2007 Calais V Check engine code p2127

[Rivers56]

All out of ideas so iv just ordered a new accelerator pedal to try and get rid of these codes. Il keep this thread updated for anyone else that may have this problem in the future

 

[426Cuda]

I reckon Aussieakito is on the money.

 

[Muke]

My apologies Rivers56, I started to write up that learn procedure and got side-tracked. Then being my usual self completely forgot to get back to you.

Looking at two different manuals, one said the learn procedure was required, the other didn't mention it at all. Odd. But yeah, I think you could be onto it as it does say that the learn procedure should only be done with that one code and no others. That code being for learn procedure not done. So points to some issue with the pedal or wiring for me. Though I'm guessing you'll need to do it once the new pedal is in, so glad you found it anyway. Seriously doubt it's the TB, you'd have to be really unlucky to have a new one throw the same code as the one you just replaced, and throw the APP code not a TPS code.

The other thing I was thinking (and I haven't looked into this yet) is a problem with the wiring from the pedal sensor. Maybe a short in that from some water, or a loose connector. Sort of what you were thinking may have damaged the APP (pedal sensor). I haven't checked to see where the wires go from that to see if there's a connector to check (or to test the continuity on the wires). I'll pull out the wiring diagrams today to see if I can work it out. IF it goes straight to the ECM, that could also be an issue maybe (the connector). Not sure though if that would throw a voltage error or a communication error (if there even is a comms error code for that). Just thought of that as a possibility as I was getting a comms error with my EBCM that I managed to fix simply by cleaning the connector with some electrical contact cleaner.

Out of curiosity, what are you using to check the codes and clear them? Are you using a cheap OBD2 dongle or a Tech2/workshop scan tool? I just ask as my OBD2 dongle off ebay will only show "P" (powertrain) codes and not "B","C" or "U" codes. Where my Tech2 picks up them all. Wondering if there could be a "U" code you aren't seeing as that relates to the CANBUS system and communications between modules. This is all brainstorming for me, so I'd have to check up on those as well. Oh and which engine is in your car, in case I need to know that to tell which wiring diagram to check?

Oh and big thumbs up for updating the thread still for others. Hate it when threads just die and no solution is given if found (or what people have tried to solve the issue, so others have ideas if they have a similar solution).

 

[Muke]

Quick little update. Looks like it's the same setup on all engines in regard to the pedal sensors. There are 6 wires:
White/Black stripe - Sensor 1, 5 Volt
Blue/White stripe - Sensor 1, Signal
Brown - Sensor 1, Earth
Brown/Yellow stripe - Sensor 2, 5 Volt
Light Blue - Sensor 2, Signal
Purple - Sensor 2, Earth

These go to the ECM, and don't change colour or attach to anything else along the way. Unfortunately I have no idea if there's a connector anywhere to check or it's just part of the main wiring harness from there straight to the pedal. But at least there's something to look for. Depending on which engine you have is which pins it goes to on the ECM connector. You could check the continuity of those wires (especially the purple and brown/yellow), but from my limited knowledge I would think a low voltage is more likely a connector issue as a dodgy wire would be no voltage or intermittent voltage. That is of course if the sensor itself isn't stuffed.

 

[Rivers56]

@426Cuda replacing the throttle body was the first thing I did. It came with a new TPS attached as well so it's all new

@Muke Thanks heaps for putting the time and effort in to help. I notice a lot of threads where the resolution to the problem is never posted. I tried the learn procedure that I found a posted but with no luck. When you do it you can actually hear the throttle body open and close so I presume I did it correct.

The reason I changed the throttle body first was because not only did I read the generic code (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "E" Curcuit Low) but its also where the water directly touched. After reading the PDF link I posted it seems the code is for the Pedal position sensor.

Yeah I defiantly believe there has been a short. When I changed the plug for the loom I actually reused the pins already attached that push down into the connector. Maybe they need a spray of electrical contact cleaner like you said? A visual inspection they looked fine though nothing to cause a resistance of any sort

Yeah I am actually using an eBay wifi dongle. I leave it plugged in all the time and have it hidden away so I can bring up the iphone app Dashcommand on my head unit screen. I have set up a touch screen overlay with mimics x2 so I have full control over my iphone threw the screen of the head unit.

The engine is the v6 195kw version

The colour code you have up there is a little different to mine.
I have from left to right Top row (gray clip facing down)Purple,White,Green
Bottom row Brown/Black,Yellow,Brown
From memory it is apart of the engine wiring harnes so unable to trace back throw a visual inspection

Iv come home today with a note from Australia post to pick up the pedal tomorrow. Il definitely be installing tomorrow night if nothing comes up

Il be sure to keep everyone updated

Thanks again Muke!

 

[SV6.07]

i had the same on mine. i replaced throttle body and replaced the accelerator pedal too.. still got the codes.. it was also re-learned too... turned out it was corrosion on the plugs to the accelerator pedal. holden replaced the plugs that had the corrosion and also did a bypass. setup. all up it cost me $460. this bypass is what they do when ppl get the throttle pedal position sensor error. i no longer get the codes. car doesn't go into limp mode or ESP. runs fine now. whats happened sounds like when the water got into the plug. one could have had some small corrosion in it and the water elevated it. causing the car to get the codes and safety mode. it will get worse too. mine was only doing it maybe once a week.. then it got to daily and the limp mode got worse. couldn't trust the car or go anywhere as the limp mode was getting worse. car died in spots had no power at all... caused so many problems on the road.

 

[Rivers56]

Thanks for the input SV6.07. If the new accelerator fails to clear the code il definitely be trying some electrical contact spray. I know someone with a proper snap on scan tool,would this be able to turn the code off? Like you said it's only gotten worse to the point every time I drive I get the code. I don't mind if it happens when I pull out of my drive way but soon as it happens on a busy road it's pretty dangerous.

 

[Rivers56]

Just installed the new accelerator sprayed the plug for it and even the TPS plug with electrical contact spray and still getting the code!! I think as SV6.07 said il have to turn the actual code off.
Any more input from you Muke would be greatly appreciated

 

[SV6.07]

i replaced throttle body and accelerator pedal. didnt fix the problem or stop the car going into limp mode more often. making the car dangerous to drive. or trust. ended up taking the car to holden. they did a bypass fix and now the car is fine. cost me $460 that is total including the diagnostics. car runs fine with no problems or errors.

 

[Rivers56]

SV6.07 The photos supplied seem to be just what I need!
Where would I purchase this by pass? Or is it something you have to get holden to do?
Thank you again for the info