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My HSV VZ Senator Barbados blue

Surfwagon

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My HSV Monroe struts and the Monroe GT Gas struts I cut down are exactly the same physically, size, lengths, position of brackets and height of cap (as you call it) above the spring seat.
The inserts are easy to fit, you drill a tiny 3mm hole in the centre of the base to release gas and oil, then 65mm down from the cap you saw the top off , then drill out the bottom hole to 14mm for the retaining bolt then you fit the insert inside after deburring and cleaning.
To cut the cap off, you mark it all the way around then keep turning it around as you saw through the outer skin (about 2.5-3mm thick) to get a straight cut.
You then have to figure a way of knocking the insert fully home as it has dimples near the top to keep it firmly in place once fully home then you fit the bolt and torque it up to 75nm/50ft-lbs.
BTW std HSV struts are made by Monroe and are very close in specs to GT Gas (Clubsport & R8) and Sensatrac (Senator & Grange) made for FE2 length/style springs.
 

twalt

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very sexy mate :)
 

Calaber

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My HSV Monroe struts and the Monroe GT Gas struts I cut down are exactly the same physically, size, lengths, position of brackets and height of cap (as you call it) above the spring seat.
The inserts are easy to fit, you drill a tiny 3mm hole in the centre of the base to release gas and oil, then 65mm down from the cap you saw the top off , then drill out the bottom hole to 14mm for the retaining bolt then you fit the insert inside after deburring and cleaning.
To cut the cap off, you mark it all the way around then keep turning it around as you saw through the outer skin (about 2.5-3mm thick) to get a straight cut.
You then have to figure a way of knocking the insert fully home as it has dimples near the top to keep it firmly in place once fully home then you fit the bolt and torque it up to 75nm/50ft-lbs.
BTW std HSV struts are made by Monroe and are very close in specs to GT Gas (Clubsport & R8) and Sensatrac (Senator & Grange) made for FE2 length/style springs.

Thanks for that info Surfwagon. I have a couple of questions about what you have provided.

1. The small hole you drill to release the oil etc., which you state is drilled in the centre of the base of the strut. I assume you mean the flat bottom surface of the strut below the two lower mounting brackets?
2. The 14 mm hole - is that the same hole just opened up to 14mm after the oil has been drained and the piston removed? I see in your photos that the inserts have a small projection at the bottom - I assume this seats against the bottom of the strut and the projection is threaded internally so that a bolt is tightened up on it from underneath the strut? Does the bolt come with the inserts?
3. Your photos also show a black part of the upper part of each strut housing that appears to be a collar around the tubing. What is that and does it come with the inserts?
4. There is also a white plastic shim around the piston shaft - does that just sit on top of the insert and the rebound rubber sits above it when the strut is assembled?
5. How does the cost of the inserts compare with buying a replacement strut assembly?

Sorry for all the questions but as I said earlier, I was unaware that inserts were available for this design of strut and I've only ever seen complete replacement units for sale.
 

Surfwagon

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5 questions

Answers with pics
1. The small hole you drill to release the oil etc., which you state is drilled in the centre of the base of the strut. I assume you mean the flat bottom surface of the strut below the two lower mounting brackets?
That is in the centre of the base of the tube wich is slightly convex
2. The 14 mm hole - is that the same hole just opened up to 14mm after the oil has been drained and the piston removed? I see in your photos that the inserts have a small projection at the bottom - I assume this seats against the bottom of the strut and the projection is threaded internally so that a bolt is tightened up on it from underneath the strut? Does the bolt come with the inserts?
The 14mm is the same hole you drilled 3mm. the small hole is because if it is a gas strut you are drilling there will be pressure and oil and the small hole allows this to escape with out blowing up in your face, also good idea to wear safety goggles
test housing showing 14mm hole and the centre shock cut out of one of the GT Gas I actually used on the car
DSC059271600x1200.jpg

DSC059321600x1200.jpg

DSC059311600x1200.jpg

3. Your photos also show a black part of the upper part of each strut housing that appears to be a collar around the tubing. What is that and does it come with the inserts?
That collar is just a rubber sleeve to stop moisture and dirt going down the tube bteween the insert and the outer housing
4. There is also a white plastic shim around the piston shaft - does that just sit on top of the insert and the rebound rubber sits above it when the strut is assembled?
Tha white plastic piece is just a seat for the factory or aftermarket bump stop to rest on
5. How does the cost of the inserts compare with buying a replacement strut assembly?
Adjustable KYB's cost $500 a pair as a complete strut but they are not as good as Koni and I got these inserts for $500 off another forum member who didn't use them on a project


hope this helps
cheers SW
 
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Calaber

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Thanks S/W - your pics were perfect and cleared up a few points. I have now modified the old original struts as per your pics and only need to purchase new inserts after Christmas.

Just another question - You stated that the hole in the bottom is opened out to 14mm - that's a pretty big hole - what size is the retaining bolt?
 

Surfwagon

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Thanks S/W - your pics were perfect and cleared up a few points. I have now modified the old original struts as per your pics and only need to purchase new inserts after Christmas.

Just another question - You stated that the hole in the bottom is opened out to 14mm - that's a pretty big hole - what size is the retaining bolt?

The bolt is 12 or 12.5mm and I got away with a 13mm/1/2"drill but you do need a little play as dimples inside the housing from where the brake and swaybar brackets are spot welded on can push the insert to one side a little.
In one the bolt screwed in easily but the other needed a little filing.
The centre of the bottom isn't always perfect due to the weld around the base plate which is maybe why Koni specify 14mm.
One thing with the drill bits is that 13mm are around $10-20 where as the 14mm drill bits are around $30-40 each.
When you fit the insert into the housing up to the locating dimples on the insert you can just reach the bolt boss to fit the bolt and keep the boss centred whilst you knock in the insert.
 

Calaber

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The bolt is 12 or 12.5mm and I got away with a 13mm/1/2"drill but you do need a little play as dimples inside the housing from where the brake and swaybar brackets are spot welded on can push the insert to one side a little.
In one the bolt screwed in easily but the other needed a little filing.
The centre of the bottom isn't always perfect due to the weld around the base plate which is maybe why Koni specify 14mm.
One thing with the drill bits is that 13mm are around $10-20 where as the 14mm drill bits are around $30-40 each.
When you fit the insert into the housing up to the locating dimples on the insert you can just reach the bolt boss to fit the bolt and keep the boss centred whilst you knock in the insert.

Thanks S/W. I think I'll just do the 13mm holes, as I have that size drill, and open them out a tad with a rat-tail file, then finish off with a finer semi-circular file.
 

Surfwagon

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I was out for a drive last week when I realised that I had a deflating front tyre.
Anyway changed the wheel/ tyre and found that the senator wheel has a crack in the rear rim edge.
So because I need new tyres I'm also thinking about fitting different wheels.
Always loved BBS wheels (had set on my last car) but as funds are a bit tight I am looking at some Starcorp Racing Challenge wheels, 19 x 8.5, look similar to BBS CH motorsport wheels.products
Crack in senator rim.
DSC059341600x1200.jpg

DSC059351600x1200.jpg
 

RicheCV8

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I was out for a drive last week when I realised that I had a deflating front tyre.
Anyway changed the wheel/ tyre and found that the senator wheel has a crack in the rear rim edge.
So because I need new tyres I'm also thinking about fitting different wheels.
Always loved BBS wheels (had set on my last car) but as funds are a bit tight I am looking at some Starcorp Racing Challenge wheels, 19 x 8.5, look similar to BBS CH motorsport wheels.products
Crack in senator rim.
DSC059341600x1200.jpg

DSC059351600x1200.jpg

How did this happen, must have hit a pot hole the size of a small moon...OUCH!
 
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