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VS L67 Ute Project

gtrboyy

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I'd hold off on stally untill all mods are completed especially extractors & valve springs etc then run it up again on dyno so that with help from tuner can plot correct sized stally for it or just leave it instead of guessing 3500 stall...kind of think tight 2800-3000 stally may suit v6 with top mount.

The more torque it makes particularly down low means less stall & quicker it gets on 1/4 start needing taller gears or tyres...slow process doing the right way bit by bit.
 

peteinoz

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I'd hold off on stally untill all mods are completed especially extractors & valve springs etc then run it up again on dyno so that with help from tuner can plot correct sized stally for it or just leave it instead of guessing 3500 stall...kind of think tight 2800-3000 stally may suit v6 with top mount.

The more torque it makes particularly down low means less stall & quicker it gets on 1/4 start needing taller gears or tyres...slow process doing the right way bit by bit.

Thanks!

3500 stall makes sense with a turbo on it, especially a larger one.

But this isn't lacking in torque at all.

in fact seems to stall up good as it is just on the brakes on the standard auto..

this thing is so lite in the ass as it is, it's hard to get it to launch as it is.

I've never driven down the 1/4 mile on slicks before, I've done a ton of street drag bracket racing on street tyres. Always had launch issues.

Can't wait to see if these things stick, going to start off as easy as possible and work my way up. , if it actually sticks, I think it will do pretty good 60 foots, for what it is.

I think the 3.9 gears should be ok with the 26 inch tyres on it fingers crossed.. They were way to low on those low profile semi's I had on it before.

Speaking to the guy I bought the tires from about what air pressure..

he said around 14/5 to get traction, if you get traction, try 17, the larger diameter tire will give you a better top speed.
First time I've heard that, makes perfect sense of course. So I can try that too.
 

gtrboyy

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It will probably spin the slicks if front brakes can hold it & auto is healthy enough...lots of wrong in rear of a commy if drag racing or tractionis main intention.

Brief summary...

Adjustable top arms to get 2 degree pinion angle
Lowered springs to try getting lower control arms sit more horizontal.
Adjustable panhard to get wheels centred again after lowering
27mm adjustable blade whiteline rear sway bar or muscle car garage item...poor mans anti-roll bar
^^ will need sway bar body brackets reinforced or they can bend/crack

With enough grunt will eventually bend control arm
airbag in driver's side spring & reinforcing top control arm brackets in body before they're ripped off (only for cars that hook up & raced alot or cars with lockers & fats lol)

Stock 6cyl front springs/shocks to get front lift...good mod & easy swap over in vr/s models.

After all that will come down to tyres...sticky it should hook up....cheapies should spin like a mofo if got the the torque/power

Got me farked why I still like drag racing & working on old holdens :oops:

Yet still like it & still learning new stuff each year!!!!
 

peteinoz

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It will probably spin the slicks if front brakes can hold it & auto is healthy enough...lots of wrong in rear of a commy if drag racing or tractionis main intention.

Brief summary...

Adjustable top arms to get 2 degree pinion angle
Lowered springs to try getting lower control arms sit more horizontal.
Adjustable panhard to get wheels centred again after lowering
27mm adjustable blade whiteline rear sway bar or muscle car garage item...poor mans anti-roll bar
^^ will need sway bar body brackets reinforced or they can bend/crack

With enough grunt will eventually bend control arm
airbag in driver's side spring & reinforcing top control arm brackets in body before they're ripped off (only for cars that hook up & raced alot or cars with lockers & fats lol)

Stock 6cyl front springs/shocks to get front lift...good mod & easy swap over in vr/s models.

After all that will come down to tyres...sticky it should hook up....cheapies should spin like a mofo if got the the torque/power

Got me farked why I still like drag racing & working on old holdens :oops:

Yet still like it & still learning new stuff each year!!!!


Thanks mate, much appreciated.

I've got stock front springs here already :)
So I guess I do that first to get the front height right, then adjust the back to suit.

There's adjustable panhard rod from ebay pretty cheap.

I'll see how the back control arms are with the spings that are on rear already, after I put stock ones in the front and see how level they are.
And go from there.

Thanks again.
 

gtrboyy

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Cheap tired complete struts easiest way to do it...slap em' in for racing take back out put in other utes to race.Really only good for tip runs & drags.

Drive like rubbish try to drift it on boat suspension...it's fun the first time just not sea worthy haha
 

peteinoz

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have you got an example of

" tired complete struts "

I can only find standard struts etc.
 

Fu Manchu

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This is such a great thread. I dont know how I missed it all. Been reading through with a cuppa.
Thanks for posting it. Best bit is everyone’s help so far. Love it.
 
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peteinoz

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He means use the most worn out 2nd hand ones you have (between your however many you own )


Doh!! of course LOL

I've got some spare standard ones to use..

I remember back in the day when I was racing we used 90/10 shocks.. e.g. go up easy, down slower.. might try to find some of them, in struts, if they make them.
 

peteinoz

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This is such a great thread. I dont know how I missed it all. Been reading through with a cuppa.
Thanks for posting it. Best but is everyone’s help so far. Love it.

Absolutely, I've got no idea what I'm doing..

the people here got me this far..

pity we went into lockdown today.. otherwise I'd be out there at queensland raceway tonight seeing how well it goes etc.
 
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