After I installed the new sensor, at first nothing happened. So I finally lashed out and bought myself:
But when it arrived, the silly duffers had sent me the wrong cards for it. I got Opel/Vauxhall and Saab instead of Holden and GM.
So I have been waiting all this while for the new cards to come so I can figure out exactly what is going on.
I just went down and hooked the battery up then to run the motor for a bit. Had to jump start it.
After a jump start, now the speedo is working, so that signal has been restored.
But it is still not changing gears.
Now check powertrain is gone, and it is in limp mode.
Anyway, it is all related to batteries, like so many of these gremlins. Has made the computers wig out somewhere.
When these cards arrive, I hope I can fix it with the Tech 2.
I bought a new project. This 5.7 litre Durango 4WD. It has been keeping me busy in the meantime,
$3000. It was cheap because the oil pressure light was coming on. I opened it up and it had some sludge and bits in the sump had blocked the pickup. The PCV valve had blocked and that caused it. It was running really well, so I think a cleanup has rescued it.
I just finished cleaning inside the motor, under the valve covers and timing cover, and I installed a high volume aftermarket oil pump. New shocks, engine mounts, some steering parts, a couple of bolts had snapped off holding the exhaust manifolds on, had to set that straight.
It is such a sick car. Huge piece of American steel. The wheels are half as big as me. Working on it is a workout because everything is giant size. Makes me feel like a Lilliputian. With the radiator out, I am able to - and in fact have to - stand between the engine and the grille to reach over to the back of the motor to take out the manifold and get to the bolts at the back of the valve covers. There is a space fully big enough for me to stand where the water pump and clutch fan and radiator go.
It has super chunky torsion bar suspension. It will be a gangster ride when I finish.
Getting to the oil pickup was a mission because the steering rack has to come out, which requires removal of the torsion bar. Then the wheels have to be disassembled to the lower ball joints so you can pull the front axles out. Then finally, the front diff comes out and you can drop the sump. Even after that there is an engine to transmission bracket covering the rear sump bolts, and the engine mounts have to be undone and the motor jacked up just to get that bracket out.
I will certainly never complain about getting a Commode sump out again.