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Engine upgrades: all comments welcome

dassaur

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How does it drive? Is manual or auto?
Auto. Drives pretty good, i'm 95% happy with it - the current tweak I'm waiting on is when it idles in drive, it occasionally gets too lumpy, probably every 10 seconds. But with A/C on and idling a little higher it's great, so when I get it back to the tuner we'll make that adjustment. It drives beautifully all through the RPM range, possibly a little doughier under 2000rpm than stock (possibly - if there is a difference it's not huge) but above 2000 it is noticeably better.
 

losh1971

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Did you fit a stally or just did a trans tune?
 

Ginger Beer

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I recommend you get a converter speced up to suit your power, rear end, wheel diameter etc. etc

Speak to Craigs Transmissions, our whoever your local performance Transmission joint is

Getting a converter speced correctly is important, don't just buy one with some quoted RPM range

It doesn't cost much more to get a billet converter built to suit your specs either

A correctly speced converter will aid in the life and reliability of the transmission as well

Don't forget a trans cooler
 

dassaur

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I recommend you get a converter speced up to suit your power, rear end, wheel diameter etc. etc

Speak to Craigs Transmissions, our whoever your local performance Transmission joint is

Getting a converter speced correctly is important, don't just buy one with some quoted RPM range

It doesn't cost much more to get a billet converter built to suit your specs either

A correctly speced converter will aid in the life and reliability of the transmission as well

Don't forget a trans cooler
We'll see how we go with the converter. I am open to it.
I've just finished my trans cooler. The biggest pwr one I could fit & attached an 11" spal pull fan that comes on at 180f and off at 165f. Bypassed the radiator. Instead I put an improved racing 145f thermostat.
In heavy city driving my temp doesn't go above 80C
(sorry for the mix of C and F!)
 

Ginger Beer

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We'll see how we go with the converter. I am open to it.
I've just finished my trans cooler. The biggest pwr one I could fit & attached an 11" spal pull fan that comes on at 180f and off at 165f. Bypassed the radiator. Instead I put an improved racing 145f thermostat.
In heavy city driving my temp doesn't go above 80C
(sorry for the mix of C and F!)
I don't bypass radiators, I like it as it helps bring up the trans fluid temp from cold

I run mine: From Trans - to Radiator- to Air to oil cooler - back to Trans

I would monitor your trans temps and see how hot, or cold, they get during normal driving
 

Skylarking

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(sorry for the mix of C and F!)
C = (F-32)*5/9 :p:p:p

PS: I'd have to resort to a desktop calculator cause my inbuilt calculator is slow these days o_O
 

dassaur

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I don't bypass radiators, I like it as it helps bring up the trans fluid temp from cold

I run mine: From Trans - to Radiator- to Air to oil cooler - back to Trans

I would monitor your trans temps and see how hot, or cold, they get during normal driving
As for bringing up the trans temp, that's why I put in the thermostat. It allows 10% or so fluid through, then opens up to 100% at 145F

I have been monitoring temps, it's been working well. Max 80C.
 

Ginger Beer

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As for bringing up the trans temp, that's why I put in the thermostat. It allows 10% or so fluid through, then opens up to 100% at 145F

I have been monitoring temps, it's been working well. Max 80C.
I always think about how long it takes to get to operating temp, and, from prior experience, what temp it sits at during winter on the Hwy

My above concerns were not initially from trans temps but from engine oil temps, I had a big engine oil cooler and extended sump fitted to my my old skyline, when I was driving during one winters day after fitting the cooler the oil temp never got over 50° c, and at the track I needed to cover half of the cooler to get the oil up to 90°- 100°c, admittedly it was winter time and ambient temps were single digit

Their is a thing as to much cooling, it seems though your thermostat has it in check, apparently the operating temp for a quality trans fluid is between 80-105°c

How long does it take to get to 80°c?
 

dassaur

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I always think about how long it takes to get to operating temp, and, from prior experience, what temp it sits at during winter on the Hwy

My above concerns were not initially from trans temps but from engine oil temps, I had a big engine oil cooler and extended sump fitted to my my old skyline, when I was driving during one winters day after fitting the cooler the oil temp never got over 50° c, and at the track I needed to cover half of the cooler to get the oil up to 90°- 100°c, admittedly it was winter time and ambient temps were single digit

Their is a thing as to much cooling, it seems though your thermostat has it in check, apparently the operating temp for a quality trans fluid is between 80-105°c

How long does it take to get to 80°c?
Takes a lot of stop start driving or lots of moving through the gears,then it gets there within 15 mins. Otherwise it will level out at about 65 during light cruise conditions. But on a big journey sitting in top gear it would level out at 70 or so at most.
I am comfortable with that temp.

Engine oil is good, gets to 90 in about 20 mins of driving at max 2000rpm.
Will get to max 104 with a couple of WOT pulls
Equalises at about 98-99
Havent added any extra oil cooling capability.
 
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