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VY S2 HBD LS1 AUTO BERLINA Serious idle issue and false MIL

TazzI

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Oh and forgot to mention that I had already pulled to TB off and cleaned it all out.
Had a bit of **** in it but not to much.
The IAC Valve had a bit of **** on the pintle also so cleaned that to
The PCV hose is rock solid. As soon as it's touched it will go to ****.
I'm going to be plugging up the system and putting some low pressure in there and spray with soapy water to check for air leaks.
Also going to hook up my smoker to it and check that way to.

Will keep all you guys informed. Because there is nothing worse then finally finding a post that is EXACTLY the same issue you are having and then you get 10 pages in and find out that the last post says.
"PROBLEM Sorted. Thats to all for the advice and help. So glad that's done now. CHEERS"
AND THEY DONT POST UP THE SOLUTION OR THE REAL ISSUE OR THE END RESULT.
Sooooo hate That.

Well that's my wine done.

Pretty much explains every thread!:beer chug:
 

Towcar

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Oh and forgot to mention that I had already pulled to TB off and cleaned it all out.
Had a bit of **** in it but not to much.
The IAC Valve had a bit of **** on the pintle also so cleaned that to
The PCV hose is rock solid. As soon as it's touched it will go to ****.
I'm going to be plugging up the system and putting some low pressure in there and spray with soapy water to check for air leaks.
Also going to hook up my smoker to it and check that way to.

Will keep all you guys informed. Because there is nothing worse then finally finding a post that is EXACTLY the same issue you are having and then you get 10 pages in and find out that the last post says.
"PROBLEM Sorted. Thats to all for the advice and help. So glad that's done now. CHEERS"
AND THEY DONT POST UP THE SOLUTION OR THE REAL ISSUE OR THE END RESULT.
Sooooo hate That.

Well that's my wine done.

I definitely try and come back with my own answers. Nothing more frustrating than being told to search for it, finding the thread then seeing 20 different things to try but the OP not telling anyone what worked, seems a little one sided to do so I try not to!
 

CommodoreHero

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When a car is warming up it runs in open loop mode, which means it doesn't use feedback from sensors but rather from predefined settings in the computer. Once it's warm it switches to closed loop where it uses sensor feedback to run smoothly. I'd suspect you have a sensor problem.

So maybe your temp sensor is stuffed and your car doesn't know what mode it's in. I'd be testing temp sensor and O2 sensors.

Have you ever successfully got codes from your VY using the gear you're using? There must be a code stored in there!!!

Hello franklinfrog

Yes I have successfully gotten codes from my VY using the gear I have.

I tested my leads as suggested by someone else.
I have 10mm TOP GUN Leads and all but 1 had a resistance between 300-400. The other has around 900. I changed that lead and it's still there.
I cannot find any vacuum leaks. And thought it might be in sine of the car so I blocked the vacuum line going through the firewall with no change.

I have tried the soapy water trick. The throttle body cleaner trick and I am now making up a jig to smoke test it.

Ps. I have changed my pkugs aswell as tested the coils. The coil wiring. I have rebuilt the injectors and cleaned them out aswell as testing all the injector wiring with an LED tester.

I took the IAC Valve out to clean it and got my wife to cycle the ignition so I could extend it to clean it properly and then I put it back together. Then my wife had a brain far and turned the ignition key and the IAC Valve pintle and spring went bye bye. I found the pintle but not the spring. But I have managed to find a spring to replace it with.

And after all of that it's still the same.

What I am going to do it pull off injector and sensor wires 1 by 1 and then cycle the ignition and then test it for faults.

So I will find out wether or not it's a sensor or the BCM.
 

CommodoreHero

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I think I got it sussed

Hello franklinfrog

Yes I have successfully gotten codes from my VY using the gear I have.

I tested my leads as suggested by someone else.
I have 10mm TOP GUN Leads and all but 1 had a resistance between 300-400. The other has around 900. I changed that lead and it's still there.
I cannot find any vacuum leaks. And thought it might be in sine of the car so I blocked the vacuum line going through the firewall with no change.

I have tried the soapy water trick. The throttle body cleaner trick and I am now making up a jig to smoke test it.

Ps. I have changed my pkugs aswell as tested the coils. The coil wiring. I have rebuilt the injectors and cleaned them out aswell as testing all the injector wiring with an LED tester.

I took the IAC Valve out to clean it and got my wife to cycle the ignition so I could extend it to clean it properly and then I put it back together. Then my wife had a brain far and turned the ignition key and the IAC Valve pintle and spring went bye bye. I found the pintle but not the spring. But I have managed to find a spring to replace it with.

And after all of that it's still the same.

What I am going to do it pull off injector and sensor wires 1 by 1 and then cycle the ignition and then test it for faults.

So I will find out wether or not it's a sensor or the BCM.



So I have bought a notepad and used the spring that binds all the pages together as the spring for the IAC Valve and that seems to have fixed the issue.wuth that.

But still having the issues of missing and idling on in Nuttall but slowing down to the lights it almost stalls.

Cant figure it out.

I'm gunna test the leads again when there hot and see if that shows anything.
Next I will out up a post of everything that was happening aswell as everything I have tried.
 

Towcar

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My partners car (AU falcon) that issue was caused by the coil pack being faulty.

Different car but worth checking out.
 

CommodoreHero

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THE ANSWER IS
Fuel Filter.
After I tested EVERY THING it turned out to be the fuel filter.
Partially blocked filter ment lower fuel pressure which ment because the fuel line feeds from the pass anger side it had lower pressure then the right side so was making the left side lean out which showed a lower voltage from the O2 sensors also raising the STFT and the LTFT. So it was lengthening the fuel injector pulse width letting more fuel in and in turn making a rich environment making the O2 sensors lean back causing a lean then rich then lean you get the idea.

But because it took so long to diagnose I have buggered an o2 sensor.
B1S1 Comes up to 0.450v nice and quick but B2S1 hoes quick up till 0.300v and struggles to hit 0.350v
I hope my events will help someone else out.

LESS ON LEARNT

It doesn't matter how big of an issue you have do not ignore the little things.

I have learnt so much over the last few weeks that I have the knowledge to help others out so ask away.
I won't be closing this post and will let it get rebirthed at anytime

Cheers to everyone for your help

CommodoreHero
 
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