VF SSV 2014 L77 Upgrade / Mod

[Exiiled]

Hi All,

I'm looking at upgrading my 2014 SSV VF Commodore (Auto) and have very limited experience/knowledge other than what I've researched to get me to this point...

I have recently upgraded my cat back to 3 inch Xforce and now looking at getting the Xforce 1 7/8" 4 into 1, OTR Intake Kit, Camshaft upgrade and DOD delete (L77 Engine) all complimented by a custom tune. I have received 1 quote for around $7.5k however I don't know if this is about right money wise and also don't know if there are any other decent auto workshops around Brisbane that I should give a go...

I am looking for suggestions on other High Performance Mechanics you might've used in the Brisbane region that's worth making a call to and also if the price point of $7.5k sounds about right for these particular upgrades.

Again, I'm new to the modification scene and looking to slowly get into it. I love my SSV and use it as an everyday car, however would like it to sound a little more tough and throaty whilst also getting a kick in power.

 

[SnowDoggyDogg]

DOD delete is expensive.... any particular reason you want to take this functionality away from the car?

You'v already got the cat back right?

So you are purchasing X Force headers and cats, OTR CAI, camshaft, tune and the delete for $7.5k?

It's probably okay pricewise but I guess it's a lot of cash for some noise and you've not elaborate on the cam specs and the proposed power upgrade. I'm assuming there is no stall convertor as you've not mentioned it in the price and you said it's a daily.

You might want to consider changing the gear ratio. The 3.7's will get you up in the powerband quickly around town which means you'll be pretty noisey while maintaining a reasonable speed limit. The exhaust note over 4000 rpm is delicious and a bit mundane below that point.

 

[monstar]

Your car will perform better, drive better, be more efficient doing effective mods vs off-the-shelf stuff shopping based on retailer popularity and ridiculous sound. Just to be clear your noise limit is 82 db like spirited conversation outdoors in a quiet street, but that's not to say you can't have a smile driving around enjoying the note if done properly. But the 3" doesn't help anyone except your self or anything technically, at least not driving around daily in a car that wants 2.5".
Deleting AFM is something people did 5-10 years ago with the previous L76 (different cam and lifters to yours) on the basis of increasing valve lift to accomodate time-proven old tech three-bolt race cams. Your cam is way more advanced than most mechanics understand: 0.510" lift as is BTW, 0.030" more than most people think, which is about right for raising HP in the tune to a 5700 rpm limit without intake choke. In other words camshaft is fine, don't waste your money.
Forget the cheap arse shiny 1 7/8 with your tune, my car has same engine different tune makes more power than a W1 yet my headers are UHT painted mild steel 1 3/4".
Best way to improve sound and give the tuner a chance to optimise an unopened solid setup is cold air intake, yes.
Speak to Western Suburbs Mechanical.
Regarding diff gears our car at around 280-300 rwkw, yes 3.27 (HSV auto gearing) will liven things up. Thing is it will stuff your economy in some ways but what I did was extend AFM operation to come on more often to compensate.

 

[Exiiled]

DOD delete is expensive.... any particular reason you want to take this functionality away from the car?

You'v already got the cat back right?

So you are purchasing X Force headers and cats, OTR CAI, camshaft, tune and the delete for $7.5k?

It's probably okay pricewise but I guess it's a lot of cash for some noise and you've not elaborate on the cam specs and the proposed power upgrade. I'm assuming there is no stall convertor as you've not mentioned it in the price and you said it's a daily.

You might want to consider changing the gear ratio. The 3.7's will get you up in the powerband quickly around town which means you'll be pretty noisey while maintaining a reasonable speed limit. The exhaust note over 4000 rpm is delicious and a bit mundane below that point.

I was told that the DOD deletion was required on the L77 engine due to the overall reliability of the system when upgrading the cams. No reason other than mechanics recommendations.

I've already got the cat back Xforce system. Changing the gear ratios I'll ask about though. Thank you for the help!

 

[Exiiled]

Your car will perform better, drive better, be more efficient doing effective mods vs off-the-shelf stuff shopping based on retailer popularity and ridiculous sound. Just to be clear your noise limit is 82 db like spirited conversation outdoors in a quiet street, but that's not to say you can't have a smile driving around enjoying the note if done properly. But the 3" doesn't help anyone except your self or anything technically, at least not driving around daily in a car that wants 2.5".
Deleting AFM is something people did 5-10 years ago with the previous L76 (different cam and lifters to yours) on the basis of increasing valve lift to accomodate time-proven old tech three-bolt race cams. Your cam is way more advanced than most mechanics understand: 0.510" lift as is BTW, 0.030" more than most people think, which is about right for raising HP in the tune to a 5700 rpm limit without intake choke. In other words camshaft is fine, don't waste your money.
Forget the cheap arse shiny 1 7/8 with your tune, my car has same engine different tune makes more power than a W1 yet my headers are UHT painted mild steel 1 3/4".
Best way to improve sound and give the tuner a chance to optimise an unopened solid setup is cold air intake, yes.
Speak to Western Suburbs Mechanical.
Regarding diff gears our car at around 280-300 rwkw, yes 3.27 (HSV auto gearing) will liven things up. Thing is it will stuff your economy in some ways but what I did was extend AFM operation to come on more often to compensate.

So realistically the best suited exhaust was a 2.5" over the 3"? It doesn't sound bad at the moment and is still relatively quiet. Is this mainly because of the back pressure? I was told by the ones that upgraded my exhaust that the 3" is future proofing the car and hoping i wasn't led astray lol.

I'll have a chat to western suburbs mechanical, thank you for the advice. Ultimately i want my car sounding a lot nicer and louder than what it is. Fuel economy is no problem to me at all as i have a company fuel card for my SSV. Covered under my companies car allowance package. So what i'm taking out of this is that the cam upgrade is probably worth a miss and focus on the OTR and tune.

Thank you for all your help, I'm still new to this all and trying to learn as i go. All your information and suggestions are a massive help. If you have any other recommendations or suggestions, they are appreciated.

 

[PeteSS]

I went from 3 inch exhaust to 2.5 inch (with single outlet mufflers as opposed to dual), as the 3 inch was too loud. Mines got a Magnuson blower + cam, and i was warned going down in size would hurt power/performance.

I'm sure on the dyno the 3 inch may have a few KW more than the 2.5 inch , though I can't feel any difference

 

[monstar]

So realistically the best suited exhaust was a 2.5" over the 3"? It doesn't sound bad at the moment and is still relatively quiet. Is this mainly because of the back pressure?

I can explain in more detail and have elsewhere but it is the exhaust gas escape velocity that you want to maintain, particularly at lower RPM in order to effect scavenging from the cylinder. Fluid dynamics of an exhaust of a street car with cats and catback need to factor devices and harmonic design in order to pump the relatively cold gas way out the back, particularly when it is not revving its tits off at peak RPM.

I was told by the ones that upgraded my exhaust that the 3" is future proofing the car and hoping i wasn't led astray lol.

At 640 BHP same engine I have a 2.5" catback for maintaining velocity. I don't know what sort of future these guys had in mind for you but unless you are running nitro and or a turbo and use it for offroad racing, I think 3" catback is almost always retrograde. Makes a noise like old school hotrod, sure. Personally I think the argument is like fitting a fishtail pipe to a modern sports bike to get that 50's mod sound. Leave performance and efficiency on the table.

So what i'm taking out of this is that the cam upgrade is probably worth a miss and focus on the OTR and tune.

Bottom line with all Bolt-ons (FBO) and tune your car will make 250-260 rwkw (330 boot badge), but good usable torque for little outlay. Spend $2000 to get close to 300 rwkw (385 boot badge) with no sacrifice to key driving criteria. Spend another $2500 on cam swap and get another 20 rwkw (410 boot badge) and lose some drivability, manners and lower RPM torque.

Thank you for all your help, I'm still new to this all and trying to learn as i go. All your information and suggestions are a massive help. If you have any other recommendations or suggestions, they are appreciated.

Yes I'm not sure if 2014 model has flex fuel sensor if not buy a flex fuel sensor and when it is being tuned ask to tune the e85 tables as well. More torque, more HP, greater margin for safety and cleaner running. Plenty of stations in Briso west.

 

[07GTS]

I went from 3 inch exhaust to 2.5 inch (with single outlet mufflers as opposed to dual), as the 3 inch was too loud. Mines got a Magnuson blower + cam, and i was warned going down in size would hurt power/performance.

I'm sure on the dyno the 3 inch may have a few KW more than the 2.5 inch , though I can't feel any difference

i done the opposite went from a cheap not straight thru 2.5" with stock rear mufflers (kept same extractors) to a twin 3" straight thru, im happy with the sound but could feel the slight loss in low end and had to add 10% more fuel up top to suit the new flow, even with the blower u can loose bottom end and the smaller restrictive exhaust gave massive torque down low ( peak torque at 3700rpm) , im yet to get on a dyno to see actual differences tho

 

[daves8]

Bottom line with all Bolt-ons (FBO) and tune your car will make 250-260 rwkw (330 boot badge), but good usable torque for little outlay. Spend $2000 to get close to 300 rwkw (385 boot badge) with no sacrifice to key driving criteria. Spend another $2500 on cam swap and get another 20 rwkw (410 boot badge) and lose some drivability, manners and lower RPM torque.

I have the bolt ons (headers, exhaust, CAI and tune) and 250rwkw. What is the $2000 investment to make 300rwkw?

 

[monstar]

I have the bolt ons (headers, exhaust, CAI and tune) and 250rwkw. What is the $2000 investment to make 300rwkw?

Swapping 1.7:1 rockers for high lifter 1.85:1 roller rockers and top quality valve springs to control valve train at higher RPM. In essence creates a cam with specification of LS3. Tune to suit.