VT not starting Grounding issue? BCM??

[Trevor loves holden.]

What do you think is causing this sort of struggle start? I’m beginning to think it’s back to fuel I’ll check the plugs as well

I would start by testing fuel rail pressure and testing for spark by removing a plug lead and pulling a plug or if you have a spare lean the plug on its nut on the engine block then crank to see if spark is present. I think your better off stating ever think you have done so far and paint a picture because your all over the place.
List can be endless. DFI, coils, CAS, dfi plug or wires to bcm, fuse or relays.
Fuel pump, fuel filter, injector pulse wire from dfi. BCM security staying on.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

A bit of fuel came out of the heat shields for the leads not sure why

Your not making much since with your messages cant help if you cant get the message across, if your having a fuel leak then you shouldn't be driving it, find the leak it can only come from the fuel rail which is why I say its not starting.

 

[Glaze]

Well that’s why I’ve put up a video for a better understanding, there’s no fuel leak just a little fuel was present on one of the lead boot. Anyway I’ve replaced the plugs, fuel filter, relays, key remote, DFI, coils and tested voltage and current on battery and alternator. There weren’t any fault codes for CAS - there weren’t any fault codes for that matter. I’ll just play the waiting game see if it was the plugs

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Yeah the plugs have seen better days, your video only shows you cranking doesn't really help, what brand dfi and coils? new or second-hand, your plugs have a lot of carbon could be weak spark or running rich..

 

[Glaze]

Yeah the plugs have seen better days, your video only shows you cranking doesn't really help, what brand dfi and coils? new or second-hand, your plugs have a lot of carbon could be weak spark or running rich..

Damn, I thought the video would eliminate some aspects but at least you’ve told me the starter is good.
The DFI and coils are brand new Delphi fitted by mechanic when one coil burnt out (about 2-3 yrs ago) ever since then no problems with DFI/coils.
I noticed some sort of an injector noise when it fired up after installing new plugs. It disappeared after few seconds. I’ll get the pressure checked on the rail and regulator.

It’s just odd how sometimes it starts as if nothing happened then out of nowhere it doesn’t wanna start - usually after driving few k’s then once car is off sits for about 20-30 min then doesn’t start (99% in cold temps)

the car didn’t log any codes which is odd but a mechanic last month said he cleared few body control codes so I don’t know what’s going on and the startup struggle does not correlate to the amount of fuel in the tank - happens any level
Cheers

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Is the led flashing light off on the mode switch when trying to start?
Also try lock and unlock while the key is in the ignition before starting.
when it does it again give your fuel tank a few whacks but don't put a hole in the plastic, then try sounds to me your pump is not priming, Also spray some starting fluid in the throttle body when it wont start that will tell you if its fuel related.
Also change the fuel relay over with headlight and see if its not that.
Also try starting in N not P might be the P switch sensor.

 

[Glaze]

Is the led flashing light off on the mode switch when trying to start?
Also try lock and unlock while the key is in the ignition before starting.
when it does it again give your fuel tank a few whacks but don't put a hole in the plastic, then try sounds to me your pump is not priming, Also spray some starting fluid in the throttle body when it wont start that will tell you if its fuel related.
Also change the fuel relay over with headlight and see if its not that.
Also try starting in N not P might be the P switch sensor.

Nah the immobiliser disengages once it’s past ON. I’ve locked and unlocked car while key in ignition with both keys doesn’t fire.
Pump priming sounds loud and clear and fast..
I’ll do the relay and spray if it dies I’ve also tried neutral and park nothing changes.

The one thing that remains consistent is the harsh rattle noise when engine turns over then disappears, sounds to me top end and injector related I’m gonna try recording the sound once it dies thanks

 

[razezar]

For ages I've been having a similar problem with key starting my VX. It starts fine if I turn the key to start immediately after unlocking by the fob (i.e. within the ~20 second window in which the immobiliser isn't engaged), otherwise the engine will attempt to turn and just stall.

Currently I'm down to the one working fob which barely has any battery life left, so today I went to Mister Minit and almost got a new fob there. However when I described the ongoing start issue, Minit guy suggested that there's probably an electrical issue that will cause problems when they try to code the new fob, and he advised that I go to an auto electrician first.

Just earlier this evening I thought I'd try the 'start in neutral' trick as a process of elimination. I waited for the immobiliser re-activate, put the car in neutral and turned the key. The car started just fine.

Next step before resorting to the auto sparkie will be cleaning / replacing the transmission lock switch. This thread (https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-to-change-inhibitor-switch.118204/ ) discusses and links to a how to on on cleaning the switch.

Considering how dirty my power window button contacts were in the center console when I pulled them apart to clean them last year, I won't be surprised if dirt is the issue here as well!

 

[Glaze]

Mines definitely a fuel problem at this point after changing plugs and relays, car cranked for few seconds then fired (a little struggle wasn’t instant) however the noise still occurred for a brief moment. I’m gonna remove the regulator after depressurising the system and if fuel leaks out I’m assuming injectors are flooding?

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Mines definitely a fuel problem at this point after changing plugs and relays, car cranked for few seconds then fired (a little struggle wasn’t instant) however the noise still occurred for a brief moment. I’m gonna remove the regulator after depressurising the system and if fuel leaks out I’m assuming injectors are flooding?

Sounds like the signal wire from the dfi to injectors.
His a little read on testing your cas and dfi plug.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...e_Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw25UkWBcLeiUsL0vJ7WQXQp