Ja, that's what I am coming to realise. Ordered the part just before. I was mostly only hesitating in case there were other tuning/running issues at the same time. But doesn't hurt changing the part – I know it has been ticking (more than it should) for a few months now.
Helps to know about the tabs on the plugs that need releasing. But even knowing that I ended up removing the whole unit first – easy to get at that way.
Now ... this has taken away about 80% of the rumble. Still it has a slight feeling of being under revs when at idle, not by much. As Mark said, maybe I need to disconnect the battery for an hour and then give it a good run?
Thanks for all the tips – way better than waiting for weeks before any decent mechanic could look at this – as well as the money saved, and pride restored!
Turns out the rumble only disappeared for times when the engine was cold – as soon as it warmed up it was back to same. But the rumble felt different, so that part definitely had something to do with it.
So ... I took it to a local mechanic and he said engine mounts. And the trans mount. The car is there now being sorted.
The guys are using OEM oil-filled front mounts (from Holden) and a third party mount for the trans ... because OEM trans mount was stupid expensive.
From here, what do people reckon the repair bill would/should be ... and an estimate of the total hours needed?
They just called back and said it had [actually only] taken 5 hours: 2 hours per front mount and another for the trans mount. At least their hourly rate is not too bad – $95 p/h plus GST. Still reckon I am getting stiffed on the time.
Anyway, thanks for the tips – better to be in the know!
Back to the purge valve. I posted recently my ve was running rough, has ticking noise but also really poor acceleration. One fella said change purge valve which i plan to. Took it off for a look and could blow through both ways . No code’s coming up but there just a good loss of power