Vs Commodore Intermittent Starting

[amshaw]

I had a look under the steering colum and the black termnal for getting the codes was there, I guess I got the right one , its the same as in the scan on this thread.

When I get a chance I will do the whole "check the code's" thing. With a bit of luck I will get a code 12 !

Regards
Andrew

 

[fred]

Another way of undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt (on many vehicles) is to use a socket (preferably an impact socket) on a bar long enough to rest on the chassis member, remove the fuel pump relay to stop the motor starting and give the starter a flick for a fraction of a second. Should undo the bolt no worries.
Otherwise, as mentioned a rattle gun is the go (especially for tightening bolt).

Cheers All

fred

 

[OSL-060]

QUOTE Another way of undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt (on many vehicles) is to use a socket (preferably an impact socket) on a bar long enough to rest on the chassis member, remove the fuel pump relay to stop the motor starting and give the starter a flick for a fraction of a second. Should undo the bolt no worries.

That's how I got mine Garth and I discussed adding this to our CAS How To document and thought againest it. Don't get me wrong though, when done right it works a treat and it's a great piece of advice as not many people have a rattle gun in the shed.

If you don't have a breaker bar long enough you can also just sit something heavy under the end of the bar as a wedge of sorts. I used a nice big rock Captain Dodgy bush mechanic.

Jake.

 

[grover]

yeah knew about the taking the starter motor out trick jake[couldnt be bothered frigging around that much],,and my vr is auto.the balancer shouldnt be on too tight fred,the outer rim worked fine for me,if the balancer comes apart it must be about rooted anyway.you will probably notice theres not alot of room behind the balancer anyway.its the method that a couple of mates who do them all the time in their line of work use-no probs apparently.

 

[amshaw]

I did the code check today and got a code 12, good news but at least I know what to do next time, thankyou to those who helped out its way to easy.

Regards
Andrew

 

[grover]

helpful little website and people here andrew.

 

[amshaw]

For shore, I had a look at other group's and all I found was dreamers & basic wankers !! But here everybody are more than happy tp help and Ive learned heaps already !!

Andrew

 

[joem]

rehashing old thread

This has been a great thread. No mention however of the "How to.." section it spoke of, does anyone know if this exists some where on this forum.

A question about this practise of removing the harmonic balancer, does the serpentine belt also need to be removed or is it unaffected by the balancer being removed.
Cheers
Joe

 

[Crazy_C]

I'm having the same issue with my VS not wanting to start over when the engine's hot. If I connect jump leads to it however, or when it's cold, it starts perfectly fine.

Could this be the CAS playing up? I'll need to try the water on it trick though and see what happens with that.

 

[Brett_jjj]

I'm having the same issue with my VS not wanting to start over when the engine's hot. If I connect jump leads to it however, or when it's cold, it starts perfectly fine.

Could this be the CAS playing up? I'll need to try the water on it trick though and see what happens with that.

Yes,its a big chance that the CAS is faulty.Try to fit a genuine CAS,they last a lot longer than some of the cheaper ones.I just fitted one on my VS after 6 years,it was a genuine holden CAS that I removed,but im pretty sure it wasnt the CAS that was causing the problem,it was the 2 bolts that hold the CAS on,they had come loose and the CAS was moving around,causing error code 47 to set every now and then,whoever fitted the CAS before I got the car ,didnt use loctite on the 2 bolts...I fitted the new CAS that Id bought from holden anyway,even though the old one might have still been ok,I put loctite on the 2 bolts like the workshop manual suggests,and have not had the error code back since...
I paid $120 for a genuine holden CAS,I could have got one online for $40-$50 ,but other people I know who have bought cheaper CAS's before have had them fail in 2 years or less,and if that happens and it needs to be replaced again,then it really works out to be around the same price as a genuine one anyway,(thats if you can fit it yourself,It works out to be even more expensive if you gotta pay to have it fitted),so I reckon why not just go genuine first up and save all the hassle..