Exhaust System for VF SS-V Redline.

[3rspecB]

Yep! My stock mufflers were sent to MPI so they could remove the bimodals and weld them into the new system. They make the manta/dpe systems.

I think he meant for you to look underneath too see if the connectors are plugged into the bimodal actuators.

 

[Jackel]

Bimodals have their electronics packaged along with the motor sitting above the flap. It could be that poor welding practice has fried the electronics... but a good exhaust place should have checked all the stuff works as it should before releasing the car to the customer...

So, as others have suggested, with the car off look down the exhaust outlet where the bimodal flap sits and note it’s position (open/closed) then have someone start the car and again look down the exhaust outlet and note the flap position, then increase revs and note the flaps position... if the flap doesn’t ever move, then either the fuse is blown, or the fuse is removed, or the wiring isn’t plugged in, or the bimodal electronics are fried... Do this for both settings within MyLink...

Depending on what you find, take appropriate action

(ps: the default unpowered bimodal position is open since the spring pulls the flap open... that’s why a blown or removed bimodal fuse gives you the noise all the time)...

With mylink off when the car is off the flap is open. When i start the car and get out and have a look the flap is still open. Should the flap be closed once car is started and idling?

 

[Jackel]

Sorry for the mess around guys. Heres the final update.
When the tick in mylink is off and you start the car, the right bimodal valve closes whilst the left bimodal valve remains open.
Issue is with the left valve.

 

[Skylarking]

Ok.. check the wiring for the faulty valve and if connected, the electronics is probably fried... discuss the fail with the exhaust fitter...

 

[abuch47]

odd to ask here when you'd expect an immediate solution from the fitter.

 

[Paulymac]

Is that all stainless or mild steel? Wish I was in Melbourne there are a couple really good performance shops there at good prices. Same as Queensland. Here in SA we get ripped a bit.

Hey mate would like to know which ones you can recommend in Qld (Brisbane) had a few quotes from the usual people Walkinshaw,Tekno etc they all offer the same products at horrendous prices, they all seem to be pushing Xforce exhausts , tunes were from $700 & one bloke was $1700 .
And why do exhaust shops offer 3/4 headers and the performance shops want to use 7/8s doing my head in . Any info much appreciated.
17 redline Ute

 

[Sheppbloke]

Hi Paulymac. I can give you the benefit of my previous experiences and hopefully is of some help.
First. Any decent tuners are around $900 to a Grand. After spending plenty trying to save a bit here and there, I ended up at Dale Patterson Motorsport and couldn't be any happier with the outcome. Don't get too caught up worrying about trying to save some money, you'll end up paying for a decent workshop and system in the end anyway, or simply give up. And don't get sucked into the 1 & 7/8th headers from performance shops. That's the first sign they probably not worth considering. Mine has 1 3/4 into a 3 inch system with a cam upgrade and it's an absolute rocket ship. If your staying relatively stock, 1 and 3/4 is plenty.

 

[[paradox]]

And why do exhaust shops offer 3/4 headers and the performance shops want to use 7/8s doing my head in

because you can probably squeeze an extra 5rwkw at the top end with the 1 7/8, so it looks better on a dyno chart.

 

[Sheppbloke]

Exactly. Sounds ok at the pub over some beers but in practise you would be hard pressed to tell + or - 5kw redlined at WOT. Under that, the smaller pipes do a better job in the rev range you will drive it 99% of the time.

 

[VESSVBLACK]

Exhausts are subjective, what sounds crap to someone else will properly sound good to you, but joe bloggs in the street isnt gonna hive five you for your note ffs