Permanently mounting a trickle charger in a VF sedan

[Skylarking]

If only we could replace the vehicles battery and smart charging system for something much longer lasting than lead/acid, we'd not have to worry about such trivialities related to trickle chargers. Park car and a few years later jump in and she fires up without (electrical) issue

Pity 12V 100Ah LTO batteries are so much more expensive

 

[Big Red VF-SII Go-kart]

If only we could replace the vehicles battery and smart charging system for something much longer lasting than lead/acid, we'd not have to worry about such trivialities related to trickle chargers. Park car and a few years later jump in and she fires up without (electrical) issue

Pity 12V 100Ah LTO batteries are so much more expensive

Just one critical problem you've overlooked there: dry starting the car after an extended standing period: chances are, she won't fire first off!
Dad taught me about the damage that dry starting causes when cars have been left sitting for weeks and months, and no, "no such thing as sticky oil!" On holidays I have always arranged to have my cars, whichever one they have been over the many years, regularly driven by friends of the techie from the service centre on weekends.

 

[Skylarking]

Just one critical problem you've overlooked there: dry starting the car after an extended standing period: chances are, she won't fire first off!
Dad taught me about the damage that dry starting causes when cars have been left sitting for weeks and months, and no, "no such thing as sticky oil!" On holidays I have always arranged to have my cars, whichever one they have been over the many years, regularly driven by friends of the techie from the service centre on weekends.

Nope, I didn’t over look “dry start“ issues which is why I specifically said “jump in and she fires up without (electrical) issue“

It’s true that fuel may turn to jelly or the pump may have dried out and seized, the lifters bled down, no oil on the cylinder walls, top half of the diff crown wheel is rusted, the brake rotors are seized to the pads , the clutch is stuck to the flywheel, tyres are no longer “round”... and more...

It can be any manner of issues with a cars left in an unprepared state for long storage. But if the manufacturers used a LTO battery and LTO capable charging system, the battery wouldn’t be an issue of concern one is what I meant

Which then brings up the issue discussed in other threads; how do people prepare their cars for storage periods of more than a month?

 

[VFSV6FORME]

Well put this way. I have a HQ Monro with a Strong 308 Engine built for street and Strip Drag racing, That engine was built last in 1975 by me. The Engine was good for 12.90 ET times on a quarter on street rubber. I start it ever months or so but if I have to leave it for a long time like 3 years (working overseas) the longest time that I left it I drain the Oil Replace the oil cold (no Choice in and out of both banks) start the car Normally by filling the holley carb, Electric Fuel pump, pump the peddle at least 5 to 6 time, wait 5 to 6 second, give the car about 10% of throttle then crank it and it starts under 3 seconds. I have had the car for 49 YEARS and have been starting it like this for at least 40 years. Out side this I have been sick (heart attack) left the car without starting for 8 months, drained the oil, change the oil, filled the oil, drained the oil again and filled the oil again via the other banks (Coat the Dry Roller Rockers with oil as the Solid lifter restrict oil upstairs) pump the peddle at least 5 to 6 time, wait 5 to 6 second to give the fuel vapor, give the car about 10% of throttle then crank it and it starts under 2 to 3 seconds.
Now I have Roller rockers upstairs and solid lifters. I bet you cant do this on a modern car today. Maybe one day I will take short Video on what the 2 inch exhaust pipe does to your hairs 1m away when you stand behind the car. LOL.LOL.

 

[Skylarking]

Yes please, photos and videos of you HQ

 

[scooter02]

yep thats a good design...any issues encountered like the cars electronics not liking these switch mode type chargers...i just replied to another forum user and said the same thing ..then found your post reply..

No, i haven't had any issues...the Victron gear is meant to be fairly good stuff, been using it for 4 years. Have there been problems switch mode type chargers?

 

[Skylarking]

... Have there been problems switch mode type chargers?

Generally speaking the downside of cheap Switch Mode Power Supplies, which are the guts of any charger, are that they can be electrically noisy. Such noise can in the worst case damage sensitive components connected to the charger. But generally this isn’t a big issue

The second problem with cheap SMPS is that they use cheap components within and run them at their limit. So it’s not unheard of to have electrolytic capacitors spectacularly fail some years down the track Again, nothing new here since when you buy cheap, generally you buy crap

But SMPS are much much smaller and lighter than the old big transformer type power supplies. Just look at today’s modern 5v2a wall warts and compare them to days of old

I haven’t heard that modern chargers cause issues with modern electrics within our cars

I still have an old battery charger with a biggish transformer within as it’s great for shocking old NiCd batteries back to life or charging dead lead acid batteries. no smarts and can’t handle float charging so can’t leave that one connected long term at a car. Have other chargers for float charge duties but must get a one that can desulphate.

 

[Stroppy]

A mate of mine keeps his old HR charged via a solar panel on his garage roof outputting 12v which he bought at a camping store. He had a mate install an inline resister to stop overcharging and has a lead which goes through the driver's door window and into the cigarette lighter plug. Crazy set up but it works. He lives in Qld. I'll ask him to email pictures if he can be arsed to do it.

 

[Skylarking]

Ok, it’s a bi5 of a thread dig and it’s also time I pulled my finger out and finally hard wire the ctek battery charger to my car but I hope to do it a little differently…

The following electronic trailer braking post gave me some thoughts but has raised some questions which I hope the forum members can help with.

Next to the battery in the VF trailer light loom is a 2 pin connector which has the blue wire for the trailer brakes and the brake light signal for the controller. I havent been able to source the mating connector so may have to cut it off and use my own connector. Does anyone know where the connector could be purchased?

I expect that I can use the service brake control pin and earth pins on the female connector and wire up a ctek connector to a male 7 pin plug. Then it should just be a matter of plugging in the home made ctek to 7 pin trailer adapter when charging the battery. This should be possible as I already have a tow bar and won’t ever be using the trailer service brakes…

The only question is what else, if anything, is connected to the trailer loom purple service brake wire (5) going to the above mentioned plug next to the battery, what current is is designed to handle and whether this is equal to or greater to the ctek’s 5A… . A related question is where the trailer earth connector is actually bolted/connected and what current it can cope with.

A circuit diagram and layout/routing diagram for the VF trailer wiring could be helpful in answering these questions. Does anyone have access to such and can post as the VF workshop manual PDF is a little deficient on this front and doesn’t even show enough detail on page 8892.

Also, does anyone know here one can get the male connector for this accessory trailer brake harness (part number?) as that’s a part I haven’t got and such would also helpful in making it idiot proof and fully reversible.

As is I have the 7 pin plug

https://www.jaycar.com.au/flat-7-pin-line-plug/p/PP2050?

I have the ctek battery charger eyelet terminals

https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-...erminals-56-260/p/A9337381?kwSearch=terminals

and I have some misc bits for the in boot side, just not the factory male connector.

Help appreciated.

 

[Skylarking]

Ok, answering some questions myself… a 16 gauge wire (1.3 mm diameter) seems to be standard trailer wire and can carry 15A so shouldn’t be an issue using it for charging… And whatever current is sent to trailer mus5 be able to be returned so ten earth should also cope, presumably with a higher current as someone should be able to brake and turn at the same time (electric brakes on, brake lamps on and indicator on, off, on, off ).

https://www.elecbrakes.com/blog/can-standard-trailer-wiring-power-electric-brakes/

So now it’s ideal just to see a wiring diagram to dot the i’s and cross the t’s as well as getting the male connector part number. Hope someone can help with that