Strut top mount how to check if failing

[robgm]

I've done it..I've successfully replaced/rebuilt the front struts using KYB (i did the rears last month). When i took the originals out the shocks had gone....i pushed them down and they stayed down. Also the top mounts were slightly collapsed, the bearings seemed okay. So top mounts weren't as bad as i thought but i did change them. So i guess the failed shocks were not pushing up against the top mounts, and those mounts slightly worn, hence the gap. I didn't have new bump stops so used the old ones......the old ones sort of deteriorating but still stop dirt getting in. The only issue now is that the KYB screws that stick into engine bay are too big for the original monroe plastic caps. Does anyone know how i can cover those ugly bolts? Photos attached. I also replaced the sway bar rods because i noticed those bushing rubbers had split. Tip: I'm on a slope so i only jacked up one side onto axle stand....so to get the sway bar rod off i had to use the jack to jack up the rotor enough to loosen the rod. Since the sway bar was giving tension due to uneven car position....i guess if both sides were on the same height stands, then this wouldn't be a problem. Thanks to this forum for the multiple procedures, and the haynes manual (especially for torque settings). I'll do a youtube soon....to go with the many many YouTube about this....hope i can add some value.... next job is replacing prop shaft centre bearing.....need to find a decent vice (don't think my stanley quick release will cut it)...

 

[robgm]

So the car has been running for almost a month now...I just noticed yesterday, in the train station car park, that one side, front, has a bigger gap than the other. I thought it was due to the small slope in the car park, but when i got it home its the same. so I measured it (roughly) and it's about 8mm difference. Is this normal? Does it take time for the new shocks to settle? I did notice it visually. Photos attached.
One thing i didn't do.....i see the how-to videos of people doing shocks and they always let the new shock fully rise before installing....I didn't bother...is that important?!

 

[Skylarking]

We’re the springs and rubber/plastic isolators correctly mounted on the spring seats? If not, you may have the spring end sitting where it shouldn't be. And at a guess, the spring wire is 8mm in diameter so that’s may be the issue...

It could also be the shock rod isn’t correctly engaged in the top bearing (as some designs have a cutout on the shaft that locates it) but I’m not familiar with the VZ design. The amount of piston rod protruding from the top bearing should be the same left and right, so an easy check.

Otherwise it could be poorly made springs that haven’t been well scragged at the factory. They may settle down after a bit of up and down... may...

 

[losh1971]

Are the coils on the correct side? If original springs it's not uncommon for the drivers side to sag a little.

 

[Skylarking]

Are the coils on the correct side? If original springs it's not uncommon for the drivers side to sag a little.

Hahaha, forgot about fat drivers and sagging coils

 

[robgm]

Original springs....i only changed the struts/dampers and top mounts/bearings. And its drivers side that is 'sagging'. So is that true; the drivers side spring may drop/lose tension more than the passenger side over time (car is 16 years old)? Damn, i checked online and a pair of front standard springs are $180 ($90 each) - wow, simple spring costs as much as each rear shock which has more parts in it....

 

[greenacc]

I've done it.. The only issue now is that the KYB screws that stick into engine bay are too big for the original monroe plastic caps. Does anyone know how i can cover those ugly bolts? Photos attached. I also replaced the sway bar rods because i noticed those bushing rubbers had split. Tip: I'm on a slope so i only jacked up one side onto axle stand....so to get the sway bar rod off i had to use the jack to jack up the rotor enough to loosen the rod. Since the sway bar was giving tension due to uneven car position....i guess if both sides were on the same height stands, then this wouldn't be a problem. Thanks to this forum for the multiple procedures, and the haynes manual (especially for torque settings). I'll do a youtube soon....to go with the many many YouTube about this....hope i can add some value.... next job is replacing prop shaft centre bearing.....need to find a decent vice (don't think my stanley quick release will cut it)...

The problem is the nut, not the screw. If you reused the old flat nuts the caps will fit on.

 

[mpower]

i had a problem like that in my VX, had the shocks done with Blistein B8's could no longer fit the dust cap.