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Vyuteman

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Hi guys
I own a 2009 VE international wagon,
While driving a few weeks back i noticed a slight noise coming from the front left of the car and after taking it to the mechanics today he has informed me that i need a new L/Hand cat.
Im not super finanical atm with my 4x4 being rego'd and i have a bit of can do attitude so i am i thinking if i could do it myself?
How hard is it?
 

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greenacc

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The bolts on the cat flanges can be very bloody tight.... but if you have a heat source or are lucky and can loosen them then it's straight forward. Use the proper gaskets and sealants so it doesn't leak.
 

Vyuteman

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The bolts on the cat flanges can be very bloody tight.... but if you have a heat source or are lucky and can loosen them then it's straight forward. Use the proper gaskets and sealants so it doesn't leak.
Thanks bud. Ill have a go on the weekend!
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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It's a lot easier to remove the manifold and cat as a complete unit, then unbolt the cat while it's out. The LHS is really easy to get to, shouldn't take any longer than an hour.
 

blackve76

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It's a lot easier to remove the manifold and cat as a complete unit, then unbolt the cat while it's out. The LHS is really easy to get to, shouldn't take any longer than an hour.

must be a trick, I put headers on mine and my god what a pain to get the mainfolds off.

Start sprayingWD40 etc on the bolts.
 

Xplaya

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I too heard that changing the manifold is a b##ch. Without a hoist sounds even harder lol
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Locktite. It's a bitch. The manifold bolts have thread locker on them and they are tight all the way out. The rear most ones are the biggest pain. Getting the manifold out is actually easy, just undoing the bolts is not.
 

AJS000

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Just curious with a Alloytec V6 does the manifold have to be replaced by extractors in order to replace the cats with say 200cpi cats?

Lot of places telling me i can't replace the cats without the extractors too.
 

vr304

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Just curious with a Alloytec V6 does the manifold have to be replaced by extractors in order to replace the cats with say 200cpi cats?

Lot of places telling me i can't replace the cats without the extractors too.
Would make sense to do extractors at the same time as hi flow cats wouldn’t it?
 

fix727

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Hi all, I have just replaced both catalytic converters on my car and found it a whole lot easier if you remove the windshield wipers, the black garnish panel as well.

To do this, remove the skivits around the fresh air intake for the interior air intake, you can change the pollen filter if fitted and clean out any debris and clean the drain hole at the same time.

To do this, With care working from the windshield, get your fingers between the glass and the garnish panel and lift the garnish panel gently up, you will feel where the clips are and with gentle force the panel will lift away, do this all the way along. It's best working from where the two panels join in the centre and working from there to the left hand side of the car.

After removing the garnish panel you can then remove the larger panel and again working from the windshield side you can feel where the clips are and again with care and mild force lift the panel away and off the clips. if you should break some they are not expensive only about .80c each plus GST and the other costs GM put on the part. I replaced all the clips and skivits for under $20.

I know this sounds like a lot of work but found this method really works especially getting to the rear nut on the left hand catalytic converter. As you don't have to use a wobbly to get around the plastic bulge from the fan assembly. You can now use a straight extension bar with a deep 15mm socket (single hex socket is best as this will grab all sides of the nut, Have seen too many rounded off nuts by using multi hex sockets) with ease and undo the rear nut. As one of the members mentioned spraying the nuts with WD40 or any other penetrating lubricant works well.

Put the car on ramps the night before and spray all the nuts and bolts from underneath that need to be undone including the nuts that hold the catalytic converter to the manifold. I hope this method helps others to replace their converters more easily without the frustrations of using a wobbly and getting better torque to getting the bolt undone.

cheers
Mike
 
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