SOLVED!!! No pwr to pump trigger, no spark

[123esproc]

Ok so… just put a motor in a wh rolling shell which came with harness etc.
Problem I’m having is… cranks but won’t start!

Things I’ve tried…

Swapped bcm, pim, abs module, crank sensor, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, tested the vats removed ecu im using I n my ss (worked perfect) cleaned the grounds I could find, checked for continuity from ecu to pump relay (green white wire) checked continuity from abs-obd-bcm (green/white wire) all seems ok.
Removed grounds from heads and behind battery and refit

Things I’ve noticed…

no power from ecu to pump relay.
Bridging pins 5&6 on obd doesn’t work.
Won’t start with ether down the yap.
There’s no power for 2 seconds on turning the key but pump works well when relay circuit bridged with paper clip.
Pin 20? (Orange) and 19 ? (pink) have no power ? But supposed to have constant?
PRND321 does NOT light up on dash when cranking or with key on.
Power windows and headlights do not work (maybe separate issue but it might be a clue? )

What am I missing?
What tells the ecu to send power to the pump relay?
Someone gimme an idea of wtf to test next… I’m close to wrecking the thing
I don’t wanna pay $1000 for a auto elec ripoff
Pleeeez halp!!

 

[Jolls]

G'day @123esproc

It is frustrating - I had a similar problem and I expect that you have done most of the checks required; however, there isn't enough information to provide you with specific advice. It could be something with communications between the BCM/PCM, the theft deterrent system or a wiring issue.

Given you have linked the modules etc I assume you have access to a bi directional scan tool.

What are the current and historical codes?
Can you do a functional test of the pump using the scanner?
What is the scanner telling you about communications between the modules?

With this sort of information we may be able to provide some advice.

Have you downloaded a copy of the VT-VZ workshop manual (search this site for a link). It is key as you can follow the original diagnostics to resolve the DTCs one at a time. It is bound to be something simple - you'll just have to eliminate it one thing at a time.

With my problem it ended up being the crank angle position sensor connector being dirty. Simple issue kept me scratching my head fora fortnight or so.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

 

[123esproc]

The pcm is vats removed so no need to link anything i assume? And I only have a crappy scan tool that doesn’t connect to the Holden obd software unfortunately so I’ve only tried the paper clip option to get fault codes which didn’t work either

 

[Lex]

Ok so… just put a motor in a wh rolling shell which came with harness etc.
Problem I’m having is… cranks but won’t start!

Things I’ve tried…

Swapped bcm, pim, abs module, crank sensor, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, tested the vats removed ecu im using I n my ss (worked perfect) cleaned the grounds I could find, checked for continuity from ecu to pump relay (green white wire) checked continuity from abs-obd-bcm (green/white wire) all seems ok.
Removed grounds from heads and behind battery and refit

Things I’ve noticed…

no power from ecu to pump relay.
Bridging pins 5&6 on obd doesn’t work.
Won’t start with ether down the yap.
There’s no power for 2 seconds on turning the key but pump works well when relay circuit bridged with paper clip.
Pin 20? (Orange) and 19 ? (pink) have no power ? But supposed to have constant?
PRND321 does NOT light up on dash when cranking or with key on.
Power windows and headlights do not work (maybe separate issue but it might be a clue? )

What am I missing?
What tells the ecu to send power to the pump relay?
Someone gimme an idea of wtf to test next… I’m close to wrecking the thing
I don’t wanna pay $1000 for a auto elec ripoff
Pleeeez halp!!

What car did the motor come out of?

If the motor came out of a different car to your wh, the wiring maybe slightly different?

Get a wiring diagram for both motors & compare? Could be one or two wires different?

 

[123esproc]

Motor and loom came out of a wh stato….

Just tried another loom and still nothing… so surely this rules almost everything from the engine bay yeah?

 

[123esproc]

Motor ran fine in my test car (corolla skid car) now not just cranks

 

[Lex]

Motor and loom came out of a wh stato….

Just tried another loom and still nothing… so surely this rules almost everything from the engine bay yeah?

Have you had a play with nss (neutral safety switch)? May not be in park or neutral properly or wires in plugs not making proper contact?

 

[Hole Denn]

Motor and loom came out of a wh stato….

Just tried another loom and still nothing… so surely this rules almost everything from the engine bay yeah?

Most likely you have a electrical wire colour mismatch between body loom.
Best experience learnt is making mistakes and eventually finding the solution.
From my experience I found that loom wire colours are basically the same from base sedan models to optioned up models, there are a few wire colour and connections different. Basically the bay engine loom is the same but models like statesmen have the extra parts.

WH is a model between vt and vy/vz so there is a variation in body looms used in vx sedans of the time to stato models so perhaps look at your daily vx ss to see the wire colour differences.

 

[123esproc]

Have you had a play with nss (neutral safety switch)? May not be in park or neutral properly or wires in plugs not making proper contact?Well it cranks fine so I assume it’s ok… I broke the thing when messing with it today so bridged the connection to make ot think it’s in park (grey and grey/blue)

 

[123esproc]

Have you had a play with nss (neutral safety switch)? May not be in park or neutral properly or wires in plugs not making proper contact?

Well it cranks fine so I assume it’s fine ?
Does the coolant temp sensor or knock sensors cause any of these issues ?