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Losh's VR Ute build thread

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Went to the self serve wreckers and pulled a wiper plenum that i couldn't get off once before as i needed something to undo the plastic nuts. I found a pretty good one, as most are just cracked in numerous places
    The one i picked only had some cracking around the wiper hole. I managed to glue it back with QBond and then a thin layer of JB Weld to give it some more strength. 20180902_135249.jpg
     
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  2. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Wiper plenum is on. Have to look real close to see any cracks. My old one on the other hand was trashed and really beyond repair. Here is the new plenum fitted. Only cracks were around the drivers wiper arm hole. 20180903_163151.jpg 20180903_163139.jpg
     
  3. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Currently working on the wiper arms. I have wire brushed them on the grinder and have undercoated and am now finishing off the top coats. Currently 14deg outside so I am hoping to get one last decent coat on before the temp rapidly drops. Would love to have got them back on tonight but the cold and frost will mess with the paint, unless I get the bits in the garden shed within the next hour. Might even bring them inside once the fumes die off. Wife and step kids can't handle the smell.
    On another note here is a pic my old plenum, you can see how trashed it was, big long crack up one side. 20180903_163925_resized.jpg 20180903_165657.jpg
     
  4. afstruct

    afstruct Well-Known Member

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  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    They can be bought new but for 200 bucks. I think a pretty reasonable SH one at 10 bucks and spend the money saved on some sort of upgrade is the way to go. I found they are a bastard to remove as the corners get hung up on these brackets on each side. Wouldn't really be an issue if SH were not a tad brittle. So I was really careful not to damage the one I pulled from the wreck anymore than the tiny bit of cracking it already had. Fitting the new one back in is really quite easy, which was a surprise to me.
     
  6. afstruct

    afstruct Well-Known Member

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    Brittle , the trouble with plastics . The dash fascia clip tangs are notorious for breaking/ being broken.
     
  7. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Got the wiper arms back on today. I have now finished all the repainting of the black areas. I have a tad more painting to do. I still have to finish painting the sill where I repaired a dent. I blew some white pressure can over it and now just need to rub it back and gun in some proper white. I'd like to paint the rim of the tub where the hooks for the tonneau connect too but I need more white paint plus primer. It has a few cracks in the paint which normally mean bare metaling and going from there. But I'm thinking I will rub it down with some 400 or 600 and then prime it and then rub it back until I can just start seeing the white come through in patches and then a light prime again, before top coat. I have done this before with some good success. I will eventually crack again but by that time there will be other areas in need of repair and all can be done at the same time.
     
  8. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    So I have taken some advice from JC and have booked the ute in for a trans cooler. I booked it in three months ago as that is how far books ahead. But this morning I confirmed my booking for the 17/9 and today the trans tech has ordered my cooler.
    Originally the booking was to get the valve body reamed and oversize valve fitted along with a bigger boost valve and cooler all at the same time but I have put the rest off until December due to financial constraints. The good thing about this is he is going to take it for a drive on the 16th and test the TC lockup. He said he will be able to determine if the valve body needs sorting from the test drive. But given this a common issue with the VR and VS autos, I will be surprised if I don't need the valve body overhauled.
     
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  9. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Went to the wreckers today to buy replacement numberplate light housings. I grabbed a couple off a sedan which are very similar to the ute ones. From what I can tell the ute ones must have a different bulb holder, that has two male lugs that the female lugs in the ute loom plug into.
    I ended up grabbing the whole harness from the sedan and unplugged it from inside the boot lid. I chopped the female lugs off mine and shortened the harness and used female and male red bullet lugs. They are a bit of a bastard to disconnect as they fit really tight, unlike spade lugs but hopefully the repair will be permanent.
    Tomorrow I have to swing by Jaycar and grab a couple of $1.75 LED wedge globes. I wanted to get the cree LED's but at 15 bucks each it's a waste, considering the $1.75 ones should illuminate the number plate as good as original.

    While I was on my phone today I got two emails. One from eBay telling me about a 10% voucher and another one with 500 Flybuys bonus points. I ummed and ahhhrd but decided I would get a set of rear QFM HPX pads. I need them soon enough, so they can sit in the shed with the new RDA slotted rotors, I have in the ute ready to pop in the shed when I head home. I really wanted a set of rear braids but that's $165 I couldn't really afford just yet. Hopefully I can get them before the end of the year.
    I'm heading to Adelaide in just over two weeks and I am grabbing a couple of rear caliper kits and a fuel filter as they sell them a fair bit cheaper than I can get them here for. Plan is to go over the rear brakes once I get all the bits I need. I'm hoping that with some rear upgrades I can achieve a reasonable braking improvement. I know years ago when I fitted a rear braid on the Jeep with original drums and shoes and the braking was a marked improvement, just with a new rear braided line.
     
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Picked up the ute after work today. Trans mech has just fitted a nice decent cooler to the trans. I had him test drive it to see if the TC is getting too much slip and it was not. I now have the choice in early Dec when he does the service to have the valve body overhauled as well as fit a larger boost valve, or just do the service and boost valve. Given the valve body is an extra $200 I said to him I would let him know closer to the booking. It is an upgrade to have it done but since mine is still ok I could get it done in another year. Just need to see if anything else needs fixing beforehand or around the same time. Ideally I will get all the work done but good to know I can wait a while longer if need be.
    Apologies, no pics of the cooler but it sits in front of the rad and can't really be seen to take a shot.
     

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