ABS and Others

[gazzat]

Hello. newbie here. OK iv'e been reading up on the problems i have and they seem to be the problems with a lot of people. OK i will try and keep it as short as possible. i bought this omega a little while ago and now these problems have started. Firstly the alternator light came on , i pulled it off and apart and it looked really good, possibly not long ago been replaced, anyway i checked the battery and it is also looks like a brand new battery so i bought a reconditioned alternator seemed OK for a few weeks then the ABS and Traction stability control warning comes on and both ABS and Traction lights will not go out, when i go to into engineering mode and look at battery voltages it ranges from 14.2 up to as high as 16v (this is the recon alt). i checked both front wheels for bearing wobble and loose ball joints but everything is TIGHT.Now can and body help me with should there be any voltages at at at the plugs and does anyone know what resistance should be across the 2 pins on the wss. I have no voltage and no resistance i also did the same on the back wss, i unplugged the plug no voltages and no resistance, i took the wss right out of their hole and inspected them and cleaned them up , i put everything back together but errors are still showing on the instrument cluster. Thank you in advance for any help. Garry Sorry i forgot to mention that i have pulled every fuse from the battery compartment to inside the car to under the bonnet. i prefer to pull the fuses out rather then check them in situ because i have found that you can have a blown fuse that will test ok whilst in the holder but when you pull it out you can see its blown and i think that's because when you do a continuity test you can get a reading through another fuse or even a light bulb.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

What year VE?
Alternator might be ok but 16v is way to high so something is up there .
Need to know what year as different years have different specs for alternator output (some people on here don't like being told they are wrong)
ECU also controls the alternator and spikes in voltage can cause other systems to fail or shutdown so a lot of your problems could all be related to the ECU BCM Alternator and voltage spikes and actually nothing to do with the ABS or Traction Control
Have to fix the voltage issue first them work your way back down the codes.

 

[gazzat]

What year VE?
Alternator might be ok but 16v is way to high so something is up there .
Need to know what year as different years have different specs for alternator output (some people on here don't like being told they are wrong)
ECU also controls the alternator and spikes in voltage can cause other systems to fail or shutdown so a lot of your problems could all be related to the ECU BCM Alternator and voltage spikes and actually nothing to do with the ABS or Traction Control
Have to fix the voltage issue first them work your way back down the codes.

Hi, yeh it's a 2006. I am firstly going to attack this high voltage, as i say whilst i am in engineering mode and driving along i have noticed that the voltage fluctuates anywhere in between 14.4 up to 15.7-15.9 and sometime 16V there is no consistence, too add to the list of things already listed my cruise control does not work. I did think that since they put the battery in the boot (stupid idea) that they may have a higher charge rate allowing for the cable distance. Anyway i have some codes P0625-00 Alt F Terminal low voltage P0500-00 Vehicle speed sensor circuit malfunction, c0045-00/c0050-00/c0040-00/c0035-00r = r/l/whl spd sensor, r/r/whl spd sensor, f/r/whl/spd sensor , f/l/whl/spd sensor, and i have got a c0899-00 refer to service manual.As i say i think i will attack the voltage situation first get a recon or a new one,although the one on there looks like it's already a recon one (you know how they spray the fake aluminum paint over the stator windings and other stuff). i am an retired grease monkey and oh i wish that cars were as simple to work on as in my youthful days. Anyway thanks for your input i will let you all know how things go when i get around to it. i am 67 and had 4 major back ops and i'm like a stick now, can hardly bend over fenders or as mobile as i was. anyway cheers for now Garry

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

Hi, yeh it's a 2006. I am firstly going to attack this high voltage, as i say whilst i am in engineering mode and driving along i have noticed that the voltage fluctuates anywhere in between 14.4 up to 15.7-15.9 and sometime 16V there is no consistence, too add to the list of things already listed my cruise control does not work. I did think that since they put the battery in the boot (stupid idea) that they may have a higher charge rate allowing for the cable distance. Anyway i have some codes P0625-00 Alt F Terminal low voltage P0500-00 Vehicle speed sensor circuit malfunction, c0045-00/c0050-00/c0040-00/c0035-00r = r/l/whl spd sensor, r/r/whl spd sensor, f/r/whl/spd sensor , f/l/whl/spd sensor, and i have got a c0899-00 refer to service manual.As i say i think i will attack the voltage situation first get a recon or a new one,although the one on there looks like it's already a recon one (you know how they spray the fake aluminum paint over the stator windings and other stuff). i am an retired grease monkey and oh i wish that cars were as simple to work on as in my youthful days. Anyway thanks for your input i will let you all know how things go when i get around to it. i am 67 and had 4 major back ops and i'm like a stick now, can hardly bend over fenders or as mobile as i was. anyway cheers for now Garry

2006 VE 14.7v is maximum and yes you do get a bit of voltage drop allowing for the cable distance to the boot but that was all put into the equation when measuring under the bonnet via the cluster in engineering mode.
You should have some DTC codes set as well with the voltage going up to near 16v as that voltage can cause electronics to start to fry and the ECU BCM should have turned on the MIL (malfunction indicator light) for a code.

I hear you about your back and age I am going to be 68 this year and it is the shits. Just had a little bit more of my left foot amputated before Xmas and still hobbling around a bit

 

[gazzat]

2006 VE 14.7v is maximum and yes you do get a bit of voltage drop allowing for the cable distance to the boot but that was all put into the equation when measuring under the bonnet via the cluster in engineering mode.
You should have some DTC codes set as well with the voltage going up to near 16v as that voltage can cause electronics to start to fry and the ECU BCM should have turned on the MIL (malfunction indicator light) for a code.

I hear you about your back and age I am going to be 68 this year and it is the shits. Just had a little bit more of my left foot amputated before Xmas and still hobbling around a bit

hello, yeh old age is good.no other codes showing but the funny part is a low voltage at the F terminal yet spikes between 14.2-15v i am wondering if i have a loose wire or corrosion somewhere affecting the F terminal and that's why i am getting all these fluctuations. might just buy a newbie and whack it straight in and fingers crossed. cheers Garry.

 

[gazzat]

2006 VE 14.7v is maximum and yes you do get a bit of voltage drop allowing for the cable distance to the boot but that was all put into the equation when measuring under the bonnet via the cluster in engineering mode.
You should have some DTC codes set as well with the voltage going up to near 16v as that voltage can cause electronics to start to fry and the ECU BCM should have turned on the MIL (malfunction indicator light) for a code.

I hear you about your back and age I am going to be 68 this year and it is the shits. Just had a little bit more of my left foot amputated before Xmas and still hobbling around a bit

hello again and sorry to bother you but i just have that much going on at the moment and the brain cant keep up with things. one thing i forgot to mention whilst in engineering mode the voltage for the column stalks remain at a very constant 4.3-4.5V where as the battery meter (loading) fluctuates like when the one arm bandit at the clubs is just about finished there rolls and ready to stop, they never sit still long enough to do any damage to start frying any thing in the BCM or ECU Etc they should have voltage regulators and good thick heat sinks and resistors to take care of these minor spikes for a few milliseconds. Cheers Garry

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

hello again and sorry to bother you but i just have that much going on at the moment and the brain cant keep up with things. one thing i forgot to mention whilst in engineering mode the voltage for the column stalks remain at a very constant 4.3-4.5V where as the battery meter (loading) fluctuates like when the one arm bandit at the clubs is just about finished there rolls and ready to stop, they never sit still long enough to do any damage to start frying any thing in the BCM or ECU Etc they should have voltage regulators and good thick heat sinks and resistors to take care of these minor spikes for a few milliseconds. Cheers Garry

Yes the ECU is fairly well protected against voltage surges & spikes but you know as well as I do eventually if will zap it if it is not fixed.
ECU supplies the voltage for the 5v lines etc so sounds like it is doing it's job anyway keeping the voltage steady for those parts.

 

[Pollushon]

I'd rule grounding issues out firstly, it can have weird effects like over volting because the IBS/BMS tries to compensate. You can use a jumper cable from engine to chassis, see if it has any effect

 

[lout]

16v is too high
15.5v is max

 

[gazzat]

Yes the ECU is fairly well protected against voltage surges & spikes but you know as well as I do eventually if will zap it if it is not fixed.
ECU supplies the voltage for the 5v lines etc so sounds like it is doing it's job anyway keeping the voltage steady for those parts.

hello again. forgot to mention as to why the F field wire is showing low voltage, as i say is it loose or corrosion , i dont want to spend hundres of dollars just because of a faulty wire or something so simple as a bit of corrosion. I measured voltage at the battery post and they are 12.47 and under the hood at the jump start post 12.46 so fairly good.anyway's i have a bit of exploring to do. Cheers Garry