Looking for help from Down Under

[Skylarking]

Seems the way one can do such mods is to get all the service manuals for the vehicles where the donor modules come from. Then look at the diagnosis section for the sensors connected to the module in question. These diagnostic sections specify the sensor voltages the modules see during the test procedure… Then one can compare the workshop manual diagnostic sections to confirm that the donor module expects what the vehicle sensor provides… But such is a really laborious process and one needs access to multiple workshop manuals and a lot of time…

Then there is the issue of faulty spare parts as shown in this Diagnose Dan video

So much for the standardisation of such stuff…

 

[Fu Manchu]

I know why this is happening with the clutch. It’s because it’s upside down. If you shipped the car to Australia the switch is then the right way up and works as intended.

Boom-tish.

Sorry.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Seems the way one can do such mods is to get all the service manuals for the vehicles where the donor modules come from. Then look at the diagnosis section for the sensors connected to the module in question. These diagnostic sections specify the sensor voltages the modules see during the test procedure… Then one can compare the workshop manual diagnostic sections to confirm that the donor module expects what the vehicle sensor provides… But such is a really laborious process and one needs access to multiple workshop manuals and a lot of time…

Then there is the issue of faulty spare parts as shown in this Diagnose Dan video

So much for the standardisation of such stuff…

That is a remarkable story there. Ultimately the “fix” was to invert the current to produce the correct wave forms and start the car, so a common theme there.
Invert the wires on the clutch switch for the win maybe?

 

[OldSkoolGP]

That is a remarkable story there. Ultimately the “fix” was to invert the current to produce the correct wave forms and start the car, so a common theme there.
Invert the wires on the clutch switch for the win maybe?

Looking at the wiring schematics, 12 volts comes from a key on pink wire that powers other things like the PIM. So 0V is present on the other side with the clutch pedal up, 12V present with the clutch pedal down. I would need to invert that process, but the switch isn't capable of doing it. There must be a different clutch switch out there that inverts the process, so I'd probably need to get that one. If somebody could look up the part number for one for a VZ 6.0 Ute, I'll compare it to what we have this side of the Pacific.

 

[Skylarking]

Invert the wires on the clutch switch for the win maybe?

It depends on how the ECU is wired up to the switch and whether the switch is Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC).

I‘d guess that one pin on the ECU provides voltage which is sent to the switch while the other side of the switch goes back to a sense pin on the ECU. Alternatively the voltage can be provided to the switch from another circuit altogether. The switch sits in the middle of that voltage/sense pin loop so swapping wires in such an arrangement won’t change the behaviour. Swapping the switch itself from NO to NC switch (or visa versa) will see a change in behaviour.

In such arrangements, what the ECU expects depends on the difference in switch hardware (NO or NC) and this expectation would simply be software (calibration) file within the ECU itself.

Alternatively, the ECU can be wired differently, that is it only uses an ECU pin which provides the voltage and senses function and the wire from this pin goes to the switch while the other side of the switch earths the signal. In such arrangements, swapping wires may not be possible if the earth is through the switch body. If the earth is through a wire, again swapping wires doesn’t achieve anything.

Smarter systems like the VF even have a clutch switch calibration process

Cars can be a pain is you want to chop and change things… but that’s where the fun is the real frustration is lack of information on how things work

[ typed late last night and not posted until now where we know voltage is provided to one side of the switch via another circuit ]

 

[Skylarking]

That is a remarkable story there. Ultimately the “fix” was to invert the current to produce the correct wave forms and start the car

Yes it was remarkable and highlights that you can’t trust new parts these days. You must check/test them to confirm they are work as they are supposed to… which requires detail information in the workshop manual.

That problem caught out a few mechanics

 

[OldSkoolGP]

So I'm back on the ABS module issue at the moment. Sometimes it's easier to understand an issue if you can see what is happening rather than someone trying to explain it to you, so I made another quick video tonight for all of you to see what I think the solution is to getting my ABS and TC working again.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Somewhere out there is 3 or 4 people who had a heap to do with developing Holdens system. They would no doubt stumble on a thread like this and casually have a solution and explanation, then post here on the forum. That would be a nice thing to happen.

For all our individual niggling issues on various projects, we are instead in a fairly dark room poking around and then having to reverse engineer the system to figure it all out ourselves.

I for one am deeply appreciative that you are:
A. Doing this at all.
B. Documenting it in a methodical manner.
C. Sharing your experience as you go.

 

[OldSkoolGP]

I have no idea how you guys locate anything part wise. Unless I just don't know where to look. I'm exploring the possibility of using the VE ABS module, but it sounds like it won't work unless I have a steering angle sensor and yaw sensor installed. The yaw sensor is easy enough to get here, but what is the part number for the VZ steering angle sensor? It seems to have been more common on V6 models with ESP, and my column does have the cutout for it, but not the wiring. Any part numbers or suggestions as to where I could get one would be great!

 

[OldSkoolGP]

I am literally one step away now. I managed to reprogram by ABS module after much trial and error. It is now programmed as follows:

Engine: V8 L76 & L98
Transmission: 6Sp Manual MM6 T56
Body: 4 Door Sedan SWB
Suspension: FE2 or Calais
Brakes: Standard or HSV

This fixed the C0569 error code. But the U2105 Symptom 71 error code still exists, which says Invalid Signal from ECM. My theory is that the E38 Operating System I am using is for a Thunder Ute, and Utes didn't come with my ABS module. So the OS is sending the wrong kind of data to the ABS module, and it's not happy. So what I need to do is use the OS from a Commodore, because those came with the ABS module the GTO uses, the 0265 900 325 module. So here is what I need:

I need the VIN from a 2006 VZ Commodore that came with an L76/L98.

6 speed manual would be preferred but automatic will work if it's the only thing available.
It can't be a Ute or a Wagon. It has to be a 4 Door Sedan for this to work.
Does anyone have one of these cars that would be willing to share their VIN with me?