Search results

This happened to me not so long ago. I used my spare key to make it unlock, as it isnt as worn as the regular one. I made sure not to turn the key completely off until I reached graphite powder. Got home and lubed up the barrel with graphite powder and good as new. Lubricate every few months...

This is about all I could find regarding videos... Ill take some pics and post it if all goes well :) lol

Howdys, About to remove and rebuild a BRC Genius (Fly) convertor and replace the membranes and O rings as it is leaking LPG into the cooling system (Temperature fluctuations) and occasional rough idle... Already serviced the lock off valve and twin filters so thats all that is really left at...

That looks wicked, nice job. 3800 Black Edition ;)

Can you show some pics on the next door you do by any chance? The little metal tabs** Cheers

If i was you, from my experience, you should also check the following, https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/the-mysterious-commodore-front-end-clunk-knock-tap-noise-when-turning-solved.265652/ Might seem unlikely to you, but it screwed me over previously.. Lol

When was the last time you drained the radiator and ran a cleaner through the cooling system? I had the same thing recently, it was just the crap being sucked back in from the overflow bottle. Drained and cleaned cooling system with a cleaner, removed overflow bottle and thoroughly cleaned +...

I didn't realise there was so much technology involved behind oils, lol

The link: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

An interesting read to say the least. I wonder which oils use what base group? Have a read... What about synthetic motor oils? Do they need Viscosity Additives? Group IV (4) and Group V (5) base oil (synthetics) are chemically made from uniform molecules with no paraffin and generally don't...

All good, keep us posted.

Best way to avoid unwanted noises re-appearing again is to switch out to nyloc nuts, ive just replaced the originals thismorning.

As above in previous post. +Remove fuel filter and drain into clear container to inspect. Replace with new filter and if the old one was dirty, throw in some injection cleaner in next servo visit. (i had a vr ute do this to me once, the fuel pump died about 3 weeks later. Id be sitting idling...

Regardless of octane ratings, ive found the best bang for your buck concerning economy in all octane fuels is: Clean air filter Clean MAF sensor Injection cleaner Good set of plugs correctly gapped. Works for me anyway :)

I had a similar problem some time ago, I changed my fuel filter, threw in some new spark plugs and ran some injection cleaner through and the problem went away. Not saying that is your fix, but if you havnt changed the filter for a while, its worth a shot. Checked for any fault codes?

Another day on the tools huh? Lol. Good luck.

The starter motor is brand spanking new? Everything has been reassembled correctly 100%? You turned the motor over by hand through several rotations without coming across resistance or any unusual noises (apart from compression)??? Just a quick stab at this point in time, make sure the...

Good stuff :)

All good bro. Cheers.

They sit pretty good. Think ill just stick with the alternator covered, for when I wash the engine bay lol Maybe aluminium colour would make them blend with the rest of the engine better..

Good luck with everything. Especially your new bub. Mazda 6 are a nice ride :)

Agreed, pull the grommet out, slide the hose through as far as you can and then try refitting it to the bottle that way. I cleaned my overflow last week, installed new hose and pushed the grommet into the bottle. Had to take the bottle back out, retrieve the grommet and do it that way myself...

Reliable. Simple to work on and parts are cheap. Performance is good enough for what I need. Can break down in any town in Australia and get parts the same day, just about. Id go ECOTEC.

The new offshore Commodore approaches, what are your thoughts everyone? No V8s? More or less a complete import.... Will you embrace it? Or will you stick with the original equipment?

I got sick of looking at my standard engine cover on the old Ecotec, so I decided to Modify it. Anyone can do this, all you need to do is work out which sections you want to keep and use an angle grinder with cutting disc to slice away the parts you don't want there any longer. I decided to...

Wont be a fix for everyone, but certainly should help the few... And yeah, the last 4 weeks, I pretty much replaced just everything under the front of the car before discovering the actual problem,lol. My struts were shot, as were the strut tower bushes and bearings and I upgraded to the heavy...

Trust me when I say, get the spanner onto them.. Mine weren't finger loose either, but i got 1-1/2 turns when tightening them with a spanner. There was also no visual sign of them being loose etc..the bracket hadnt been moving or anything... Not sure where this should go, but i see lots of...

The more feedback here, the better. After all the money I spent, all I had to do was tighten 8 nuts, lol.. But i learned a lot along the way. :)

Thats exactly the reason I put this post up. I googled it every night for weeks, but never came across anyone mentioning those firewall to chassy brackets. Anyone who has the noise, would know, it kind of sounds like the steering rack, a bad ball joint, engine mounts, etc etc etc....the list...

Anyone landing on this thread for front end noises, a clunk, creak, tap, or thud noise, go to the link below and also check for loose nuts..before replacing everything, like I did, lol... https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/the-mysterious-front-end-knock-tap-noise-when-turning.265652/

After what i just went through, my advice would be to pop your bonnet, tighten the nuts on both of the brackets mentioned using a 13mm spanner and go for a quick test drive, before looking at anything else... I wish I had of, but it just sounds like something in the steering or suspension...

You can pop the bonnet and get to them with a decent size 13mm ring spanner, but obviously using a socket/ratchet from underneath would be probably better... Keep us posted.

"Only appeared when your rolling and rocked the wheel from side to side" Thats exactly what was happening... Lol. Sounds like the steering rack is loose to the chassis, or a noise inside the rack itself. Even engine mounts come into mind* If i was doing 20-30 klms and turned left or right into...

Let us know how you go, come back and post whatever it turns out to be, okay.

I was suprised at how loose they where, even though they looked tight and there was no signs of any movement there. What a pain in the ass that was...lol

Mate, what a headache, lol. I tried so many things, luckily most of it needed replacement anyway, shocks,balljoints,bushes etc.. But honestly, It had me beat right to the very end. Id almost bet you $50 they aren't tight, lol...

Just make sure you get the right one, Deep pan filter, or shallow pan filter kit...

If it aint broken, dont fix it, lol

I tell you what boys, I'll be celebrating tonight, lol

OMFG.... For over a month now, Ive been chasing this noise. Every time I turn left, but more so to the right, I would get this little tap, or knock sound from the front of the car, underneath or near my feet. Wouldn't do it while sitting still, even when turning the wheels from lock to lock...