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Project 12s Turbo VT V6

turbo_will

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Does matter man if they are being set off from false knock/engine noise etc. Even without hitting boost they were being set off in this. Just reving in neutral would sometimes do it. Ecu dosnt calculate knock, has main timing table which gives full timing and low timing map which is used when knock is sensed. Peak torque would be around 3500-4000rpm 11-12degrees. Drove this a bit today still all good and getting full timing! Got a new best of 5.6secs 0-100 just planting it. Even 1sec of stalling just turns tyres unfortunately.
 

chargedvx6

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The pcm/ computer does calculate knock. I deal with these regularly so I'm letting you know for your own sake. When it calculates something bad is happening even though you have removed the knock sensors and may well have removed the O2 sensors too it will go from the no knock/ high octane (you cal full timing) table to the full knock/ low octane (you call low timing) table. Now, when that's all happened and the ecu isn't happy that things are asafe it will just keep chopping timing up to 24degrees at a time until it's happy. Ecu happy usually means driver not happy hahaha

With a proper tune that corrects AFRs (not by fuel pressure reg adjustment cos that doesn't work) the power will come. Timing doesn't produce torque really unless it's doing that amongst the correct or close to correct fuelling.

Worst kind of false knock is from the calculated knock and not from the knock sensors picking up irrelevant noises. When irrelevant noises are picked up the ecu only pulls timing at that moment. With calulated knock the ecu learns this and never gives the timing it took out back lol. That's why your ecu reset makes it good for 20seconds or so then poos up asap

Good luck, manifolds look decent so should be good once it's sorted
 

turbo_will

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Alright that makes sense kind of acts like a limp home mode. Thanks for that info mate.
 

turbo_will

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Got bored with 10psi after a while as you do so fitted a boost tee and started winding it in. Added an extra 7th injector with a 1600cc indy coming on at 10psi. Up to 16psi boost now with a 40/60 water/meth mix on the stock ecu/tune lol. Goes prity hard but got to be careful to keep it off the limiter and it pings if you boost it before the motor is fully warmed up. Prity much on the limit with factory timing and 98. Trans hates the extra power though bounces off the limiter 2-3times on both 1-2 and 2-3 changes. Got a corvette servo for the 1-2 just need to fit it. Roll ons in 2nd at 60kms gets plenty of wheelspin but it still grips heaps well and pulls hard. Times have improved a bit, hitting limiter on 2-3 is killing it though. Racing again end of this month if its not broken.

70-120 in 2nd gear 2.896
80-120 in 2nd gear 2.317
90-140 2nd+3rd gear inc shift 3.807
 

turbo_will

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60-190 km run

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Shaq...ature=youtu.be

This thing goes twice as fast when its cold/not warmed up haha. Dunno if it runs more timing cold or just cold motor but 2nd goes straight to limiter in 60km roll ons. Used to ping cold but added more water now never pings. Not the best idea thrashing it cold but hey this will be scrapped in a couple of months moving on to boosting my vx ss.
 

Immortality

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Sounds like it needs to be tuned properly. Go to the PCMhack website and see what is involved. Get yourself a copy of one of the enhanced tunes that can run larger MAF's that don't max out and tune it.

Tuned properly you shouldn't need to add extra injectors but you will need some decent 60 lbs injectors to get the flow you need. Most of the guys use the Seimens DEKA injectors.

Listen to the man above, he knows a thing or 2 about these PCM's ;)

Re the timing. Ecotecs seem to have a fairly efficient combustion chamber and hence do not require a lot of timing to make good power. The standard ecotec also has some fairly weak pistons in the n/a engine, 10psi and a good tune they will last. More then that and you're looking at a limited life span. I suspect that the rings have something to do with this as I have seen a couple where the parts of the piston crown are left behind suggesting the rings may be butting together.

Considering the age and mileage of this car/engine it's almost certain that the engine mounts are totally stuffed which could be causing some of your issues. these are the best mounts available if you don't want the engine to move TTT Performance Engineering Leaders in engine performance upgrades

The video linked above (jetV6) is into the 9's and he's still using the standard IRS suspension....
 

turbo_will

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Thanks for the advice. I know it should be tuned and have bigger injectors etc in an ideal situation but I will be scrapping this car when rego runs out and don't have any time/money to blow on this tuning/fuel system etc. Its a budget build. My theory is if its not knocking there is no reason it wont hang together. Honestly im surprised I could go this far on stock ecu regarding knock. Its as fast 80-120km as a r35 gtr, good enough for this banger.

I have two spare rods and pistons from another ecotec and compared to falcon rods/pistons they are much the same. I ran 126mph on them lol didn't drop a rod till 430rwkw. Not as bad as many would think. Broken ring lands are typical det syndrome. Engine mounts were replaced with std mounts seem ok for now.

At the end of the day if a can pb on 60ft, et or mph im happy.
 

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On a stock tune, even a L67 supercharger tune your going to be maxing out the MAF so it's not going to see the extra air and add fuel. I guess the extra injectors are sort of taking care of it but it won't be ideal.

The one thing we have learned is that keeping the tune safe keeps these engines alive.
 

turbo_will

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Yea maf was probably maxed ages ago it was way too lean on the gate spring with no additional fueling. Fuel pump was not far behind haha. Heres a highlight of afrs they are actually fairly good considering. Sure its not ideal but it works.

 

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Ecu must also freak out if it does not receive noise as leaving them cable tied out the way didn't work even when I earthed the knock sensors back to battery.

Fark. I've made up some rubber isolators (earth strap across the rubber) that sit between the block and knock sensor for my soon to be budget turbocharged v6 auto VY. Didn't realize the ECU was that smart. Back to the drawing board.
 
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