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Our VE did exactly the same for the first 4 years of ownership. Twice it ended up on a truck back to the dealer. Both times they said it was showing an injector misfire no 6, but was again running fine. They could replace it if I wished, but as it was running fine, would not be under warranty...

Yes, it's a rort. they quoted me $160 in 2019, to which i said no. I survived 30 years without a camera, i can go a few years more without the lines.

There is a manual release, but it's not user friendly - see attached, section 2-15 from the owners manual. The alternative, If you have a new battery, connect it with jumper leads to the posts in the engine bay and open boot - replace battery.

Bridgestone have their 4 for 3 deal on this month.

IMHO, it's a 3.0 SIDI, it's never going to sound good no matter what you do to the exhaust. Don't waste your money there. Add the SS mufflers for the twin tip looks for sure, but sound, meh.. Spend your money on decent shocks/coilovers and decent tyres, you'll be much happier.

If you are in Melbourne, go here Computerlign - Rolling Road

It was just the Rotors and the Caliper brackets, kept my calipers and everything else, didn't have to change backing plates or brake lines etc. Works well, no codes etc nothing, just stops better, I don't feel like I have to push as hard on the pedal. I'm sure 4 Pot Brembos will be better, but...

The SS brake upgrade is by far the cheapest and easiest. We've had our VE11 SV6 from new and the brakes were barely acceptable. I bought a set of SS rotors and caliper brakets and it's a definite improvement. Stops well with 2000kg of boat and trailer on the back.

I fitted the Elite Catch Can to our LLT SV6 https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/sv6-oil-catch-can.102900/page-13#post-2764310

If you've got one of these fancy Euro space savers i'd suggest checking it some time before you need it. I had to use mine yesterday and one of the side walls would not release, and not for lack of trying. After 45 minutes of inflating - deflating, rinse repeat, trying different methods to get...

The LLT SIDI has an alloy manifold LFX SIDI got the plastic one.

Reliability of our VE with the LLT has been great, it's done 130000km so far. The caveat with these motors is service histiory. From my exerience and speaking to others, they are a "dirty engine" and need regular oil changes. The 15000km recommended is too far apart, we do ours at 10000km...

Good to hear you got it solved.

I check oil level monthly, 1st weekend of every month, drain the can at the same time. So not sure on kms or how much oil is in there, it's not much, but better there than back in the intake.

Pressure sensor is not the same as temperature sensor. The car won't switch to LPG until the coolant reaches temp, if it senses that the coolant temp has dropped, it will turn the lpg off and switch back to petrol. Faulty temp sensor does this, it will work for a while and then not, how long it...

Had this with our factory LPG VZ. Temperature sensor for the LPG converter was the issue. Confirmed with multimeter. Had it replaced by All-Tek Automotive in Dandenong. You can replace it yourself as it isn't part of the high pressure LPG system. It's just in a fiddly area to work in - starter...

trouble is the "stupid gene" breeds at a higher rate than the death toll of stupids.

Double demerits doens't bring in any extra money. The cynic in me says they would prefer the speeders stay on the road and keep paying fines.

Testing the wires isn't hard. First check the voltage of the main starter lead, it should be whatever you battery voltage is. 12.6V is pretty typical. Grab the main lead and shake it, whilst measuring the voltage - did it change? It shouldn't Remove the trigger wire from the solenoid and do the...

^ Check this. we had slow starter and intermittant no crank - I replaced battery and starter to no avail in our VZ. Checked the voltage on the starter lead and solenoid trigger wire and found variable voltage and resistance. Replaced both and has been great since. Spins over much faster and...

Sounds like Vent actuators cycling. does it blow air out the correct vents when you change settings? Vent actuators are a common failure - I've done 2 so far.

Check voltage and continuity of leads to Starter, both the main power and the solenoid. Check when off and when trying to start. Give them a shake to and see if the readings fluctuate. The wires can break down with heat/age and not give 12v when trying to start. We had this in a VZ and replaced...

Ron, when you receive the fine, write them a letter admitting full guilt and acceptance of the fact you were speeding. State your, up until now, long term exemplary driving record and that you are ashamed of you silly actions and this was a one off occurance - as evidenced by your long term...

When we had issues with our VZ, the voltage at the main cable to the starter was 12.6V. So OK. Sometimes it wouldn't crank at all, and the voltage at the solenoid would fluctuate 12.V-0V when turning the key to start. When it did crank the voltage would fluctuate between 12.6V and 3V at the...

Check this ^ I've had the wires in both the lead to the starter and solenoid break down.

Later 2009 Commodores came out with the 3.0l SIDI LF1 and LFW. Are you sure it's a LY7?

I've used the park assist 3 times in mine, for novelty factor only, but gee it's slow and often misses a park that I could get into. Yes, you have to pay attention, it does nothing with the brake or accelerator, only controls the steering.

We've got a VE11 SV6 petrol and a VF LPG Evoke wagon. Yes, the VF is down a little on power, but you won't notice it unless you're wanting to race at every set of lights. The VF is cheaper to run, $40 gets me 500km around town, whereas the VE costs $80 for 580km. Both are great cars, but the LPG...

You're going to need better than std shocks to run 20inch rims and lowered springs. Kings lowered springs are usually pretty stiff. You've got a stiffer spring, and a heavier wheel/tyre combo that the std shock can't control

Someones done work on it and forgotten to put it back. Mine came back from the dealer with a similar "modification"

I will be harder than just replacing lights. Rear bumper and tailights are unique to the Calais, so you'll need to fit a bumper from a SV6 SS or Omega to fit the SV6, SS tailights Lights on the Calais are taller, so bumper is different.

Yes, the VF steering wheel location is much better than the VE twist stalk unit, even the units on the VR-VT with buttons on the end of the stalk were better than the VY-VE type. It took me a while to realise Holden had moved the Cruise to the wheel when I was looking at my first VF. I got in...

VR-VE all had cruise on the indicator stalk. VF is the odd one out.

I replaced the clockspring on our SV6, no programing needed. Straighforward parts swap.

Just check that they actually do the work requested, my experience with them proved it was a worthwhile check.

Well done, you're getting much better service from PC than I ever did. I was lucky if they actually serviced my car, let alone wash it.

Get a borescope camera, they are cheap on ebay, catch, bangood, whatever site you prefer.

A LS powered Mx-5 is very hard to get engineered in Aus now, but kits are available. See links; Insane Power The Crazy People I've read a bit on Ryans LFX Miata, but I'm not sure of how much of the modification was to fit the LFX in and how much was to modifiy the car to suit his purpose.

Can't help you with the RPM info, but as fellow MX-5 owner, I'd want to see pics of this LFX powered Miata :D Also, did you use the V8 Roadsters kit and how easy was it?

My daughters VZ had a intermittant start issue, but with no codes or check drivetrain messages though. Just no cranking at all, just the solenoid click. New Battery - not fixed New Starter - not fixed. When I replaced the starter, i noticed how close the leads come to the exhaust, so for...