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VS rotor replace.

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crelok

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Hey all,new here and just received a VS and the rotors are poop,found a video to replace front and seem simple enough-2 bolts on the caliper and swap rotor and pads etc, is it the same for the rear?or is there anything else i need to do.
Thanks ahead.
 

losh1971

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4 bolts need to remove the caliper brackets as well. Need to check brake shoes as they could be worn out too. Shoes can be a bastard. Took me over an hour per side with lots of swearing.
 

crelok

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4 bolts need to remove the caliper brackets as well. Need to check brake shoes as they could be worn out too. Shoes can be a bastard. Took me over an hour per side with lots of swearing.
ok thanks!-are you talking about the handbrake shoes or the normal disc pads?..im new to this system is all as i have a hj60 landcruiser and it is just drum at the rear and this is different.
 

losh1971

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Yes handbrake shoes.
 

vc commodore

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To replace the pads, just unbolt 1 bolt that attaches the caliper to the bracket....This allows the access to the pads.

To replace the rear rotors, yes, 2 bolts to unbolt the caliper bracket....Be aware, it will be best before attempting to remove the rear rotors, spray WD40/CRC around the centre of the rotor....Also, using a wire brush, remove as much of the crud around the centre of the rotor as possible....This will help the rear rotor slide off, even if you have to use a rubber mallet, or worst case scenario, a metal hammer....
 

crelok

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To replace the pads, just unbolt 1 bolt that attaches the caliper to the bracket....This allows the access to the pads.

To replace the rear rotors, yes, 2 bolts to unbolt the caliper bracket....Be aware, it will be best before attempting to remove the rear rotors, spray WD40/CRC around the centre of the rotor....Also, using a wire brush, remove as much of the crud around the centre of the rotor as possible....This will help the rear rotor slide off, even if you have to use a rubber mallet, or worst case scenario, a metal hammer....
cheers!...awesome info.
 

shane_3800

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To replace the pads, just unbolt 1 bolt that attaches the caliper to the bracket....This allows the access to the pads.

To replace the rear rotors, yes, 2 bolts to unbolt the caliper bracket....Be aware, it will be best before attempting to remove the rear rotors, spray WD40/CRC around the centre of the rotor....Also, using a wire brush, remove as much of the crud around the centre of the rotor as possible....This will help the rear rotor slide off, even if you have to use a rubber mallet, or worst case scenario, a metal hammer....
I use a copper hammer, 4 pounder to be exact, never have to wire brush the spigot just spray some lube hit and spin.
I've been doing brakes for 11 years we machine in-house too. There's a reason we charge extra to do brakes because your boots and seals are inspected, slides cleaned, caliper brakets cleaned, aburtptment shims cleaned and inspected, hub face cleaned and brake fluid tested then system flushed if requied.
Pad slapping might work one time the next it could bite you with a seized slide and cause bad performance and increased pad and rotor wear.
 

vs-lover

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Yep rear lower slides pins on the rears seem to have a bit of a habit of seizing solid thus making a floating caliper only work on one side of the rotor.

I never just do a pad slap as that's just horseshit. I'll always do a full general overhaul of the system to ensure everything is working correctly now and into the future. Slide lubrication is one of the most critical issues on these older cars.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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Unless they were doing handbrake stops or drive around with your handbrake on then the shoes should be ok, copper hammer that's funny Shane-3800 I use a dead blow hammer the plastic orange one, but since your replacing the rotors any hammer will do. Don't forget to leave the handbrake off when removing the rear rotors. Backyard mechanic 30 years experience lol. :p
 
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