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VF SS first modifications
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vr304
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Heads don’t have to come off for a timing chain but they do for lifters tho
Skylarking
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About the only thing that can go wrong with the cam timing mechanicals is the chain stretches and puts strain on the guides and tensioner which also wear out along with the chain... Such can also result in the chain jumping a cog tooth and buggering up the timing though I’d suspect DTC’s if that occurs.
Stretched chain can also result in cogs wearing out (Nissan D series was notorious for sintered chain cogs wearing out) making jumping teeth even more likely All this stuff is usually a result of poor metallurgy and poor oil replacement intervals as engines need good clean oil to work well..
For me the thought of all those fine metal particles flowing around the engine can’t be good... and I’m not all all sure if the filter catches all. Actually doubt it does.. Such particles floating about with the oil can damage bearings and their surfaces as well as block/clog all those fine tollerances within the lifters. Blocked/logged lifters cause the dreaded tap tap tap which after some time can also cause cam lobe wear and such...
About the only way to check how much crud was circulating the engine is to drop the sump and remove the oil pump and look at its surfaces for abnormal wear... also doing the same for a crank bearing.... if all looks of, likely there is no issue and you’ve dodged a bullet...
To check lifters and cam requires the heads to come off which then requires new gaskets and head bolts...
But the question in my mind is why was the chain replaced, what condition was the tensioner, cogs and the old chain and what caused the issue in the first instance... and what is the likely hood of consequential damage to bearings lifters, etc... then take it from there.
PS: the coolant temp gauge is controlled by the ecu/cluster and as such doesn’t reflect the instantaneous coolant temperature... it’s heavily damped/abstracted so as not to cause alarm for the uninitiated owner... don’t put huge importance in the gauge pointer position relating to a specific temp...
Stretched chain can also result in cogs wearing out (Nissan D series was notorious for sintered chain cogs wearing out) making jumping teeth even more likely All this stuff is usually a result of poor metallurgy and poor oil replacement intervals as engines need good clean oil to work well..
For me the thought of all those fine metal particles flowing around the engine can’t be good... and I’m not all all sure if the filter catches all. Actually doubt it does.. Such particles floating about with the oil can damage bearings and their surfaces as well as block/clog all those fine tollerances within the lifters. Blocked/logged lifters cause the dreaded tap tap tap which after some time can also cause cam lobe wear and such...
About the only way to check how much crud was circulating the engine is to drop the sump and remove the oil pump and look at its surfaces for abnormal wear... also doing the same for a crank bearing.... if all looks of, likely there is no issue and you’ve dodged a bullet...
To check lifters and cam requires the heads to come off which then requires new gaskets and head bolts...
But the question in my mind is why was the chain replaced, what condition was the tensioner, cogs and the old chain and what caused the issue in the first instance... and what is the likely hood of consequential damage to bearings lifters, etc... then take it from there.
PS: the coolant temp gauge is controlled by the ecu/cluster and as such doesn’t reflect the instantaneous coolant temperature... it’s heavily damped/abstracted so as not to cause alarm for the uninitiated owner... don’t put huge importance in the gauge pointer position relating to a specific temp...
Flaggers
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Thanks for the replies guys, got the car back on Saturday and been driving it/been to mechanics today and everything looks good.
Chucked my new wheels on, black side vents, black number plates and replaced the silver Holden/SS badges with black ones. Few small things but changes the entire look (in my opinion anyway). Not really happy with the ride height, pretty big gap between wheels and the wheel arch.
What's the best go to for dropping the car down a bit? Nothing stupid, don't want it on the ground or anything, just to close up the gap a bit between wheel and body.
Chucked my new wheels on, black side vents, black number plates and replaced the silver Holden/SS badges with black ones. Few small things but changes the entire look (in my opinion anyway). Not really happy with the ride height, pretty big gap between wheels and the wheel arch.
What's the best go to for dropping the car down a bit? Nothing stupid, don't want it on the ground or anything, just to close up the gap a bit between wheel and body.
lmoengnr
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Did you find out about the timing chain?
Usually the only problem with the LS, was certain tensioners fall to bits, and needs the sump dropped to retrieve the bits.
Flaggers
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Here are a few crappy phone photos of the before and after new wheels, black side vents, black badges and black number plate.
Any suggestions on dropping the height a bit to remove the huge gap between wheel/wheel arch? Cheers.
Any suggestions on dropping the height a bit to remove the huge gap between wheel/wheel arch? Cheers.
MrBags
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Nice one. Looks way better with the wheels and badges I think.
Also the plates, I put black and white slimlines on my new daily too, those blue and white plates are horrible.
Good stuff.
Also the plates, I put black and white slimlines on my new daily too, those blue and white plates are horrible.
Good stuff.
