VE SSV Redline - Cold Start Issues

[Nitro_X]

No worries

 

[scrano]

I'm wondering whether there has been any sort of software update for the ECU on a 2011 SSV Redline at all? It's probably worth ringing them, and finding out.

A mate of mine that owns a wreckers over in WA, and knows a hell of a lot about cars in general, but especially Commodores because he's owned a heap of them, and done a lot of work on them, actually also suggested to check and see whether there's any sort of problems or damage to AFM plug and wires, and/or whether the plug has come loose, because as soon as I described it, he said that he'd be checking that out.

I just wish I had a photo of the AFM plug, so I know what it looks like, and where it's located in the engine bay??

 

[Nitro_X]

He might be referring to the MAF (mass airflow) sensor, which is located on the air intake tube between the filter and throttle body

It's prolly worth checking the MAF sensor for dirt/contaminants.

Just out of interest, what fuel do you use?......[edit] I forgot you already mentioned this, doh.
I run mine exclusively on BP Ultimate 98 (or equivalent if travelling)

You can check your current software version by going into 'engineering mode' and scroll to 'software ver.' and hit the enter button.
Write down the version number and ask Holden if it needs updating.

 

[Nitro_X]

Although, I can't see how a faulty MAF sensor, plug or cable could cause the symptoms you describe.
I would think a fault in this circuit/hardware would activate the engine check light and/or a diagnostic trouble code (DTC)

 

[scrano]

Yeah I think he was definitely referring to the AFM wiring, bcoz we were speaking about the MAF sensor and a few other things to begin with, and then he specifically said to check that the AFM plug and wires aren't damaged in some way, because I think that he thought at first that I'd put OTRCAI on and removed the MAF sensor, and done a MAFless tune, because that's something that has always been on my list of things that I wanted to do, but once we got past that, and started talking about some other stuff, he said specifically to check the AFM plug and wiring for any damage, and he gave me a list of a few other things to try, but I'll speak to him soon and make sure that he was referring to that. I've cleaned the MAF sensor on my old Gen 3 a few times, and I've seen how they play up when they get fouled up, but it's generally not just as its starting up, not like what's happening with mine, it usually means the car runs rougher, and chews more fuel, but I suppose it's probably worth cleaning it anyways and seeing how it goes.

I always run 98 octane fuel, and usually fuel up at servos that look like they've got all new fuel pumps and underground tanks, because I'm always worried about getting contaminants from a bad fuel batch.

Thanks for the tip about checking the firmware version, because I was going through the options in there the other day, but I couldn't see that option in there at all.

I appreciate all of the help and advice mate, because this has really got me stuffed

 

[Nitro_X]

Oh ok.

I have no idea what the AFM is....maybe someone else here may know.

 

[scrano]

The AFM is the Advanced Fuel Management system that cuts the 6.0 litre V8 back to 4 cylinders when it's not required, and then back to 8 as soon as you put your foot down, but I've got not of where the wiring system goes into the engine, or what the plug looks like (Sorry if I read that wrong, and you know what it is, just not where it is, but it sounds like you didn't know know what it was. Anyways sorry if I misunderstood what you was saying there)

 

[Nitro_X]

Ah ok
GM call it Active Fuel Management.
Which is controlled by the ECM, (also known as Engine Control Unit - ECU) that's the main computer module

The Valve Lifter Oil Manifold (VLOM) solenoids control each the intake/exhaust valves on four cylinders, which is part of the AFM system, I'm trying to find out where this wiring loom/plugs connects to on the LS3 engine, that's prolly what your mate is referring to, not the ECU plug itself. (which is what I originally was thinking he might have meant)

But I can't see how a loose/damaged/faulty plug or wire on this circuit would just create a momentary issue on cold start ONLY and then work fine for normal driving and hot start.
Also, the ECU would know if the signal was missing from a bad connection on this circuit and log a fault code.

The following is a technical description of that circuit:

Each of the 4 valve lifter oil manifold (VLOM) solenoid windings, are connected in parallel to a fused
ignition circuit, supplied by the powertrain relay, in the underhood fuse block. The control circuit for
each solenoid is connected to an individual low side driver, internal to the engine control module
(ECM). Each low side driver has its own fault detection circuit, which monitors the solenoid control
circuit for an incorrect voltage level. If an incorrect voltage level, such as an open/high resistance,
or short to ground is detected, the low side driver will turn OFF, and the fault detection circuit will
communicate the condition to the central processor internal to the ECM. These DTCs will set when
the ECM detects an incorrect voltage level on the ignition circuit, the solenoids, or a solenoid
control circuit, after the ignition switch is turned ON. If a VLOM solenoid control circuit DTC is set,
the ECM will command V8 mode, turn ON the malfunction indicator light (MIL), and turn OFF the
fuel injector for that cylinder, resulting in an engine misfire.

 

[scrano]

Ah ok, I thought that it was Advanced and not Active, but I've never really looked at the actual wording, I just knew what it did.

I did a little bit of reading up on the AFM, and I'm not sure where it is on the engine (because that's what I think that he was actually referring to, not the plug on the ECM/ECU), but from the little bit of info that I've found already, it seems as though they must've used a lead free solder on joints in the unit, and/or on the wiring harness and plug, and just like these new games consoles like the Xbox 360, PS3 and anything from then on, I'm guessing that because they used lead free solder, that they've had a much bigger problem with dry solder joints, and the solder just generally being a lot more brittle, but that's only what I've read on a few links about issues with the AFM, and I'm not sure why that'd cause a problem on cold starts only, and not a persistent problem, but then again I'm not sure why any sort of problem would only be happening on a cold start up, and not happening persistently.

I'm just hoping I can gather enough info to take it back to the mechanic and say "these are the potential causes that I've found, and I want them checked out, because I didn't pay through the nose to have something addressed, and basically it's still bloody happening"

Thanks again Nitro X, you're an absolute legend, because at least you're helping me eliminate certain things and I really appreciate it

 

[scrano]

I just spoke to my mate Nitro X, and he made a mistake, and did actually mean to check the MAF sensor and wiring harness for it. The reason he initially said you check the AFM plug and wiring harness, was because as a wrecker he just habitually calls them Air Flow Meters or AFM, and I questioned him about it, and he said "sorry but I didn't mean to check the Active Fuel Management, but actually the Air Flow Meter, or in other words the MAF sensor", and he said that apparently it was a really common fault with the LS1, the plug and wiring for the MAF would rub on the belts, and then short out and cause issues similar to what I'm dealing with.

I can't remember for certain where the MAF sensor was located on my old LS1 VX, either it's in the same location on the new 6.0 litre engines, then the same issue is probably there, so I pull the sensor out when I get a chance and clean it, and then inspect the plug and wiring at the same time.

It's probably a long shot, but at least it's just another thing that I can eliminate as a potential cause