Sandst4rm's VP Ute Resto Thread

[Sandst4rm]

Whatever they use to trigger the little copper contacts around the column behind the steering wheel, theres nothing to touch them on the shaft.
Looks like they are for the indicator auto off or something.

I don't know much about VN compared to VT so i wouldn't know if something is missing

 

[losh1971]

There should be a copper ring attached to the underside of the steering wheel. IIRC the cancelling cam is separate. Been a while since I pulled the VP steering wheel I had on my VR.

 

[Sandst4rm]

Plan update:

I am not going to go with the alloy radiator anymore because I'm fairly sure it doesn't come with a trans cooler built in.
Not going to get an aftermarket cooler as well as a 400 dollar radiator, i might get a cooler at some point later but they should include it in the radiator for the price. Also you never know if the welds are going to last.
At least with a cheaper OE plastic one (new) the plastic itself isn't likely to be the failure point and I can buy 2 of them for the price of 1 alloy rad.

Still got to get the new windscreen as well.

Waiting on these damn parts is sending me insane I want to put the heads on!!

 

[J_D 2.0]

Plan update:

I am not going to go with the alloy radiator anymore because I'm fairly sure it doesn't come with a trans cooler built in.
Not going to get an aftermarket cooler as well as a 400 dollar radiator, i might get a cooler at some point later but they should include it in the radiator for the price. Also you never know if the welds are going to last.
At least with a cheaper OE plastic one (new) the plastic itself isn't likely to be the failure point and I can buy 2 of them for the price of 1 alloy rad.

Still got to get the new windscreen as well.

Waiting on these damn parts is sending me insane I want to put the heads on!!

If you were going to buy a $400 alloy radiator odds on it wouldn’t have fit straight out of the box. I bought a cheapy alloy radiator for the SSV and none of the various mount points were in the right spot and the radiator neck wasn’t the correct size for a recovery type cap so I had to add a seperate overflow tank.

If I was to do it again I’d either spend the $1200 for a proper good quality alloy radiator (PWR, etc) or just use a plastic radiator. Cheap alloy radiators aren’t worth the hassle as the Chinese ability to read measurements is directly related to how well your paying them!

 

[Hole Denn]

At least with a cheaper OE plastic one (new) the plastic itself isn't likely to be the failure point and I can buy 2 of them for the price of 1 alloy rad.

the seal from plastic side tanks IS the failure point, that"s where they leak from, very common

 

[Sandst4rm]

I am aware because my old radiator has a split in the plastic on account that it is ancient. (original)

Reason why it's so common is because they're all running 20+ years old plastic

 

[Hole Denn]

it happens long before + 20 years
its the seal/adhesive breaking down most times, not the plastic

 

[J_D 2.0]

it happens long before + 20 years
its the seal/adhesive breaking down most times, not the plastic

The time between failures is highly dependent on how the car is driven (city or highway). My old 2009 SV6 was still on its factory radiator when I got rid of it a few months ago with 320,000kms on the clock as it did mostly highway driving.

On the other hand the radiator in the 2008 Subaru Tribeca my ex had failed with only 180,000kms on the clock about five years ago as it was a city car from the middle of Brisbane. Heat kills radiators and stop start traffic amps up the heat soak massively.

 

[Hole Denn]

The time between failures is highly dependent on how the car is driven (city or highway). My old 2009 SV6 was still on its factory radiator when I got rid of it a few months ago with 320,000kms on the clock as it did mostly highway driving.

Your VE was not 30 years old = VP but yes higher air speed on highway does help cooling.
however I would say correct coolant and flush maintenance more so important due too the corrosive factor.

On the other hand the radiator in the 2008 Subaru Tribeca my ex had failed with only 180,000kms on the clock about five years ago as it was a city car from the middle of Brisbane. Heat kills radiators and stop start traffic amps up the heat soak massively.

Again 2008 versues 1993 wear and tear and also if 1993 radiator was left dry/old coolant and not drivin for extended periods.
A lot of non functioning properly thermo fans and high temp factory settings didn"t help radiators in your suggested conditions and lets not forget metallurgy/electrolysis and/with hard water/corrosive coolant contents.

 

[Sandst4rm]

The time between failures is highly dependent on how the car is driven (city or highway). My old 2009 SV6 was still on its factory radiator when I got rid of it a few months ago with 320,000kms on the clock as it did mostly highway driving.

On the other hand the radiator in the 2008 Subaru Tribeca my ex had failed with only 180,000kms on the clock about five years ago as it was a city car from the middle of Brisbane. Heat kills radiators and stop start traffic amps up the heat soak massively.

Was that subie radiator failure after 3 head gaskets or 5?