'm running a 3 core desert cooled radiator and AU fans sealed up with plastic welding covering and holes. The radiator is way bigger then standard and had to modify the brackets the get it in. Also had to cut radiator hoses as standard too long. Baffling problem since occurs only in traffic -hwy fine- when a/c on otherwise like I said the car can sit and idel all day long.

Two thoughts, what's the go with the water pump? If it's an old one, that could be the problem, if it's a new cheapy with a pressed metal impeller, then that could also be the problem.

Second thought, very very simple idea, are your AU fans spinning the correct direction? If the polarity is wrong, they will push air from the engine bay through the radiator rather than pulling outside air into the bay. In this configuration they will still cool, but nowhere near as effectively. The amount of air those bastards move, they should be able to cope with just about everything.
 

mikefch9

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thanks for the replys the radiator is set up properly with with fans pulling a large amount of air through the radiator controlled via a greenfoam tune. the air con works on the stuart hwy at 80kms as I get closer to darwin and start hitting traffic light temps rises to about 105C and still rising then I turn the a/c off and the temp goes down to around 90-95 and will stay there and then go down further when I get back on a clear road. I"ve just decided its a worked engine and it get pretty hot up here especially now in the build up. The car never gets above 82-92C (when the fans kick in) and in traffic or stationary without a/c on the a/c works fine as long as the car is moving. Thanks
 
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