VY V6 DFI Plug Pinouts

[Glaze]

Go to the wreckers, find your model (or any ecotec from vs - vy). Now you"ve got a ginny pig, pull it apart (take pics first).
Now you know how.
So go home & fit your parts & test. Not hard.

Don’t have any diy wreckers in Sydney anymore. I’m waiting for a second hand plug on the way from eBay so I’ll work around with that when it comes

 

[Glaze]

Quick question before I start cutting and soldering. Also side note, pretty hard to depin the DFI plug looks like a solder job unfortunately (entire plug).

My question is: does the CAS send signal to the DFI and then leads and therefore spark plugs OR does it work opposite way? It could be CAS sensor intermittently faulty. I used envyous customs scan tool and no faults stored (VY by the way, can’t bridge pins)

I swapped a working DFI plate (few days ago) paired with working coils onto my ute, it ran for 10 seconds then died. Everyday I crank it but no spark. I’m beginning to think it’s CAS because the pin in that state still worked for months but there was intermittent spluttering/missing on load here and there. Any advice appreciated cheers

 

[Lex]

I think you're pic is upside down?
I believe the pin that is burnt is P 12v. That pin powers the dfi.
If you haven't already replaced that pin, you've probably taken out the replacement dfi & coils?

If l remember correctly, dfi plug will have the pin assignments on it, like above.

 

[Glaze]

View attachment 268208
I think you're pic is upside down?
I believe the pin that is burnt is P 12v. That pin powers the dfi.
If you haven't already replaced that pin, you've probably taken out the replacement dfi & coils?

If l remember correctly, dfi plug will have the pin assignments on it, like above.

I just cleaned the DFI plug with some contact cleaner from work and it fired up but has bit of a miss

 

[Lex]

I just cleaned the DFI plug with some contact cleaner from work and it fired up but has bit of a miss

Coils , dfi , leads plugs, or valves?

Worked it out yet?

 

[Draimond]

Red Wire is the 12V ✓

 

[Draimond]

I'd advise against using solder near the engine bay. Becomes brittle. Correctly crimping works.

I'd also advise against replacing the connector with a flying lead harness that gets spliced into the engine existing loom. Any resistance on the cam / crank wires will mess stuff up.

My de pinning tool is a flat blade screw driver that I've worked into shape with a bench grinder.

Bit of a miss sounds like a weak connection.

 

[Glaze]

Well checked coils and all 3 have strong blue spark, no miss anymore after turning it off and on again. I’m a bit skeptical driving it if enough resistance builds then kaput once more… it’s been idling for the past 30mins normally

 

[Draimond]

Like many things ecotech related, resistance can be a problem that emerges from heat soak. My starter motor doesn't work beyond the initial cold start in summer for example.
You may encounter issues on a hot day. Let it cool down and go again. If all else fails, shove some extra metal in the connector to tighten up the fit temporarily.

I can think of a number of ways to repair that 12 volt connection.
I'll get back to you if I find a legitimately pain-free way to replace it.

That 12 volt wire is spliced into the rest of the engine harness about 400mm back up the loom.
Shockingly, the entire engine is run off a single 18(ish) gauge wire from memory. All the coils, all the injectors and the DFI module... 1 wire.
I've got a unwrapped harness sitting here that I can share photos of.

 

[Glaze]

Like many things ecotech related, resistance can be a problem that emerges from heat soak. My starter motor doesn't work beyond the initial cold start in summer for example.
You may encounter issues on a hot day. Let it cool down and go again. If all else fails, shove some extra metal in the connector to tighten up the fit temporarily.

I can think of a number of ways to repair that 12 volt connection.
I'll get back to you if I find a legitimately pain-free way to replace it.

That 12 volt wire is spliced into the rest of the engine harness about 400mm back up the loom.
Shockingly, the entire engine is run off a single 18(ish) gauge wire from memory. All the coils, all the injectors and the DFI module... 1 wire.
I've got an unwrapped harness sitting here that I can share photos of.

Thanks mate appreciate it, I’d rather fix it for good but over the weekend will idle it and see how it behaves. To be honest I’d clean it thoroughly and leave it be instead of messing the harness but who knows what could happen in future and I’m not too keen to replace the entire harness because of one bad pin. I idled the car for a good 1hr and was fine. Let me know cheers