Rear wheel bearing shot

[losh1971]

Those axle nuts are staked, and done up to 350Nm. Plus they’ll more than likely be rusted on too.

Those nuts are not hard to get off if you have a decent gun. I helped do the job at home and paid a lot more than needed. If I ever do another I will pull the knuckle and replace the lot with a SH unit from the wreckers. We did it the hard way, which requires destroying the bearing using a puller and hammer.
Easier way is to pull the shaft and hub together belt the shaft out with a big hammer and drop the knuckle off to have a new bearing fitted if wanting to go that way. Might even only be a few dollars more to do as you say and drop the shaft off still attached to the knuckle.

 

[greenacc]

Those axle nuts are staked, and done up to 350Nm. Plus they’ll more than likely be rusted on too.

That’s not a job I’d want to do even with the proper tools. When I replaced my diff, I removed the knuckle with the axle attached, as there was no way in hell I was gonna get that nut off.

Given the size of the job, I wouldnt replace with anything but genuine.

Actually getting those nuts off isn't all that difficult. That's the easy part of the job. But Mucking around lining up the suspension arms and pressing the bearing and hub in and out is a different story. You need proper quality sockets and breaker bar and a strong steel pipe.

 

[losh1971]

Actually getting those nuts off isn't all that difficult. That's the easy part of the job. But Mucking around lining up the suspension arms and pressing the bearing and hub in and out is a different story. You need proper quality sockets and breaker bar and a strong steel pipe.

If you destroy the old bearing it's not too hard to press the rest of the bearing out. The hard part is the small race, which stays attached hard against the hub face. I nearly succeeded but I knicked the hub shaft trying to open up the race enough to get it to slide off. Pressing the bearing on is not too difficult. But if you don't separate the hub and bearing then it becomes a job for a balancing shop or some place who have the right jig to remove the bearing with the backing plate still attached to the knuckle.

 

[goony]

Thanks for the advice, found a complete hub which is on it's way from Adelaide for less than $200 incl freight to Canberra.

Pending arrival etc would recommend JCS Parts to everyone.

Now to find out how kindly that Hub nut is going to treat me, think I'll give it a few squirts with with WD...

 

[losh1971]

That hub nut shouldn't be hard to get off. Do you have a rattle gun? The hard part is belting out the axle shaft.

 

[greenacc]

Thanks for the advice, found a complete hub which is on it's way from Adelaide for less than $200 incl freight to Canberra.

Pending arrival etc would recommend JCS Parts to everyone.

Now to find out how kindly that Hub nut is going to treat me, think I'll give it a few squirts with with WD...

A good socket 36mm? And a long strong bar around 1metre long is all I needed. Took 10 seconds to loosen it.

 

[RevNev]

Whilst we're discussing the painfulness of working with the VE/VF rear hubs and bearings, it may be of interest to some knowing that if you need to change a wheel stud, you can do so by removing the hand brake shoe and drilling a hole in the backing plate between the caliper mounting lugs to pass the stud through without disassembling the entire hub and bearing system. You then just silicon a rubber grommet in the backing plate hole!

 

[Pazzu]

Whilst we're discussing the painfulness of working with the VE/VF rear hubs and bearings, it may be of interest to some knowing that if you need to change a wheel stud, you can do so by removing the hand brake shoe and drilling a hole in the backing plate between the caliper mounting lugs to pass the stud through without disassembling the entire hub and bearing system. You then just silicon a rubber grommet in the backing plate hole!

You are a godsend.... Thanks!

 

[goony]

Thanks for the advice everyone, my apologies- I'm late closing this one out.

The rear hub wasn't as scary as it could have been.

The SH hub arrived complete with hand brake shoes and with a bit of a clean was ready to go.

Hub nut broken with 3/4" bar and a bit over 1 metre of sprinkler range pipe offcut. Done and dusted.

Driveshaft/hub separated pretty kindly with el cheapo '2 jaw puller' ... seems a couple of doses of WD assisted.

Re-install was fun jinning around with the bolts- the shop manual can be thrown away at this point, as the geometry of the bottom bolts is a shitefight and the shop manual contains error(s) of which the detail has escaped me.

Interesting twist was the wheel aligner found the front drivers bearing was also run but not showing symptoms yet on 21st Dec.

I was lucky to pick up another SH hub locally and an uneventful change out that doesn't affect alignment sorted the night of 23rd in time for planned trip the next day.

Hopefully the rear end impact doesn't travel up the rear axel.

Cheers for the input.

 

[shane_3800]

Thanks for the advice everyone, my apologies- I'm late closing this one out.

The rear hub wasn't as scary as it could have been.

The SH hub arrived complete with hand brake shoes and with a bit of a clean was ready to go.

Hub nut broken with 3/4" bar and a bit over 1 metre of sprinkler range pipe offcut. Done and dusted.

Driveshaft/hub separated pretty kindly with el cheapo '2 jaw puller' ... seems a couple of doses of WD assisted.

Re-install was fun jinning around with the bolts- the shop manual can be thrown away at this point, as the geometry of the bottom bolts is a shitefight and the shop manual contains error(s) of which the detail has escaped me.

Interesting twist was the wheel aligner found the front drivers bearing was also run but not showing symptoms yet on 21st Dec.

I was lucky to pick up another SH hub locally and an uneventful change out that doesn't affect alignment sorted the night of 23rd in time for planned trip the next day.

Hopefully the rear end impact doesn't travel up the rear axel.

Cheers for the input.

I highly doubt it would get to the diff.
Only in very big hits, and you get bearing noise on the side of the diff.

I missed this thread, I started off as an apprentice in a suspension shop, about 30% of our work was for panel shops, and other workshops that weren't equipped for the job.
I've done hundreds of these rear ends haha, mostly guys thinking they're DK.