Cheap6
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Sorry but I meant Ohmeter rather than ammeter - tired brain.
The only requirement for a multimeter is that the DC impedence must be at least 10M Ohms. For the test light, it must not draw more than 300mA.
The problem solving flow chart on the second of the scanned pages should be straightforward. The PCM terminal numbers are cast into the plastic of the terminal wiring connectors if that is an issue.
This is from Dr Bob's site which may also help:
http://www.memcals.com/pdf/VRV8 Wiring Diagram.pdf
From that the white/black wire is the power to the Hall sensor, the light blue/white wire is the earth for the sensor and the grey/red wire is the signal wire.
Not in the flow chart is how to test the sensor. To test the sensor, ignition on, leave the plugs connected but roll back the boot on the 6 pin connector to the ignition module to access the wire terminals. Using dressmaker's pins makes it easier to connect to the terminals but don't let two of teh touch while connected to the terminals.
A voltmeter should read battery voltage (~12V) when connected between w/b terminal at the module and an external earth (a strut tower stud is convenient), and also when earthed through the terminal for the lb/w wire. The voltmeter connected across the signal wire and an external earth should change from ~12V to zero volts as the engine/sensor is rotated. Rotating the engine by hand is better as the update rate of a digital voltmeter makes it harder to see the voltage change if the engine is being cranked on the starter.
I wouldn't pay $500 for a module either, just use used parts and be sure of the diagnosis through systematic testing.
The only requirement for a multimeter is that the DC impedence must be at least 10M Ohms. For the test light, it must not draw more than 300mA.
The problem solving flow chart on the second of the scanned pages should be straightforward. The PCM terminal numbers are cast into the plastic of the terminal wiring connectors if that is an issue.
This is from Dr Bob's site which may also help:
http://www.memcals.com/pdf/VRV8 Wiring Diagram.pdf
From that the white/black wire is the power to the Hall sensor, the light blue/white wire is the earth for the sensor and the grey/red wire is the signal wire.
Not in the flow chart is how to test the sensor. To test the sensor, ignition on, leave the plugs connected but roll back the boot on the 6 pin connector to the ignition module to access the wire terminals. Using dressmaker's pins makes it easier to connect to the terminals but don't let two of teh touch while connected to the terminals.
A voltmeter should read battery voltage (~12V) when connected between w/b terminal at the module and an external earth (a strut tower stud is convenient), and also when earthed through the terminal for the lb/w wire. The voltmeter connected across the signal wire and an external earth should change from ~12V to zero volts as the engine/sensor is rotated. Rotating the engine by hand is better as the update rate of a digital voltmeter makes it harder to see the voltage change if the engine is being cranked on the starter.
I wouldn't pay $500 for a module either, just use used parts and be sure of the diagnosis through systematic testing.
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I'd recommend to anyone who has a 5 litre EFI VR to grab yourself a copy. Ive got a mate comming over today or tommorow who's sparky'ish