Would you need forged internals for a 355 running between 6lb to a max of 10lb (maybe

[383 hatch]

You will need to add the following:

*Machine, drill and tap for 4 bolt main caps (pretty pricey, you will also need a specialist machine shop to do this, not many run of the mill engine reconditioners have the facilities).
*Line bore and hone main tunnels (needs to be done for the 4 bolt main conversion).
*Balance job
*Clearance block for stroker (can be done diy if you're careful)
*Fit cam bearings
*Head studs

That's about all i can think of at the moment.

Those main caps sound like cheap junk to me for $125, i would definately invest in some decent 4 bolt caps. I'd rather stick with the factory 2 bolt mains than run cheap 4 bolters....

I'd also ditch the MACE cam kit and buy a cam of my choice then get it all tuned properly once it's up and running. I wouldn't use a generic tune, especially with a boosted engine running cast crank, rods and hyper pistons. The tune will need to be spot on to make it live.

I'd probably also spend the extra and invest in a pair of MLS head gaskets aswell.

I'll let you know if i think of any more

 

[ari666]

plus freight: Holden Billet 4 bolt splayed main caps,5.0ltr, 308,304 | eBay


edit LOOOOL thats per EACH. ahahah. sorry my bad, im sure i saw holdens for that price. but maybe it was SBC...

 

[Tassiepatrol]

Wouldn't you need to clearance it for the stroker crank? Only the later 304's came pre clearanced.

Thats why i said little bit of machining cost , as i have been told its a VS engine but I have no idea

 

[Tassiepatrol]

you fkn serious??? cam and lifters are around 400 bucks. what comes in that kit? springs collets retainers? you are already paying 580 for heads to be reco'd, not much point paying for that blah twice. unless the tune is 435 bucks... seems a bit rich. surely there are guys on here that can post you a tune for MUCH less than that.

edit* i have just been told that people pay up to 1250 for tunes... yikes

HOLDEN EFI V8 5L CAM & CHIP PACKAGES - Mace Engineering Group stage two kit, i'm not sure seemed ok to me, but if its not and you can point me in the direction of better price similar products

and yes fella's I am aware it needs and will be balanced with new clutch and harmonic

 

[blo304]

Your planning on running 6-10psi? You really need a billet crankshaft rebuilders crank, 4-bolt mains, Carrillo h-beams with L-19 bolts and some JE forgies.. Some -9s with 6 headbolts T&M style. :smoking:

 

[ari666]

Mate, there is no way in hell id let that cam kit near my charged 4x4. Talk to wade cams. You need a specific grind for boost and some dyno time or itll explode

 

[Tassiepatrol]

Mate, there is no way in hell id let that cam kit near my charged 4x4. Talk to wade cams. You need a specific grind for boost and some dyno time or itll explode

add if its not running boost for a while as it may be 6 months be for the boost happens on it, can change out cam later , cam grind sounds like $$$ ring to it



is there a off the shelf cam that would be great with out boost, and still function ok with boost with out blowing the heads of the engine and can deliver noticible power increase from under 2000rpm up to the 5,000/6,000rpm range, I am finding it hard to understand why I have read about standard 5.OL bottom end running 6/8psi an not having trouble, and yet here we are with a built stroker engine running 9.5:1 comp and yet its going to explode with a charger :/ what am I missing here ?

 

[ari666]

Last time i spoke to wade they quoted me 180 bucks for a generic grind on the 308. There is a user on here with a turbo 304 and wade cam, so they probably would have done a few in their day.

Static compession doesnt really come into play so much with explosions. Its more about ignition timing and valve overlap. Im willing to look like a total douche here, but my understanding is that you will need less overlap, less intake duration and a little more exhaust duration to get good performance. Im not basing it on facts or expierence, just what i would believe to be true.
I wouldnt imagine a fi would need overlap or long intake opening to improve flow, simply cos' its already being fed its meat and 3 veg, but the exhast duration would need to stay long to help scavenge all the leftovers.
Turbos and chargers need to back off the ignition timing a little at high boost to stop preignition, whereas a larger cam actually needs more rpm. Advancing the timing 30+ degrees on 10psi would leave you with a nice neat little hole in the top of your pistons.
And lastly if you use that tune it wont allow for enricment at higher boost. Im not 100% sure itll need it at 6psi, but i sure as hell wouldnt try it out on an engine i just dropped half a tonne on. You will need to make sure that as the psi increases, then so does the fuel.
The kit you are looking at it entirely unsuitable.

But i could be talking a load of bollucks

 

[skyracer]

I charged my holden stock 350ci engine with a vortech V2 hitting 11 PSI manifold pressure and it ran fine. Made 265kw at the wheels. But the tuner did say he estimated the engine having a life expectancy of about 50,000 k's before giving up and that was as a weekend driver.

I then got a stage 2 blower cam to suit boost and a new manifold to get a bit more power out of it. Going over the 300 rwkw mark I was strongly recommended to do the bottom end with H beams and forged low comp pistons to suit the boost as the stock bottom end was at risk of letting hell break loose. Geoff ran the same charger on his clubby for like 2 years on a stock 304 engine making around 230rwkw or so. Never had a problem...

 

[Tassiepatrol]

Last time i spoke to wade they quoted me 180 bucks for a generic grind on the 308. There is a user on here with a turbo 304 and wade cam, so they probably would have done a few in their day.

Static compession doesnt really come into play so much with explosions. Its more about ignition timing and valve overlap. Im willing to look like a total douche here, but my understanding is that you will need less overlap, less intake duration and a little more exhaust duration to get good performance. Im not basing it on facts or expierence, just what i would believe to be true.
I wouldnt imagine a fi would need overlap or long intake opening to improve flow, simply cos' its already being fed its meat and 3 veg, but the exhast duration would need to stay long to help scavenge all the leftovers.
Turbos and chargers need to back off the ignition timing a little at high boost to stop preignition, whereas a larger cam actually needs more rpm. Advancing the timing 30+ degrees on 10psi would leave you with a nice neat little hole in the top of your pistons.
And lastly if you use that tune it wont allow for enricment at higher boost. Im not 100% sure itll need it at 6psi, but i sure as hell wouldnt try it out on an engine i just dropped half a tonne on. You will need to make sure that as the psi increases, then so does the fuel.
The kit you are looking at it entirely unsuitable.

But i could be talking a load of bollucks

When you say the kit is unsuited, do you mean the cam kit, or the stroker kit ?