5w30 engine oil for a VT

[vxcalais_01]

I Had a brand new Hyundai I30 & done the first oil change at 7,500kms & used a full synthetic 5w/50 which was within the specs that could be used in that motor & after a 1,000kms there was a rattle in the motor so i cahnged back to a full synthetic 10w/40 & it stopped only to return a 1,000kms or so later so in the end it went back to Hyundai for warrenty & long story short it had worn the bearings out & the piston pin holes in the piston causing this rattle.....

Conclusion..... A Standard spec oil is more than enough for a street car, there is absolutly no need to exceed any standard specs unless it is not standard, simple as that....

Sounds more like a fault than a Oil issue. Oil barely has trouble getting to the bearings and pistons. If you said to me due to small galleries it couldn't reach and lube the dual overhead camshaft etc,maybe but 5w50 would be the highest you would wanna use in a dual overhead cam. Elf made the Excellium 10w50 for factory WRX which are overhead cam. Same as Corollas, they even allow for 20w50. In such a short time, it would definately be a factory fault. What happened to your I30, they are a very good car.

 

[coasty]

dont care what size engine you have still trace its roots back to steam. theyre all the same. as for oils just dont expect warranty if you use incorrect oil. the dealer i do work for cancelled 4 last year alone for that exact reason.

 

[vxcalais_01]

dont care what size engine you have still trace its roots back to steam. theyre all the same. as for oils just dont expect warranty if you use incorrect oil. the dealer i do work for cancelled 4 last year alone for that exact reason.

Good points and agreed on all accounts. For the warranty period, use what they recommend, spec wise and within viscosity ranges set in the book.

 

[torch]

Hi guys i went to go buy engine oil today, they recommended i use 5w30, it just doesnt sound right to me, am i being paranoid or is perfectly fine?

dont know about the vt, but the manual for the same engine? vx recommended 10W/30, doesnt mention needing to be high priced synthetic. So its so they get better fuel economy at the expense of more engine wear? has anyone got anything to support the more engine wear, and if so, how much, will the engine still last longer than the life of the car and the owner be better off with the fuel savings using the lower viscosity oil.

 

[torch]

I use a 15W-60 oil which exceeds the recommended oil specifications,it....Basically,you want the thinnest oil possible at cold startup,but then you want it to be as thick as possible at high temps for maximum protection.Synthetic oils are usually the best at this.

Exceeds is probably the wrong word, 60 grade oil is beyond the specifications meaning oil is too thick for normal operation, meaning you work the engine harder because its creating more friction inside it - using more fuel, whether that causes more wear, who knows?
The winter grade, I dont see a problem in going lower than the manufacturers recommendations, other than it being unnecessary in our climate and making the product cost more and be potentially not last as long as a lower range mutliviscosity oil.

 

[94CLUBBY]

Hi guys i went to go buy engine oil today, they recommended i use 5w30, it just doesnt sound right to me, am i being paranoid or is perfectly fine?

Hi,just went through all this with my VX R8,10w/30 is recommended its on the filler,i don't like 5w/30 seems a bit thin,i'm using penrite 10w/40 extra 10 and its mint

 

[Brett_jjj]

Exceeds is probably the wrong word, 60 grade oil is beyond the specifications meaning oil is too thick for normal operation, meaning you work the engine harder because its creating more friction inside it - using more fuel, whether that causes more wear, who knows?
The winter grade, I dont see a problem in going lower than the manufacturers recommendations, other than it being unnecessary in our climate and making the product cost more and be potentially not last as long as a lower range mutliviscosity oil.

Well I get excellent fuel economy using the 15W-60 oil.I get 6 to 8 litres per 100 km's on the highway and around 9 to 12 km per 100 km's around town.I have also compression tested the engine and have checked the cold and hot oil pressures recently and they are well within spec,theres bugger all wear actually.The engine had done 150,000 now since it was fully reconditioned,so using this oil cant be too bad for it or cause it to wear quicker than normal..I dont drive my car slow either,it does a lot of full throttle/high revs work.I change the oil and filter every 5000 k's.

 

[torch]

Well I get excellent fuel economy using the 15W-60 oil.I get 6 to 8 litres per 100 km's on the highway and around 9 to 12 km per 100 km's around town..

sounds reasonable, though by itself is meaningless unless you compare it to what the 10W/30 oil achieves in the same engine under the same conditions.
Really only wanted to point out that your idea of "exceeding" the oil rating of the manufacturer is not such a good principle, would putting a 20W/90 oil in your motor be a good idea?

I have also compression tested the engine and have checked the cold and hot oil pressures recently and they are well within spec,theres bugger all wear actually

Also quite meaningless, one way to disguise leaky rings/create better compression is to use some heavier oil, not saying that is what is happening in your motor though.
The recommended oil pressure readings for hot and cold are for the 10W/30 oil? you should get higher readings(unless of course you are operating at the relief valve pressure setting) when you use a heavier oil, how did you factor this in as being to spec?

 

[gungazza]

i have a 5lt v8 ,and the holden log book says 20w -50w, so all you blokes useing other grades oil look out, i have usevavoline 20w-50 for 20years in diferent cars, and never had a problem ,i chage my oil -filter every 5000 ks, not the 10000ks thay say in the sevice mannual valvoline oil is cheap and good

 

[Brett_jjj]

sounds reasonable, though by itself is meaningless unless you compare it to what the 10W/30 oil achieves in the same engine under the same conditions.
Really only wanted to point out that your idea of "exceeding" the oil rating of the manufacturer is not such a good principle, would putting a 20W/90 oil in your motor be a good idea?


Also quite meaningless, one way to disguise leaky rings/create better compression is to use some heavier oil, not saying that is what is happening in your motor though.
The recommended oil pressure readings for hot and cold are for the 10W/30 oil? you should get higher readings(unless of course you are operating at the relief valve pressure setting) when you use a heavier oil, how did you factor this in as being to spec?

Easy, the compression ratio and oil pressures are well within or above the specs that are listed in the workshop manual,also theres no oil going through the engine when its being compression tested, the engine is only wound over a couple of times for each cylinder,its not running, therefore theres no oil pressure to squirt oil onto the cylinder walls to help seal the rings etc,so what oil is used in the engine doesnt come into it.Actually if the compression readings are low ,you can test for worn rings by squirting oil into the cylinder through the plug hole and seeing if the compression then comes up,if it does,the rings are worn,if it stays the same,its likely to be leaking /burnt valves.As an engine wears it slowly looses compression, and the hot and cold oil pressures drop.My readings have been around the same every time Ive done these tests, so this shows that over time, theres been bugger all wear occuring,it would show up on the tests otherwise.