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VE SV6 2009 Commodore Gremlins. Please help

uglyoldfatbastard

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Hi everyone,
Any other ideas beside ECU/ECM?
Cheers
Myself personally if it was my car I would be checking every single fuse and relay in the vehicle that relates to the ECU
 

Anthony .

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Myself personally if it was my car I would be checking every single fuse and relay in the vehicle that relates to the ECU
Thanks mate. My mechanic checked all fuses (battery area, passenger seat as well as the engine bay and all checked out fine). Are there any other areas that should be checked? What area are the relays? Sorry but I have no mechanical knowledge about relays and electronics
 

lout

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have you actually had an autoelec check power and grounds at the ecu etc
 

Fu Manchu

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We can fill 30 pages of what ifs.

If you want answers, a bidirectional scan tool would be hooked up. That’s not a little gadget that tells you codes. They are far more than that. All parts of the network are looked at as a network map.
Then begin the slow task of back probing circuit after circuit based on results from the scan tool and looking at wave form data on an oscilloscope to make sure everything is up to scratch.

Have we got an answer on the blue stuff on the battery. A photo?

Have we got verification of a load test and battery health test results?

You can buy a relay tester. It’s one thing to use a multimeter on a relay. Testing its operation under repeated loads with a relay tester is another thing. They cost like $30. You can get them on eBay. They don’t need to be fancy. They provide a straight out yes or no after a test.

Everything else is like weeing into the wind.

An auto sparkie worth their salt would no how to back probe and use an oscilloscope. Ideally you use a diagnostics tech. Someone who specialises in vehicle network diagnostics.
 

uglyoldfatbastard

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Thanks mate. My mechanic checked all fuses (battery area, passenger seat as well as the engine bay and all checked out fine). Are there any other areas that should be checked? What area are the relays? Sorry but I have no mechanical knowledge about relays and electronics

74 & 75 is where I would start but as stated in messages above you really need a relay tester OR a spare good one to plug in to test.
I think you are going to need to get someone to help you who is prepared to look into and not in a hurry.
 

Anthony .

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We can fill 30 pages of what ifs.

If you want answers, a bidirectional scan tool would be hooked up. That’s not a little gadget that tells you codes. They are far more than that. All parts of the network are looked at as a network map.
Then begin the slow task of back probing circuit after circuit based on results from the scan tool and looking at wave form data on an oscilloscope to make sure everything is up to scratch.

Have we got an answer on the blue stuff on the battery. A photo?

Have we got verification of a load test and battery health test results?

You can buy a relay tester. It’s one thing to use a multimeter on a relay. Testing its operation under repeated loads with a relay tester is another thing. They cost like $30. You can get them on eBay. They don’t need to be fancy. They provide a straight out yes or no after a test.

Everything else is like weeing into the wind.

An auto sparkie worth their salt would no how to back probe and use an oscilloscope. Ideally you use a diagnostics tech. Someone who
BABA4C5F-F4BA-45FC-8CFA-047FEF1CBBA7.jpeg
specialises in vehicle network diagnostics.
 

Anthony .

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Am hoping for the auto elec. to come check it out sometime next week. Will keep providing updates and the remedy
 

jeffs2008/my09

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Do you think it would cause the “contact dealer” and stability control to go off? Will try a battery tomorrow hopefully
Anthony,
After spending almost $900 now on a similar issue had five days no MIL or engine warning check lead me to fuel cap and lo and behold bingo all purfect.
Today I drove to Bankstown for doctors appointment then coming home I heard this chime and was asking the Holden mechanic why does my battery have a big blue compacitor on it and mechanic said it's fine last week however today error indicate a poor battery or alternator issue ? I also asked what about O2 Sensor.

His reply was look take it to another auto electrician and have it scanned so it's being done at 9.00am tomorrow and I will definitely give you this outcome as he reckons a bad or failing battery can cause all sorts of sensors to go off including the ECU IM LOST WITH THIS it's an anniversary edition in excellent condition a Holden Sutton Arncliffe New Car managers vehicle been serviced every time it needed it had new timing chains belts sensors EVAP,All things needed to be done had been when I purchased this calais so I'm again Cleared the ECU Memory and errors cleared Service X contact Dealer then today Stability Control which after oil pressure switch replaced on 27/1/2024 cleared MIL now I cleared this by removing petrol cap did the key on and off 4 times I then put petrol cap back into it then cleared holding trip button turning key on then held down enter key four to five seconds this cleared all issues and car is back into Manual /AUTO Mode and drives very fast NOTHING STOPPING IT.

I still feel this problem is either alternator or battery all help appreciated and will one day help others

good luck to all
VE owners with this bug as I feel sometimes this car has either no charging from alternator or battery is failing I have owned it three years not one issue until my car got hammered by rain and it's been going on three to four weeks HELP PLEASE $$$$IMG_5128.jpeg
 

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What you feel a problem is verses what the problem actually is will not be the same unless it’s a lucky guess.

Fault finding is all about gathering evidence. Test something to prove it’s good or bad.

As an example, if the alternator is bad, why? What caused it? Wear and tear or is it due to a software glitch? Is it due to corroded wiring? Is a loose pin in a connector? If the fault is guessed without evidence of the fault, what happens is the new alternator could be faulty as well.

These threads are full of guesses. It’s like fortune tellers doing a reading.

To properly solve it, it needs a skilled technician. It needs a high end scan tool (bidirectional) and it needs a scope to get data from circuits to prove a fault and physically see the voltages and wave form data going between sensors. It’s not easy.
 
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