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I didn't even realise that was a feature on the vz Thanks for the help.

righto lads. problem solved. relatively easy fix. the old boy snapped the red retainer clip on the injector harness plug amid his shenanigans and replaced it but not correctly. so either the old boy or myself has managed to plug the injector harness in 180 degrees. pulled the retainer clip...

i had a feeling that might be the case regarding the priming. i have a mate that works at repco so i can try get a discounted noid set possibly tommorow. i do have a few old skool test lights floating around if i cant get the noid set. i also have a CAS that the old boy got with the s/hand...

Hey Guys, been a while since i last posted, (probably a good thing haha). bit of backstory for those who love reading. I"ve had my 2005 VZ acclaim wagon LE0 for a few years now, bought it cheap at $600 with a supposed snapped timing chain, well it was just a snapped valve spring so easy fix...

If you got it already half stripped, I'd be sticking a magnet down the oil galleries, some crud or dust could be built up cause a blockage of sorts. I nabbed a 2005 vz wagon for $600 with a "snapped timing chain" which turned out to be a broken valve spring, I snapped a bolt that holds the cams...

Sorry for the late reply been busy renovating the kitchen haha, there hasn't been any switching in the wires, it's just the wire with 12v to the reverse switch on the gearbox has lost its power, sorry for the lack of info on my other reply, what I meant was, if I can run another source of power...

Hey Rob, thanks for the reply, my Utes reverse lights do run off the same fuse and I've replaced it with multiple other fuses of the same amperage that I know work and I still do not have power to reverse lights. I was just going to use another 12v power source and run an inline fuse as well...

Okay so I've done some research and cannot for the life of me figure out why. I have just done a T5 manual conversion and I know I have to extend the Lime green and pink wires to reach the gearbox and bridge and earth the grey and grey/blue wires to start. I Bridged the pink and green wires...

I know a few people in panelbeating actually close friends, I just want to be able to paint my own car for once haha

She'll be right, just get a new bonnet for when the strut takes off to Mars.

Ute and Wagon diffs are the same.

It's now F*cking working! Swapped the brushes over and used fine emery paper on the contact points. Now works beautifully! Pushing 13.8V. Thanks for all the help guys. Appreciate it. P.S don't know why that made it work because I already swapped them ages ago.

I saw a person on JC that painted his car with a paint roller, would the premix cans be better than that? And yeah I was going to clear coat the **** out of it as my paint code is B148 bottanicca Blue Mica. Metallic. Thanks the help.

So you reckon try changing alternator and main power wire? I'll check the engine fuse, but I don't think it's damaged because I started it the other day.

Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with premix paint in the spray cans? Like, fast fading or peeling, and if it's worth painting with them or not. Cheers, -Zac

Sorry for the really delayed response guys, have not had the ute in the shed as there was no room. It's only a cheap $60 multimeter but it's never failed me haha. I'm going to swap alternators with one off a car that i know works for sure, just incase by coincidence they have both **** them...

So, I have removed the fusible link and connected the wire straight to the battery, I have tried the jumper lead connected to chassis and engine but still no charge. The voltage output reading of the alternator is the same as the battery voltage.

It could just be a bizarre coincidence that both alts are stuffed, I took the wires for alt off of the other car that the alt was originally on(Sense wire/fusible link,charge wire) and put it on, as I said earlier it hasn't died instantly like it used to, I will try connecting it straight to the...

Sorry, yes negative terminal is earthed correctly. Before I swapped batteries I was using another battery and jump cables to start it as the battery in it was dead, and when I removed the cables the engine would die, I rewired the alternator cables today and I removed the jump cables and it...

Ok so today, I have checked the bulb in the cluster, changed it just for precaution but still no battery light when ignition is turned on(bulb is fine), have taken the alt out and checked the brushes, also cleaned contact points inside alt with fine emery paper, I am going to run another charge...

Oh so that's the alternator.. I thought it was the turbo!

Hey mate, thanks for the reply, I have already checked over the wiring 3 times now, battery is in the correct position, not sure what it is, when the engine was In the other car, it was charging and putting out 13.9v or thereabouts as it should be, now I check the voltage and it's on 0.5v...

Soo, I Have a 96' VS Series 3 Ute, standard 3.8l ecotec 5spd manual, swapped my Crf450r for it, got it and it needed a new engine so I proceeded to do an engine swap with a spare engine I had in a paddock bomb up the back, (also replace every Gasket and seal in engine) prior to the swap, the...

Don't mean to be rude, but how did you not notice that? Or why didn't you check that earlier?