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VY Stalls under Deceleration only

fugly59

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Thanks.
I will try anything at the moment. I'll have to wait till the weekend again to borrow the scan tool.
I am sure I have done something wrong. Could be an injector seal or anything. But why does it work ok with MAF sensor disconnected?
I will get to the bottom of it one way or another. Maybe next year.
Thanks again.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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Someone else has idle problems after replacing the inlet Manifold, don't know why I've done mine and its fine, probably better to get it looked at. Removing the MAF plug probably puts the ECU into override and just sets the fuel and air as it sees fit. Spray all your contacts with contact cleaner and make sure they are a tight fit. MAF, TPS, IAC and O2 sensors work together.
 

Slowvxss

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Try adjusting your throttle stop screw a little bit at a time, if you have a scan tool to check IAC steps it should be set around 30 steps when the engine is at running temp.

I had the same problem on my old vt it kept stalling coming to stops, I adjusted the above and all was good.
 

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I would say as you removed the wire plugs to replace the gaskets you will have a bad connector on your TPS, remove and clean and close the female connectors a little so they are nice and tight. You can do it on the other 2 as well.
 

fugly59

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Try adjusting your throttle stop screw a little bit at a time, if you have a scan tool to check IAC steps it should be set around 30 steps when the engine is at running temp.

Sorry, when you say adjust the throttle screw 'a little bit at a time', do you mean 1/16th of a turn or more like 1/2 a turn?
I can't get hold of a scan tool this weekend so I will try without it for now.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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Sorry, when you say adjust the throttle screw 'a little bit at a time', do you mean 1/16th of a turn or more like 1/2 a turn?
I can't get hold of a scan tool this weekend so I will try without it for now.
Wouldn't be touching any idle screw that's what's the IAC built for moving this screw misses with the ECU, When you cleaned the throttle body did you remove the IAC to clean out the carbon in the IAC housing to make sure its not blocked, like I said All those wire harnesses may not have good contact any loose fit or dirty connecters will send wrong messages to your computer, check your injectors for leakages too.
 

Utel67

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Just leave it until you can get a scan tool to check what the IAC steps are reading.
 

fugly59

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Just leave it until you can get a scan tool to check what the IAC steps are reading.

OK.
I can't decide whether I'm extremely happy or just a complete idiot.
I'll go with the happy, this has just been messing with my head for too long.
I have found the problem.
I did everything that was suggested including touching up the electrical connections, although I didn't end up touching the idle stop. I then took it for another drive. It was actually getting worse. It was stalling cruising all the time now, not just down hill. The only way that it wouldn't stop was if I put it in second gear. Just coincidence probably but it worked till I got back home. I thought that it had to be a split in a hose that was getting bigger.
I finally found it, a split in the main concertina hose between the MAF sensor & the throttle body. It was on a seam on the underside, not visible from the top. When I took it off & turned it around, it wasn't really visible then either. Had to pull it apart to make it show up. I temporarily have taped it up with some gaffer tape. Runs like a dream, looks awful.
So, just a word to say thank you to everyone for their suggestions & ideas. I also hope that this helps somebody else one day.
Cheers Everyone
 

Utel67

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Well done mate glad you got it sorted.
 

henstepper

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Man I have had rough idle issues and splutter under acceleration and braking for a while. I have done pretty much everything To try and see the issue. Spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter etc etc. Might be worth looking into this myself to see if I have the same issue.
 
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