Hot running on freeway.

[jcvhsle]

Hey all. Took the sle to work this morning and the drive in was great. Coming home in 30degrees the temp ran near three quarters on the highway, sluggish and when back on normal roads the auto was disengaging from drive at the lights.
Fresh rebuild with 600km. Fresh pump, radiator core, coil and modulator valve on auto and timing is at about 8 degrees. Thoughts please.

 

[waikato willy]

my vk ran warm at 10 deg (308 big cam , MSD ignition,650DP quickfuel carb), I bumped timing up to 12 and this sorted it, although at 100km/hr I'm doing 2,600 rpm so this might be a cause as well.
I got rid of the electric fan and went back to a viscous fan , I modified a nissan patrol fan hub to fit (really cheap) and used a plastic fan off a SR20 silvia
this works really good and made no noticeable difference to power , still pulled high 12s on the quarter

really susceptible to fuel now as well, 98oct only, 95 can cause a bit of preignition and a little hard to start when its really warm

 

[Lacksballs]

Just to ensure your not chasing your tail, I would hook up a "K-type" thermocouple (most multi meters have this function) to validate the actual temp.

 

[vc commodore]

I'm running 6 degrees on a warm 6, with 2 electric fans and a 40+ degree day, my fans turn on at 90 degrees and off at 85.....On the highway, they hardly turn on, even on hot days....The on off is on the way home from work...I go from a 90 KPH zone to a 60KPH zine, with traffic lights...After 5 minutes of stop start driving on they come...

Thermostat wise....I actually removed the guts from it...Originally I had it complete, but I found during stop start traffic, my fans were coming on and off much more regular...ie every 2 or 3 minutes, which peeved me no end....Since I removed the guts, they come on twice, during a 15 minute stop start traffic light crawl...

I am also running a 3 core radiator too, if that helps

 

[gtrboyy]

Should be able to sit on operating temp all day even on hot days with factory cooling system.

-water pump with cast impellor not tin blade shite

-thermostat tested to open in boiling pan...can trim copper tab off & drill extra hole to bleed system easier.

-must have bypass hose from water pump to manifold.

-clutch fan in working order & factory shroud fitted.

-factory copper radiator work million times better than aftermarket versions out there.

Other than that tune is check if stocker set timing etc to that or if cammed & modded dissy is recurved to suit mods.

 

[jcvhsle]

Should be able to sit on operating temp all day even on hot days with factory cooling system.

-water pump with cast impellor not tin blade shite

-thermostat tested to open in boiling pan...can trim copper tab off & drill extra hole to bleed system easier.

-must have bypass hose from water pump to manifold.

-clutch fan in working order & factory shroud fitted.

-factory copper radiator work million times better than aftermarket versions out there.

Other than that tune is check if stocker set timing etc to that or if cammed & modded dissy is recurved to suit mods.
[/

 

[jcvhsle]

Tick to everything apart from thermo mode. All parts new

 

[gtrboyy]

What size & type of thermofan? Temperature that it's set to turn on & switch type?

16in span or single generally don't do enough.

vs v6 slimline or mondeo fans fit & work on early girls...going to efi v8 85amp alternator is a good idea.

Putting factory clutch fan/shroud setup back on & doing same drive will tell you if what you have is inadequate or something else wrong.

Generally if it stays cool slow traffic/stopped at lights it's usually fan....on the move say will be airflow issue,blockage or cavitation.

 

[vc commodore]

What size & type of thermofan? Temperature that it's set to turn on & switch type?

16in span or single generally don't do enough.

vs v6 slimline or mondeo fans fit & work on early girls...going to efi v8 85amp alternator is a good idea.

Putting factory clutch fan/shroud setup back on & doing same drive will tell you if what you have is inadequate or something else wrong.

Generally if it stays cool slow traffic/stopped at lights it's usually fan....on the move say will be airflow issue,blockage or cavitation.

I have a 16" Davies Craig fan and an unknown 12" brand thermo fan. 16" grill side, unknown brand engine side...They are offset from each other with the radiator....


Davies Craig thermo switch....Took a little while to get the on/off where I was happy, as it doesn't actually have temperature settings on the mechanism....I went by my incar temperature gauge...Below is what it looks like

 

[gtrboyy]

I've used 16' spal before...works fine with 6cyl not enough for v8.

Both setups were in lc gtr

3 or 4 core vk copper radiator with triple webbered 202...worked great once added 70amp vk efi alternator.

Figured it worked awsome so tried it again with efi 304 conversion....once engine bay heatsoaked it couldn't get heat out quick enough stuck in traffic or slow moving.

Plastic shroud & slimmest solid plastic fan & setup in avatar vs s3 radiator with au fans were only things that could keep car cool in traffic jam on super hot days....85amp alternator struggled a bit,120amp would handle it easy.

There is a better Davies Craig switches...next model/kit bolts into water way is much nicer also another one 2 relays for hi/low & air con if required plus can program switch on/off temps yourself.