Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Extractors and cats... *UPDATE Pg 6 Dyno Results

mikey-

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
225
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
Perth, WA
Members Ride
VE SS Sportwagon
When I refer to the front or back, or LHS and RHS, it is as viewed from the driver seat.

Basically my technique was to start at the back removing everything and work forwards, then start installing at the front and work backwards.

Time Needed:

I don't do a great deal of work on cars, and my old man hasn't done a great deal in the last 20 years either, but we are both handy enough on the tools.

It took us approx 3 hours to do it all.

If we were to do a second set, I'd say <2 hour is achievable now we know what we are doing, and some of the tricks and problem areas.

What I used:

4x Axle stands
1x Crappy little trolly jack
Basic hand tools

Prep:

1. Put the car on stands, or ramps. The higher you get it, the easier your life becomes.
2. Be careful doing this, I never feel safe putting a car completely up on stands, but it's gotta be done for this really.
3. I unplugged the battery at this point as well, not sure if you need to, but I did it.

Removal Cat Back

1. Undo the 2 bolts on each side that hold the rear mufflers to the middle section of the cat back.
2. Pull both rear mufflers out of the rubber hangers. Mufflers now removed.
3. Remove the tunnel brace (4 more bolts)
4. Unplug the 2 O2 sensors (just unplug them for now, they will be way to tight to bother trying to undo them while underneath the car)
5. Undo the 4 bolts that hold the cat back to the factory cats.
6. Slide the rear of the cat back out of the rubbers and lower it to the ground (2 people made this easier, one at each end).

This took me approx 30minutes. Now I've done it once before, I'd say the next time would only be a 15minute job.

Removal Exhaust Manifold and Cats

This took me I'd say over an hour and a half. Realistically, now I've done it once, I could do it in 30 minutes.

I made a decent mistake here that now you guys wont have to as I'm telling you not to. Leave the cats attached to the exhaust manifold. There is no need to remove them, it's a pain in the ass to do, and it gains nothing.

1. Unplug the 2 O2 sensors in the cats. These are abit harder to reach the plugs, but it's do-able.
2. Remove the leads, they just pull off at the top and bottom, nothing fancy, but they might be tight.
3. Undo the bolt holding the dipstick bracket to the head, no need to remove the dipstick, just push it out the way a little.
4. Go along and crack all the bolts on the exhaust manifold, I think they were 1/2" (bloody yanky engine, everything else was metric).
NOTE: The rear LHS bolt is such a pain to access, it took me ages to remove, doing on tiny tiny increments of a turn.
5. Now remove all of the bolts, except I left the front and rear bolts still in the manifold, but quite loose.
6. Get someone under the car to support the manifold and cats, while someone removes the last 2 bolts.
7. Both sides will drop through to the bottom without any issues. Nothing needs to be moved, this is straight forward.
8. Throw horrible stock cats and headers in bin (I kept mine, just incase of defect)

Installing Extractors:

1. On the RHS you will see a steering shaft that goes from the firewall down to the steering rack. On the steering rack end there is a bolt that clamps this shaft to a uni-joint type thing. Undo this bolt. I had to open the clamp up a little with a screw driver and the shaft came off the uni-joint pretty easily. I then cable-tied the shaft to something on the RHS of the engine bay to keep it out of the way.
2. Place the O2 sensor extension harness on the LHS, this is hard once the extractors in (RHS does not need an extension).
3. Place the exhaust manifold gasket against the head and screw the front and rear bolt into the head a just enough so you can sit the extractors on these bolts. Do this to each side.
4. Pass the extractors up from the bottom and sit them on the 2 bolts you just prepared. Now begin to add the other 4 bolts into the head. I had someone support the weight of the extractors while I put the bolts in. Snug them all down gently.
5. Torque the bolts to 15Nm first pass, then to 20Nm for a final pass.
NOTE: This is what I did, it might be wrong, but it was the info I found on the net.
6. Attach the steering shaft again, I found this was easiest from underneath the car.
7. Put leads back on.
8. Screw back down dipstick.


Installing Cats:

1. Push the cat onto the rubber exhaust hanger.
2. Place a gasket between extractors and cats and do up the 4 bolts.
3. Repeat for other side.
4. Install 2 O2 sensors and plug them in.

Installing Cat back:

1. Put the rear of the center section on the rubber hangers.
2. Place a gasket between cats and cat back and do up the 4 bolts.
3. Place the rear muffler in the rubber hanger, do up the 2 bolts (repeat for other side).
4. Install 2 O2 sensors and plug them in.


And thats about it I think!!!!!! I'll read it over, see if I can think of anything I missed... But it's all pretty easy. Only thing that gets in the way is that steering shaft, which is really simple to move. And only pain in the ass bolt is the LHS rear exhaust manifold one.
 
Last edited:

mikey-

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
225
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
Perth, WA
Members Ride
VE SS Sportwagon
Hey Mikey, thats awesome news mate! Its really reassuring hearing how happy you are with the fitment and result when me and my boss are about to buy exactly the same as you. How did you find fitting the headers?? Ive never fitted a set before so did you remove and then fit the hurricanes from underneath on both sides??? Any tips on the easiest way to fit would be appreciated. We won't have a hoist, did you??

Matt

Read above for how I did it. When I spoke to NAAF on the phone, I'm pretty sure he says the he has fitted them from the top. Once the standard exhaust manifolds were out, and I looked at the room from above, and room from below, I just chose to do it all from underneath.

I know Pacemaker recomend from underneath, but also mention that the steering shaft must be moved slightly.

And when you start your car for the first time... Don't be an idiot like me and think your pride and joy is burning to the ground ahahaha. It's just the paint on the extractors and exhaust burning off. But it will smoke, ALOT... and STINK!
 
Last edited:

Foggsy

Active Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
35
Points
28
Location
Glenwood NSW
Members Ride
2011 VE SS Sedan M6
Mikey, that information is absolute gold mate, thank you so much for the detailed instructions which are invaluable to a novice like me. If you were in Sydney mate i would buy you several beers.

Thanks again! We are hoping to get 5 ppl together to get that deal on NAAF's FB page. Pretty exciting. Your photos and experience so far has more than convinced me its the way to go after 6 months of worrying about it and tossing up over brands, combo's and prices etc.

Matt
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

Exhaust Guru
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
14,639
Reaction score
1,364
Points
113
Location
Bunbury, WA
Members Ride
Strange Rover
I like the look of those Hurricane Headers and Cats,,,,,How much would those headers be on their Own?
Also can you get different Cats to Suit as this wouldn't bolt up to my 3 inch Xforce Catback..
Maybe NAAF could answer this and Price me the same Headers,,1/78..
GREAT PHOTOS....:)

I do the headers on their own for $795 shipped to Victoria, or $1495 with cats.

No, the cats now only bolt up as shown in the picture, but I can supply a couple of flanges that you can cut and weld in so that it joins like the Manta. The only thing though is the merge on the X Force, it may be in the wrong place for the Manta cats. I may be able to get the Hurricane cats that join around the bend.

On the fitment, it was a while since I had done the VE, and I have done a few between so I couldn't quite remember. If they go in easy enough from the bottom, then the bottom is what I meant lol.

Just a note when fitting the cat back, it is an idea to do the bolts up snug but not tight, so that you can still move the flaanges if you have to. I find it easier to get the rear tips perfectly lined up in the cutouts that way.

Torquing the bolts is basically just tight. Never put a torque wrench on an extractor bolt in the 25 odd years I have been fitting exhausts. After a few days when it's cold, just go around and nip them up again.
 

mikey-

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
225
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
Perth, WA
Members Ride
VE SS Sportwagon
Just a note when fitting the cat back, it is an idea to do the bolts up snug but not tight, so that you can still move the flaanges if you have to. I find it easier to get the rear tips perfectly lined up in the cutouts that way.

That's exactly what I did, cept when I had it all installed loosely, it was sitting friggin perfect ahaha. So just had to go back over and nip it all up.
 

Yergin

New Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
143
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Melbourne
Members Ride
2007 MY08 WM Caprice 6.0L V8
Just had a really good chat to NAAF - we are looking at 2 sets of what you have Mikey. If anyone else is interested, NAAF's FB page has a deal if we can get 5 people together, we can all save 100 bucks. So we need 3 other people on top of me and my work colleague.

FOGGSY -- i'd be interested if you have a room for 1 more!!.
 
Top