Steering wheel removal, stuck

[vs-lover]

If you put the steering wheel nut back on a few turns and then grab the nut and pull back wards and tell me if you can get any movements backwards of the shaft itself ?

 

[losh1971]

If you put the steering wheel nut back on a few turns and then grab the nut and pull back wards and tell me if you can get any movements backwards of the shaft itself ?

I yanked it back as far as I could. I even undone the clamp at the rack and it still doesn't come out far enough unless I take bolt right out but then there won't be enough insertion. I can't see how it could have even changed anyway since the clamp was tight. I thought it had slipped but it didn't look like it had slipped down like I thought it must have as it doesn't seem to be any further up the shaft than it was.

I'm just about ready to pay the $180 and buy a SH column just for the sake of elimination.

 

[losh1971]

So just to add the wheel won't even slide onto the taper enough before it hits the bearing housing. It's all sloppy on the shaft. I definitely need another 10mm of shaft to have any chance of getting the wheel sitting on the taper.

 

[vs-lover]

I must admit I'm totally at a loss as to what's happening here. A video or two would be of great help here I might add.

 

[losh1971]

I got the circlip, two washers and spring on, just. I had to crawl underneath again with a torch and loosen the bolt off and go again. I managed to get the 5mm I needed. I noticed a cracked column shroud where the barrel goes so I have used some JB Weld and will have to wait until 7pm tomorrow night when I get home from work, before I can install it and finally get the steering wheel back on. Been a major PITA. I am hoping I never have to remove the bearing housing again that's for sure.

 

[vs-lover]

You're right they aren't pleasant at all. I still have a complete column packed away in a box for my wagon as that has a very slight twist in the mounting bracketry from when a little coloured wanker decided he wanted the car more than what we did. This was during the era when it was all the rage to steal wagons and do rear ended ram raids into shops. The wife came back during the process of the little furker trying to break the steering lock via heaving on the steering wheel. He bolted at 100mph along with my wallet that was left under the seat accidentally and he went down North East Road racking up a debt on my Visa Card until I cancelled it and he got caught at the OG Hotel on OG Road. So sadly my column still has a slight twist in it and as such you can see the column cover doesn't sit quite parallel to the area where all the warning lights in the dash are. I've always said everything works as it should so I'l do the change over when some thing major needs to be done in that area. BTW that break in happened in 2002 and to date still nothings needed to be done in that area, so the replacement is still packed away in it's box located in the Shed.

 

[losh1971]

Not wrong VSL that column has given me he'll over the last few weeks. I have no idea why the last two times have been so hard?? I rebuilt the column a couple of year ago and popped the wheel off and it never bottomed out either of those times. Yet now it has to be shimmed on the taper to tighten it up without it rubbing on the bearing housing.

 

[vs-lover]

Do you still think a rattle gun was used on it ? thus flaring out the diecast part of the wheel somewhat ?

 

[losh1971]

Still think a rattle gun was used on it ?

Quite possible but why would be my question? I only nip it up, it's not like it's going to rattle loose and fall off before you realise something is wrong.
They originally come with a lock washer but mine is long gone.

 

[losh1971]

So now have another problem. The shaft is rubbing on the boot where it passes through the firewall, making a squeak I am also getting and occasional click/knock coming from that area. Any ideas? I don't have a floor jack or hard surface to raise the front so can't look underneath while turning.