factory filled LS3 engine oil, what is it and when to replace it?

[the6200]

I recently bought a 2016 SS-V Redline (manual) and its now approaching 2000 kms travelled so far. When it went back for it 1000 kms/1 month inspection I asked if or when I should replace the engine oil filled from the factory..

I got two different answers from the same dealer so im a little confused / annoyed.. One guy said I should bring it back at 2000 kms for an oil change and other guy told me the oil is good till the 15,000 kms service!

These two responses are quite different in terms of oil life / kms so I don't know what to do. This is my very first brand new car so I want to go about this the most correct or best way possible.

One thing I have noticed that after about 1000 kms the engine oil has become significantly darker and the oil level has begun to drop already! Some one told me the factory filled oil is very light and will begin to burn off a bit resulting in the level dropping.

Again I don't know enough to be able to determine if I should dump the oil now myself or start topping up the oil level and leave it in. In theory I should be able to speak to the dealer about it but im just not feeling confident in doing so..

Any suggestions?

 

[RebelSS]

Hi,

I would recommend you have it changed at the 2000km interval as well as having the oil filter replaced.

The reason being that whilst the motor is being 'bedded-in' there's always the possibility of finding excessive swarf, filings from the mating parts and/or castings.

Its cheap 'insurance'.

All the best,

RebelSS

 

[the6200]

So I just bit the bullet and replaced the oil and filter..

I went and bought 10L of Nulon 5w-30 Dexos and a K&N oil filter and did the change myself. Far out these things take a lot of oil! When draining it seemed like it was never going to stop! And it took nearly 8L to fill! (about 7.7L to be more exact..)

I also did notice what looked to be very fine metallic particles in the old oil quite clearly visible actually when I was emptying the oil pan. So I assume this is some of those "left overs" from the engine production process!?

Now during idle is sounds a little less clunky/mechanical than it did before! Im not sure if im just imagining that or that the factory oil is just a temporary extra thin or light oil for the run in period. Well to be perfectly honest I have been driving it like its been run in for a while anyways!

I'll do the next oil change at 10,000 kms then give it back to Holden for the 15,000 km service. If that is the correct service intervals.. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.. Not even sure where I put it! LOL!

 

[revster]

So I just bit the bullet and replaced the oil and filter..

I went and bought 10L of Nulon 5w-30 Dexos and a K&N oil filter and did the change myself. Far out these things take a lot of oil! When draining it seemed like it was never going to stop! And it took nearly 8L to fill! (about 7.7L to be more exact..)

I also did notice what looked to be very fine metallic particles in the old oil quite clearly visible actually when I was emptying the oil pan. So I assume this is some of those "left overs" from the engine production process!?

Now during idle is sounds a little less clunky/mechanical than it did before! Im not sure if im just imagining that or that the factory oil is just a temporary extra thin or light oil for the run in period. Well to be perfectly honest I have been driving it like its been run in for a while anyways!

I'll do the next oil change at 10,000 kms then give it back to Holden for the 15,000 km service. If that is the correct service intervals.. I haven't checked the owners manual yet.. Not even sure where I put it! LOL!

My 6.0 L77 takes about 8.3 litres with a new filter. I get them the fill to the middle of the 3 marks on the dipstick which then rises to the top mark when warm. I change each 4.5 months as I never do a lot of ks. Never used a drop of oil outside of planned servicing and I did drop the oil after about 2k to make sure there was nothing left from the build of the motor. Overkill maybe but worth it to me.

Bob

 

[bradles024]

Just changed mine at 6000kms and it still looks brand new.

 

[strgas]

service intervals these days have been extended to make the fleet company's happy that they can service there petrol vehicles every 15000 km instead of every 10000km , years ago ford recommend changing oils and filters every 75000kms this would be rather costly for a fleet company in down time and servicing cost .

I would recommend changing the oil and filter at 1500km then every 10000km after that or for extra peace of mind every 5000kms .
even autos have been extended to well pass the fluids life around 100000 -110000 unless used under harsh conditions or heavy towing , the old vn's v6 and v8's were changed at 35000km major service unlike todays commodores .

read your owner's manual carefully regrading oil and filter changes . for example Nissan will reject claims if the vehicle is allowed to go over by 2000kms between services similar to Subaru .

 

[greenacc]

Mate, No doubt your oil change has done it the world of good mainly because you have got all those little metal shavings out of the system.
My only advice would be to get that K&N filter out of there before it goes back in for next log book service and put a genuine one in just so they don't get suspicious of who has been doing what to this new engine of yours.
Also check your book if you can use any heavier grades than 5W30 especially in summer

 

[OzTurtle]

I changed my oil and filter at the 1,000K "check up", and do another full change between scheduled service intervals (every 7,500k). The promoted 15k service intervals is all marketing, because the average punter doesn't want to think about servicing their new vehicle every 7,500-10,000k's.

 

[the6200]

you reckon they would make a fuss if they saw a K&N filter on there? If they asked then I would have told them that I changed it myself. I bought the K&N as there was only a few dollars difference between it and the generic so I figured the K&N would be better..

I also put a small but very strong button magnet on the end of the sump plug bolt (externally of course) so that any more small metallic particles still present are attracted to the bold and can be wiped off at the next all change. I think the K&N oil filter also has an internal magnet for the same purpose but not entirely sure. I guess I could have googled that but im just too lazy..

 

[revster]

you reckon they would make a fuss if they saw a K&N filter on there? If they asked then I would have told them that I changed it myself. I bought the K&N as there was only a few dollars difference between it and the generic so I figured the K&N would be better..

I also put a small but very strong button magnet on the end of the sump plug bolt (externally of course) so that any more small metallic particles still present are attracted to the bold and can be wiped off at the next all change. I think the K&N oil filter also has an internal magnet for the same purpose but not entirely sure. I guess I could have googled that but im just too lazy..

They probably would make no fuss but using Genuine gives them no excuse. If something went wrong they would have to prove it was the filter but that could start a **** fight. I certainly would not be telling them you did it yourself. When you next change the oil make sure a genuine goes on no matter who changes it.