Behind cabin filter - what is this?

[mtd]

Fu-Manchu - "Not to mention, the method show completely destroys the insulation panels which are no longer available for S1 or S2.
I converted to series 2 which has the evap lines exposed and no need to damage the panels in the future.

To get to that one bolt on the firewall is a **** show. I removed the panels really carefully and even then had to replace them. In hind sight, I would have just used CarBuilders stick on aluminium heat shield instead.

Those bolt locations are also leak points for water.

I don’t like doing repairs that break or ruin other things to get them done."

JD - "I‘ve seen others on here just cut the top part of the fan plenum off to get access to the recirc door but I wasn’t up for butchering the car."

Agree, i'm totally not into destroying parts of the car... whether insulation panels, plenum, or otherwise. I've seen a few of those pics - hack job. At the end of the day IF THERE IS NO OTHER WAY, then sure, i'll go for it. But until there is no other way...

JD - "So basically you’re removing part 19 to replace the recirc door. All the screws and the bolts that go through the firewall aren’t pictured but once you start removing stuff it all becomes pretty obvious what needs to be undone."

Yeah sure. I'm all for learning on the job. I would like to however post a diagram that outlines all the HVAC parts (well, bigger ones) that someone could get a really good overview of the system (know immediately what they're looking at, a few notes and tips). I've learned a bit from JC, don't mind giving a bit back - happy to mark it up with advice from the pros.

Gonna have a look at this once this bloody rain clears. I have no shed/garage so it's all open and car cover when needed.

Cheers

 

[chrisp]

Agree, i'm totally not into destroying parts of the car... whether insulation panels, plenum, or otherwise. I've seen a few of those pics - hack job. At the end of the day IF THERE IS NO OTHER WAY, then sure, i'll go for it. But until there is no other way...


Yeah sure. I'm all for learning on the job. I would like to however post a diagram that outlines all the HVAC parts (well, bigger ones) that someone could get a really good overview of the system (know immediately what they're looking at, a few notes and tips). I've learned a bit from JC, don't mind giving a bit back - happy to mark it up with advice from the pros.

Gonna have a look at this once this bloody rain clears. I have no shed/garage so it's all open and car cover when needed.

Cheers

See if you can download one of the bootleg copies of the OEM service manuals. They are very big, but have a lot of detail in them. I wouldn’t follow the offical instructions religiously, but they are very helpful with fine details.

Also, you might be a bit of a trailblazer with respect to doing this work (at least on this forum), so take lots of pictures and post them up so we can all learn. And post your experiences too - so we can all learn from your experience.

 

[mtd]

See if you can download one of the bootleg copies of the OEM service manuals. They are very big, but have a lot of detail in them. I wouldn’t follow the offical instructions religiously, but they are very helpful with fine details.

Also, you might be a bit of a trailblazer with respect to doing this work (at least on this forum), so take lots of pictures and post them up so we can all learn. And post your experiences too - so we can all learn from your experience.

Yeah ta Chrisp. I've got that PDF (if only they had kept the links... likely lost on conversion), . Big section on HVAC, but nothing that I can find.
The other frustrating thing is that so many have said [not just this forum] "yeah found the recirc door broken, but, oops, forgot to take pics of the fix." Frustrating...

I'd love close ups of the recirc door break, how the break affects the operation (or lack of) of the actuator etc etc. Sure, I can try to imagine it, but until you can see it for yourself it's difficult to completely comprehend with any sort of accuracy/appreciation.

If the job was 10-15 mins and had a part worth $200 i'd pay Holden - not worth the angst. However from what I've heard, seen, and imagined, it ain't no 15 minute job. Maybe a $80 actuator, $80 re-circ door, and anywhere from 1-2k in labor costs - time is money. Hey, I refuse to pay a plumber to dig a trench! I'll pick up the spade and he can do the finicky work with the gas/pipes etc. Pay them for their skills, not grunt.

I will be taking photos and try to cover it all. How I wish I had a double-garage and spare car! I might leave for a week or two as the son is going to Europe and I can flog his Lancer!

 

[Fu Manchu]

The options are

Try and do a reccie by removing glove box, fan motor and actuator. Takes 30mins to put right.

to take a chance and try the method that wrecks the insulation.

Or remove the entire dash and HVAC. Huge job. Can take 7hrs- 7days.

 

[mtd]

Fu - "...I removed the panels really carefully and even then had to replace them. In hind sight, I would have just used CarBuilders stick on aluminium heat shield instead."

Yes, if I look sideways at these heat panels they disintegrate. Good idea re the Car Builders stuff - it looks like tough stuff.
You know, I asked Car Builders re their vapour barrier and fitting it in the VE door (moulded VE cup holders). They have NEVER done a VE!

 

[Lex]

Yeah ta Chrisp. I've got that PDF (if only they had kept the links... likely lost on conversion), . Big section on HVAC, but nothing that I can find.
The other frustrating thing is that so many have said [not just this forum] "yeah found the recirc door broken, but, oops, forgot to take pics of the fix." Frustrating...

I'd love close ups of the recirc door break, how the break affects the operation (or lack of) of the actuator etc etc. Sure, I can try to imagine it, but until you can see it for yourself it's difficult to completely comprehend with any sort of accuracy/appreciation.

If the job was 10-15 mins and had a part worth $200 i'd pay Holden - not worth the angst. However from what I've heard, seen, and imagined, it ain't no 15 minute job. Maybe a $80 actuator, $80 re-circ door, and anywhere from 1-2k in labor costs - time is money. Hey, I refuse to pay a plumber to dig a trench! I'll pick up the spade and he can do the finicky work with the gas/pipes etc. Pay them for their skills, not grunt.

I will be taking photos and try to cover it all. How I wish I had a double-garage and spare car! I might leave for a week or two as the son is going to Europe and I can flog his Lancer!

Any chance you can go to a wrecker & find a hvac system already taken out of car? Then examine it, while taking pics?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Any chance you can go to a wrecker & find a hvac system already taken out of car? Then examine it, while taking pics?

This. A fantastic idea.

Then you can have a good recirc door. You can get your eyes over it all.
Remove just the half you need, get it clean and free of mould.
When you remove your broken section, you have the good bit ready to go straight in and save a lot of time. Lots.

 

[Fu Manchu]

As for the pdf manual, it’s fine to use.
Enable the side bar to navigate it.

Links are found by using the search/find bar. Copy and paste in the link name. Search through. Link found.

 

[J_D 2.0]

to take a chance and try the method that wrecks the insulation.

The firewall insulation in the engine bay is getting wrecked, that’s a given unless you rip the entire dash out and all the wires, pipes and hoses going through the firewall to remove it.

It’s too brittle to pull back to access the bolts required. You might be able to cut holes in it at specific spots where bolts need to be removed but I just ripped my firewall insulation out altogether.

 

[mtd]

Try and do a reccie by removing glove box, fan motor and actuator. Takes 30mins to put right.

Yep, that's the plan up front. See what I can see.