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Update on continuing problems

gazzat

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Hello to all. sorry but i don't now how to restart my problems without doing it as a new post, so if any one can show me i would appreciate. my ID is Gazzat and i problems that i started my thread with ABS and other. Ok if you find it and skip to the end i got the alternator problem sorted, brought a brand new one and it fixed the overcharging. i tried doing that battery piggy back thing to see if it would sort it self out but no luck. Ok i still have a solid ABS light with the chimes and the traction stability control light and chime and still coming up with the P0500 vehicle speed sensor 'A' circuit error. I took it to Supercheap and they ran there scanner on it and it came back with the 4 wheel speed sensors malfunctioning plus P0625-00 Alternator f terminal low voltage and
c0899-00 all to do with the power side of things so i am hoping that getting a new alternator will fix the problems below. However i still have the abs and traction control problems and now i have noticed the when i put my scanner on and press Data stream and go for a drive the speed is not showing on my scanner but the IC speedo still works and other stuff works as in the Tacho/eng temp/ throttle Pos.Now i might be going out on a limb here but my son had a Mirage and he we coming up with output shaft speed sensor malfunction and that was causing all sorts of stuff, limp mode shifting was very aggressive etc, so does anybody know if the VE has a separate speed sensor on the main output shaft separate to the one needed for the IC speedo
  • Battery voltage
  • Faulty Control Module
  • Control Module harness is open or shorted
  • Control Module circuit poor electrical connection
 

07GTS

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abs and traction issues will be related to the wheel sensors which also turns off stability, its a system where a single input is lost it cant be used so triggers many faults, fix alternator and wheel sensors and that should be most of ur issues, the auto has its own speed sensor in it for the shifting and speedo
 

gazzat

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abs and traction issues will be related to the wheel sensors which also turns off stability, its a system where a single input is lost it cant be used so triggers many faults, fix alternator and wheel sensors and that should be most of ur issues, the auto has its own speed sensor in it for the shifting and speedo
hello and don't take this the wrong way,i am not being a smart arse or trying to be awkward, i am a retired grease monkey,fabricator,electrician and i like you love helping people out with problems. I got my alternator sorted out with buying a BRAND NEW unit and the battery checks out very good, supply voltage is good and voltage to steering wheel and stalks are good (4.3-4.4V). On my scanner i had the code P0500 and other codes but they went away once i got the new alternator except P0500-00. I took it to a workshop and got a much more detailed scan and its showing up as 4 different codes (1 for each wheel, speed sensor) now i find it hard to believe that all of a sudden i would have all 4 wheel sensors crap themselves so i immediately thought that instead of 4 error codes it is 1 common unit that is throwing or help throwing this code.So i don't have cruise control (it shows it on but i cannot make it active because it cant get all the wheels to talk to each other),ABS,Traction control and now i cant get the VSS when using my scanners (X2) plugged in and driving and viewing live data stream. So all my problems are to do with vehicle speed,so there must be a module/plug/broken wire somewhere. I have physically pulled each fuse out and tested them, i don't check fuses whilst still in circuit because i have come unstuck before where a fuse has been blown but when you put the continuity lead on one side (say left)it can still get a reading by going thru another circuit that uses the same side (say right)as the circuit under test, maybe a common earth or even thru the filament of a light bulb. Anyway i have to try and find this common fault and why is the VSS not going to the OBDll port but the speedo works fine on the IC and if i am in engineering mode the VSS still shows up there. Anyway thanks for you help and everybody that has contributed. I am getting close to the 80yr old but i am passionate in fault finding and normally will never give up till i find the solution. The biggest problem i have is being on the disability pension i can not afford to buy all these electrical testing equipment and trying stay up to date with all the electronics, it is moving at such a rapid rate. i don't think whilst i'm alive i will ever by a hybrid or an electric vehicle. How would you like to be on holidays and a circuit blows out all because of a resistor or a relay or a voltage regulator the list just goes on and on and then we trust these things flying thru the sky carrying 500 people or so and trusting all this electrical stuff on them.Anyway if i find out i will post the findings because i see there are so many cars that have the same problem, my car is a 2006 VE V6 Omega Commodore. Cheers Garry
 

krusing

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When did this start happening ?
Was it after a storm? or driving through flood waters ?,

As the ABS wiring does make its way under the vehicle down the drivers side,
Along side the fuel lines, there is a multi pin plug adjacent the fuel tank and possibly need to check that for the ingress of moisture And/or corrosion.

To locate all the connectors/plugs for the different circuits,
If you can download the Service manual on to a PC and go the the electrical section, (various links can be found on JC’s)
It has the location, and routes of the wiring, which will help locate the connectors, to check and clean them as required,

The best cleaning solution is “Contact Cleaner” , it’s in a spray can and dissolves moisture and dislodges any dirt in the connectors.
It’s not a 5 minute job, and will take a bit of time check them all.

Firstly, The easiest way to check a speed sensor/s to see if it’s working correctly is with a multimeter,
Disconnect the battery,
Jack the car up and support it on stands,
Unplug the sensor one at a time, and use some small alligator clip leads and connect the multimeter to the sensor and use the ohm function, then spin the wheel,
It should pulse a reading, and they should all display a similar reading.
 
Last edited:

gazzat

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When did this start happening ?
Was it after a storm? or driving through flood waters ?,

As the ABS wiring does make its way under the vehicle down the drivers side,
Along side the fuel lines, there is a multi pin plug adjacent the fuel tank and possibly need to check that for the ingress of moisture And/or corrosion.

To locate all the connectors/plugs for the different circuits,
If you can download the Service manual on to a PC and go the the electrical section, (various links can be found on JC’s)
It has the location, and routes of the wiring, which will help locate the connectors, to check and clean them as required,

The best cleaning solution is “Contact Cleaner” , it’s in a spray can and dissolves moisture and dislodges any dirt in the connectors.
It’s not a 5 minute job, and will take a bit of time check them all.

Firstly, The easiest way to check a speed sensor/s to see if it’s working correctly is with a multimeter,
Disconnect the battery,
Jack the car up and support it on stands,
Unplug the sensor one at a time, and use some small alligator clip leads and connect the multimeter to the sensor and use the ohm function, then spin the wheel,
It should pulse a reading, and they should all display a similar reading.
Hello again. just happened out of the blue no storms or wet actually it was when we had about a week or 2 of stinking hot weather.Aah that is what i need something like a road map disclosing where all the modules/connectors are. i have pulled a lot of plugs apart and blew all the crap around them and i do use the contact cleaner from Jaycar. i have tested the sensors but i didn't disconnect the battery because once you unplug the harness to sensor plug you are completely isolating the electrical system. There is a big difference in readings between front and rear, i have not been able to find the resistance readings for the sensors. to test the front ones whilst is easy to get to it is a bit hard to spin the hub to get a good reading, what would be good (and i might make it up) is to have an electric motor with a rubber tire on the end so i can then push it against the tread of the tire so as to get a steady reading, on the rear is easy jack it up put it on stands unplug the lead then hook up your test leads then start the motor and put it in gear and you get a more steady reading. I do get fluctuations but once again i don't have a reference value as to what they should be and because i can get fluctuations still takes me down that path since they appear to be working it has to be 1 module that isn't sending out the correct voltage or receiving the correct pulse signal. I have rego coming up in a couple of weeks and i don't know if they will pass with these faults. Cheers Garry
 

07GTS

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yea the wheel sensors if u use on ohms to make sure they have resistance, then switch it to a/c (inductive sensor) and spin the wheel and it should generate a ac signal that increases with wheel rpm
 

gazzat

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yea the wheel sensors if u use on ohms to make sure they have resistance, then switch it to a/c (inductive sensor) and spin the wheel and it should generate a ac signal that increases with wheel rpm
hello. i found this and he is pretty much doing what we are saying but once again it looks like he has a hi quality scanner and signal generator. cheers
 
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