Search results

might just be because the car had literally no power in it causing certain systems not to work. mine has done this both times my alt has gone. to be safe id get your auto elec to check your wires anyway but.

in reverse or driving really slow (up until 10kms at its worst) i get i horrible deep grinding noise coming from what im thinking is the diff? its most noticeable in reverse when turning or turning when driving really slow. but once i get past what seems to be on average 10km the noise goes...

had this in mine. was just a warped rotor rubbing on a worn pad. some days it was there some days it wasnt. same thing it only happened at really low speeds.

yeah the belt im fine with. more taking the pulleys off. ive been told there not easy to pull off haha.

awesome cheers dude. whats the go with changing them? any tips? haha

just wondering if anyone can get me the part number for this pulley circled? sounds like its about to explode its squeeling and grinding that bad haha. also just wondering what the go is with changing them. im under the impression you just have to loosen them by turning clockwise in stead of...

rims have since been plasticoated black and the tail lights tinted a shade or 2 darker. SSL kings in the back with pedders sports ryder shocks. SL in front same shocks. no engine mods other then a K&N panel filter. and a fully sick sound system that i spend to much time fussing over.

so jay87 was right. dunno why but i ran a thicker wire round the out side of the car and did a few tweaks and it was thumping fine so i swapped over all my power wires and put a bigger fuse in etc. everythings fine now. cant see any obvious damage on my old power cable but it mightve had some...

wow i just read alot of bullshit for no reason. hahahaha. and to keep this on track im running 8ga with a 50 for my inline. it seems to be going nicely these last few days with my gain down low and volume staying under 3 quarters. maybe i actually cant get enough power draw? although i still...

yeah but mines from the battery to behind the driver seat. probably not half the distance haha.

yeah checked the connections and swapped the inline fuse again. im pretty sure its 4 gauge for power and ground. my sub ran all the way home tonight but my stereo was down quite low because i had a killer head ache haha. if i turn it up it cuts out after a few seconds regardless of whether im...

moved my ground and i was getting about 10 seconds of sound from my sub when i turn my car on but its stopped again now. multimeter reads nothing at all unless i can quickly catch it during the first few seconds when my sub randomly works. but im not quite fast enough to do that haha. was going...

yeah well thats what its grounded as now. was just wondering if anyone knew of some factory ones but see if it makes a difference.

any one got some good factory ground spots for a vy ute? ill smack my ground on to one of them first and see if that helps.

nah i agree dude. just heading in that direction at this point. i have to go to autobarn tomorrow any way so i was gonna see if the audio installer had any sortve inputs while i was there.

yeah hadnt thought to run a multi meter off the out puts yet. ill do that tomorrow aswell. but yeah turns on fine but doesnt show any signs of protection mode or anything.

yeah i can do it tomorrow. i still cant see anything through the back of it to show its blown though. might try moving the ground point or sanding into the metal a bit on saturday so its pretty decent see if that helps.

figured it out! hahaha. ran my sub off my mates amp with the huge mess of speaker wire in my shed. sub cranks pretty hard off his amp so im now assuming mines blown. not good for a 3 month old amp haha. gotta do some hunting for this receipt now for warranty.

yeah ive been trying to track down a spare amp off someone. alot of my mates need there amps for obvious reasons. theyre all heavy hitters in the noise department haha.

and a tinsel lead is? haha. never heard of that one.

absolutely everything haha. stripped my interior appart to check all my power and rca and remote. ground is still firm and hasnt moved all since i put everything in. theres a serious ghost hiding in this mother ####er thats for sure. seriously cant think of anything at all other then something...

yeah im not doing that haha. didnt pay enough attention to that at school. i cant see any burn marks or loose items or obviously bad parts in the amp but. the bottom of it is clear perspex so ive already looked at that side of things aswell haha.

i dont have enough room for a second sub in my ute so im not expanding in it anytime soon haha. im only running the mono block and the speakers off a 4 channel bridged. but seriously got any ideas about this sub? im dying with out bass. its like torture.

so just checked all my wires. swapped the speaker wire and everything has power except the speaker wires. changed all my fuses again and checked my battery and its charging properly. the amp still isnt in protection or losing power. starting to think ive blown something in the amp maybe? have...

this is true. ive looked at it all and cant find any obvious faults. considering dropping it into an audio shop and seeing if they can find something. but that could be 2 weeks before i get a chance haha. the sub is a Kicker 10TCVT124 12" slim line and the amp is a Cadence QRS Q6000A mono block...

hahaha so you actually reckon its worth trying a capacitor? ive never looked into them so i dont know much about them. just what they do.

victoria man haha

not heat related. the amp only just starts getting warm when its on for long drives. its never cut out from heat. it hasnt been constant at all. just cuts out randomly and comes back on. it can be back on for 10 seconds or half an hour. thats why im so confused as to what it is.

yeah it hasnt done this at all until now and its been in for about 3 months. so im not sure what it could be. what are these capacitors worth?

was driving yesterday and my sub randomly cut off and came back on about 10 minutes later. this problem has occurred a few times since yesterday now. the amp is still running and doesnt seem to be going into protect mode. ive checked all my wires and nothing seems to be loose. im thinking there...

havent had the chance to do anything about it but nothing seems to have popped up since. trying to get it serviced on monday so i might see if they can check the codes. if its an o2 sensor whats usually the issue? i know nothing about them haha. is it a huge problem?

the check engine warning randomly popped up when i was driving the other night and i pulled over to check it and everything seems okay. oil is not low no unusual noises. but it popped up when i started it again so i waited til it cooled down when i got home and checked it again and still...

theres even a hole in the fire wall on the passenger side just behind the kick panel. if not clutch cable hole is your best bet.

i have a series 1 s pac ute and i want to put ss tail lights in it as it only has the base ones. but a mate reckons you need to change the loom for series 2 lights if i cant find series 1 ss lights. just wondering what exactly i need to mod to get them to work? ive been searching but i cant...

would be good to see photos! i plan on re doing my suspension the same as this. i dont like my ride height at all right now haha. would also be wicked to see some photos of where your amp is located! mines in a terrible spot right now and i cant think of many other places for it. but it sounds...

haha my bad! wicked ill have a geeze after work tomorrow.

my key seems to be lagging a bit? im thinking it might be the keys battery going flat. or i just have a dodgy key haha. have to get to about 5 meters away from my ute to unlock it? or is that about normal? also anyone know how much it is for a new key entirely? my old spare one is in the murray...

i had to get a camber installed in mine. im running SSLs with 19 inch in the rear. dont know how much it will be for you though cause i got mates rates. the wheels look much straighter though. handles a bit better aswell. especially when im loaded up for work.

mounted them inside the door under the vent near the hinge. about center of the door as theres a huge hollow in the lining under the air con and then ran the wires up the inside of the door and along through the stock door grommet. just in case some one searches this in the future!

picked up my splits today for my ute and just wondering if anyone has any photos of where their cross overs are mounted? preferably in behind the door lining so its hidden as id like to try keep a stock look. unless anyone has any better ideas? cheers