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Wireless Charger upgrade/replace old factory unit with pics

kwhelan

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found this for those who want to go factory standard
this is a straight GM OEM replacement for the old unit to make it modern phone compatible

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163237538090?hash=item2601b7292a:g:9DkAAOSw3AFbcev3&_trksid=p5731.m3795


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kwhelan

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making some progress on replacement , this is a 5v unit from jaycar and the original unit has 12v feed,
so trying to find a 5v point on the existing board
quickest hack is just to feed the usb cable thru into armrest for power feed but that ties up one of the usb ports and attach the entire new unit in place of the factory unit, circle won't fill the original hole exactly but it is unseen behind the rubber phone boot anyway
or mount this new unit inside the factory unit and refit the factory unit in place so everything looks as factory intended
 

stooge

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so trying to find a 5v point on the existing board

you could build a simple 12v to 5v circuit with a couple of components but this module will achieve 12v to 5v without much effort needed



if you want to build the stepdown circuit yourself look at the LM2678T-5
it will give you 5v out from 8v~40v in but that wire in module above is probably the easiest way.
 
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stooge

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yeah thanks, the existing usb ports in armrest barely 100mm away must have 5v feed to be standard usb so a simple wire tap would be easier,just means I would have to remove more of the central tunnel to get to the wires, A cheap usb y-split cable would work too and only couple of dollars.

just be careful if you tap into the usb power lines in the console to make sure you do not overload the rated current for the usb of the headunit.
if you overload it you will blow the onboard fuse for the usb port which will stop the port working and the only way to fix it will be at the component level with a microscope or the silverbox will need to be replaced.
if you do tap into the usb lines just be mindful what you have in the usb port and the charge module at the same time because your powertech charger pulls 2.0A~2.5A and the mylink usb port will more than likely be rated at a max of 2.0A

if i was doing this mod i would not tap into the mylinks usb lines for power i would make the whole charging unit independent of the mylink with its own power source.
i would open the powertech charge pad you have and remove the electronics and coil and i would open the vehicle charge module and remove its electronics then retrofit the powertech electronics into the charge module for the vehicle.
the 12v to 5v module looks like it would also fit inside the vehicles charge module.

it would basically leave the vehicles charge module looking like stock with 2 wires to connect to the vehicle.
one to IGN switched 12v+ and the other to GND
 
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kwhelan

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thanks yes I wouldn't risk playing with the radio usb ports, I pulled the rear seat usb out and they are actually fed by 12v so that was no help anyway, there must be some sort of resistor in the actual plug module to drop the usb ports down to 5v but its hidden inside the plug itself. They have there own fuse by the way.

Have been unable to find any 5v power source on the board of the existing wireless module which is frustrating.
The board is fed by 3 wires 12v, earth and 12v accessory

I realised the jaycar unit I have supports faster charges if fed by 9v not 5v so I figured it was safe to wire it straight to the 12v feed and it turns on but won't charge which I suspect is an overload protection type issue built in to the new chargepad. As soon as I return to 5v or 9v power supply it starts working again perfectly.

The jaycar unit once dismantled fitted perfectly inside the existing housing but I was trying to leave the original board installed as well so I did trim the 2nd un-needed usb-c port from one end of the new board and remove/trim the usb cable feed to make it bend tighter.


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kwhelan

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from the service manual, have added colours and note fuse 26 and 36
 

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87VLCALAIS

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Probably not the cheapest up front solution but after all the shagging around may be not so expensive after all, I think I'd just go for the the updated GM unit. It will fit straight in and should be plug and play.
 
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