'04 VZ SV6 Fuel Pump

[ToastMalone]

To take things further you need a skilled diagnostic tech. Auto Sparkies “generally” (plenty of good ones too) are a bit off the mark with diagnostic skills and equipment. It quite a specialised field and one in its own right.

Without any diagnostic skills or equipment as I’ve shown in the previously linked videos, you’ll be parts swapping to solve it until the whole car has been changed.

I would seek a mobile diagnostic tech.

Still no answers on the fuel relay or continuity from the pump to the relay.

If the pump works but no pressure, you have a Robles with either the pump, the install of the pump (internal leak) or a leak (external).

Yeah the auto elec confirmed the pump wiring was all good and working as intended

Was over it and ended up picking up a cheap second hand engine and putting that in, Car does crank for extended period of time before starting which i think is because the computer thinks its -40 degrees outside so its running VERRRY rich,
the thermo fan is also on all the time when the car starts and even with the key out the thermo fan stays on for a few minutes before turning off. Blowing ALOT of smoke (The exhaust system does have the cats hollowed out from the previous owner)
with a cheapie 2.5" catback (stock headers) - could the exhaust really cause that much smoke?

My engine was 10H7C - This one was a 10H7A (read on multiple different threads that this should be fine?)

The engine itself is very healthy

 

[lout]

thats a big parts cannon
fired an entire engine at it and still problems
get auto elec to diagnose your iat sensor
now for the rest of the story
how long have you owned this car, was it running when you got it, how deep was the flood it was in

 

[ToastMalone]

thats a big parts cannon
fired an entire engine at it and still problems
get auto elec to diagnose your iat sensor
now for the rest of the story
how long have you owned this car, was it running when you got it, how deep was the flood it was in

Yep, Auto elec had too many jobs on today to squeeze me in but he will be around tommorow sometime, i plugged in the diagnostic tool and seen the IAT and also the ECT were both at -40 degrees, i disconnected the maf sensor(connects to the airbox itself) and also the ECT sensor near the passenger side header towards the front of the engine (pretty sure thats the ect right?) and cleaned the plugs up, after putting the plugs on the IAT sensor was reading roughly the temperature outside the car and wasn't stuck at -40 anymore. the ECT remains at -40 but havn't tried to start the car since the IAT sensor is reading cause the ECT problem persists and can possibly cook the engine.

Note: the new engine came with the full loom/all bolt ons literally EVERYTHING was swapped over. new air filter/oil filter/oil/coolant etc was obviously redone when the engine went in. and new engine mounts cause even the ones on the new engine wasn't worth putting in to have to replace later down the track.

Okay so the story goes
I purchased the car roughly a year ago from a guy who supposedly had just purchased the car himself, he filled it with petrol on the way home and the next day it just never started again, figured it was BS and would most likely be snapped chains or even hopefully something simple, when i went to pickup the car i was looking over it the guy actually seemed too genuine, even after giving him multiple chances to slip up/own up lol, told him i will most likely put a new engine in it cause its most likely the timing chains and he kept saying how it cant be that extreme and not to do that before going to a mechanic cause it drove so beautiful on the way home and how it made no noises or anything suspicious (there is other reasons why I have even more trust for what he's saying but don't want to give to much info regarding the previous owner as he wouldn't be hard to find cause he is pretty well known even outside Australia.)

So she was a crank no start effectively. had a mechanic look over the car and he was certain the chains were fine and it had plenty of compression with the old engine.

new engine before removal:

 

[Lex]

Yep, Auto elec had too many jobs on today to squeeze me in but he will be around tommorow sometime, i plugged in the diagnostic tool and seen the IAT and also the ECT were both at -40 degrees, i disconnected the maf sensor(connects to the airbox itself) and also the ECT sensor near the passenger side header towards the front of the engine (pretty sure thats the ect right?) and cleaned the plugs up, after putting the plugs on the IAT sensor was reading roughly the temperature outside the car and wasn't stuck at -40 anymore. the ECT remains at -40 but havn't tried to start the car since the IAT sensor is reading cause the ECT problem persists and can possibly cook the engine.

Note: the new engine came with the full loom/all bolt ons literally EVERYTHING was swapped over. new air filter/oil filter/oil/coolant etc was obviously redone when the engine went in. and new engine mounts cause even the ones on the new engine wasn't worth putting in to have to replace later down the track.

Okay so the story goes
I purchased the car roughly a year ago from a guy who supposedly had just purchased the car himself, he filled it with petrol on the way home and the next day it just never started again, figured it was BS and would most likely be snapped chains or even hopefully something simple, when i went to pickup the car i was looking over it the guy actually seemed too genuine, even after giving him multiple chances to slip up/own up lol, told him i will most likely put a new engine in it cause its most likely the timing chains and he kept saying how it cant be that extreme and not to do that before going to a mechanic cause it drove so beautiful on the way home and how it made no noises or anything suspicious (there is other reasons why I have even more trust for what he's saying but don't want to give to much info regarding the previous owner as he wouldn't be hard to find cause he is pretty well known even outside Australia.)

So she was a crank no start effectively. had a mechanic look over the car and he was certain the chains were fine and it had plenty of compression with the old engine.

new engine:

Try changing the fuel?

 

[lout]

Try changing the fuel?

wouldnt that be funny
1 year and a new engine
find out filled with contaminated fuel

 

[ToastMalone]

Try changing the fuel?

Oooh thanks for reminding me about that, When i purchased the car the fuel tank was waaaay over full like I've never seen before, seen it past full but this was....extreme, so actually thought maybe it was something with the evap system like the purge thing or flooded the charcoal canister - I've heard of this doing similar things in other cars. siphoned a few jerry cans out and ran it in my other car without issues (that had some fuel in it already so possibly wasn't concentrated enough to show symptoms of bad fuel anyway).. might try that tomorrow, still has half the tank of fuel from the previous owner (year old fuel) which isn't helping either yeah. will do that tomorrow regardless for peace of mind

Damn researching on old fuel and that's actually really bad.. need to get the fuel out asap

 

[ToastMalone]

Update:

Replaced with some fresh juice.


Had something come up so had to reschedule the auto elec for last night, but he only had a few minutes.

In the meantime i put a brand new ect sensor in it (reading -40)
The only issue that persists is the ECT sensor reading -40 so its dumping all the fuel through it, he did something to it and asked me to check it with the scan tool and it went to like 143 degrees, pretty sure he used the earth from the battery to the sensor plug. then back to -40

Hes going to grab a wiring diagram for the car and pop back out today sometime, praying its not the ECU being manual there isn't many in my area

 

[lout]

he is not much of an auto elec
measure power and ground at ect
usually 5v but sometimes 12v
use a resistor wheel and supply about half and see if scan tool shows changes
takes 10 minutes
or if not lazy like me ,measure at the ecu

 

[ToastMalone]

Thankyou! I'll tell him to do this today

 

[ToastMalone]

Update:

Auto elec didn't have a resistor wheel thing he said the one he has is for temperature or something?
He tested and said the plug has 5v and also tested it at the ECU plug,

not knowing were to go from there i decided to - Don't know if i should have done this but yolo. I grabbed my old mans LE0 ECU and put that in my car (DIDNT TRY TO CRANK CAR CAUSE HES IS AUTO) connected the scan tool and checked live data and seen the ECT sensor was reading 11 degrees and working correctly, put my manual ECU in my old mans car and the fault transferred to hes car, The ECT was reading -40. so it definitely has something to do with the ECU itself i believe?

The auto elec reffered me to a place called injectronics to have the ECU tested, they're closed till Monday so will have to organise it then.

(Back of the ecu is stamped and was tested in 2020)