How long did your brakes last ?

[EYY]

I hate the idea of machining rotors. The rotor is a massive heat sink. Even a small skim from the surface of each side is a lot of material being removed so the rotor isn’t able to dissipate heat as well.

If they’re bad enough to need machining, then they should be replaced imo. If there’s no shudder and they’re within wear limits, just replace the pads.

 

[426Cuda]

I hate the idea of machining rotors. The rotor is a massive heat sink. Even a small skim from the surface of each side is a lot of material being removed so the rotor isn’t able to dissipate heat as well.

If they’re bad enough to need machining, then they should be replaced imo. If there’s no shudder and they’re within wear limits, just replace the pads.

Yeah I'm a bit the same. I also hate too much pedal travel. I just replace the rotors rather than machining. But, it's costly... If the pads are the same compound, just replacing pads can work ok. Problem is, if the new pads are different, they will never bed to a smooth surface that was bedded to a different compound. The minor reduction in heat sink performance after a machine, is less of an issue from a braking perspective than pads that won't bight.

 

[Ron Burgundy]

The pads I am intending to put on are more agressive than the stock ones...so I think it will be fine.

The front are Bendix Police that I ordered from the US and the rear one are Bendix ultimate...

http://www.hendonpub.com/police_fleet_manager/articles/2014/0708/bendix_police_brakes

 

[panhead]

Depends on where you live - hilly or flat

How you drive - hard or easy

The type of pad material

I haven't change a set of pads in a car in over a decade but just taking them for a run to the baker's to buy scones doesn't cause much wear.

I'd be happy enough with 30k


.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

Ron, Pads start at around 10mm typically, and if you have 4-5mm left, I'm guessing you'll clock up 50,000kms before they have to be done. It's ok to have 1mm of pad when you change them. and I usually replace the rotors at the same time as pads, but I'm not ripping through pads like a few here have quoted. I got 60,000 out of the E3s first set of pads and rotors before changing them out.

 

[Immortality]

Clearly I DON'T drive hard enough....

If the rotors aren't badly grooved than I wouldn't machine bearing in mind that it will take a bit longer to bed in the new pads on a used rotor but no big deal. If it's grooved badly enough to need machining than new rotors are probably a better option.

 

[ol smokey]

I haven't change a set of pads in a car in over a decade but just taking them for a run to the baker's to buy scones doesn't cause much wear

If the scones are stale enough you can use them for brake pads. Much cheaper than the real thing and they smell nice under heavy braking.

 

[EYY]

Changing compounds etc is no issue whatsoever. The new pads will wear to the pattern of the rotor not long after initial break in providing full surface contact.

 

[07GTS]

machining is more based on the pad material as every pad leaves a coating of itself on the disk if u then swap pads u change the material left on the disk which may not suit the new pad, machining takes the old pad material off the disk and squares it up so the new pads can bed in to them properly, if u are using the same pad again then it is not needed unless the disk surface has issues

 

[Adza75]

Geeez, my Redline is up to 71,000km and my pads are still original, still have meat left on them. Clearly I've been driving like my father.