Cams and torque myths.

[Immortality]

Shane is right though on one point. Torque wins races, HP wins sales (and dyno bragging rights).

 

[J_D 2.0]

Dyno results are great for marketing

And when it comes to marketing, truths are generally not always a priority, or wanted

I note that the link to the BTR cam Shane provided only shows the factory cam down to 3500rpm. Wouldn’t happen to be because the factory cam performs better under 3500rpm would it?

 

[Immortality]

It's called marketing. Only show that which puts you in a good light.

 

[07GTS]

there is a reason alot start at 3000rpm or so as its much better on the driveline, sure u can start lower but its alot of stress on the working parts to be in 4th gear at 1000rpm and mash the throttle with the dyno holding it at 1000rpm then letting it go slowly, there is a much higher risk for customers driveline to have issues which are then upto the shop to fix, when ur at the drags does driveline mostly brake at take off or mid track...

 

[moveage]

What a useless thread, going nowhere. At least in the couple prior exact topic by this member there was hard data not same old clichés.
OP in 25 words or less what is your point or ask of JC members?

 

[hademall]

Bollocks.

Please behave or this thread will be locked in short order

 

[Immortality]

Please behave or this thread will be locked in short order

Context?

 

[Derekthetree]

Telling Shane to bollocks is in the forum rules anyway...

 

[Ralphski]

Guy at work has a VF2/LS3, moderate cam making about 335rwkw with stock converter and diff. The car is fast but it's a bit of a pig, it pushes through the brakes at idle and sucks gas like it's going out of fashion around town. At traffic lights he slips it into neutral waiting for that green.

I have an old VYII with an Ecotec (go on, laugh, you know you want to) 3.8 I rebuilt & I stuck a S1 cam in it, huge improvement over standard cam, more torque, more kw, better economy. Mine pushes against the brakes at lights too, if I drop the idle down to where it should be (around 700rpm) it damn near stalls when the throttle is touched, so I keep it around 750-770 but then she'll idle along at 15-20kph.
So even little 6's can be pigs with cams, I can imaging the tugging from an LS3

 

[Immortality]

I have an old VYII with an Ecotec (go on, laugh, you know you want to) 3.8 I rebuilt & I stuck a S1 cam in it, huge improvement over standard cam, more torque, more kw, better economy. Mine pushes against the brakes at lights too, if I drop the idle down to where it should be (around 700rpm) it damn near stalls when the throttle is touched, so I keep it around 750-770 but then she'll idle along at 15-20kph.
So even little 6's can be pigs with cams, I can imaging the tugging from an LS3

Very true, this problem can happen on any engine, it all depends on the complete combination of parts. My old VH had similar issues, tuner recommended a small stall converter as it would push the brakes or stall if the idle was lowered just as you experienced. It didn't really have a big cam either, I guess we learn with age and experience.

With a smallish cam like you describe one thing you can do is retard the cam timing a little and closing the intake valve a little later, this will reduce the captured volume in the cylinder and move the torque band up the rpm range a little but shouldn't really hurt the driveability in any meaningful way.