[VZ] VZ VE VF Alloytec Cooling System Repairs

[Fu Manchu]

Feel free to comment.

 

[stick3]

good job mate with great detail and pics i see its in the howto section and i would also add ve to the heading make it a bit easier to find when you scroll quickly looking for a particular model and there 14/15 pages to click through

 

[Fu Manchu]

This may also help for removing the upper intake manifold.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/towbar-wiring-wk-statesman.273424/

The legendary @Mufudzi did this video on the inlet seal repair:

 

[Moosejaw]

Feel free to comment.

I am planning ro replace the water outlet seals in vz. Is it the case that a new gasket between upper intake( plenum) and lower intake if required will be a metal gasket? If it is..is gasket sealant required on these surfaces. If i am off the mark here could you tell me whats what?

 

[Fu Manchu]

• Early on, the gaskets were paper. Holden moved to metal gaskets. Much better to use. Not expensive.

• It's really not a big deal removing the intake plenum, but many make it out to be.

• Best to replace the gasket, just incase you get it back together and have a vacuum leak. (Mace and Rev High have good prices)

• No sealant required.

 

[Moosejaw]

• Early on, the gaskets were paper. Holden moved to metal gaskets. Much better to use. Not expensive.

• It's really not a big deal removing the intake plenum, but many make it out to be.

• Best to replace the gasket, just incase you get it back together and have a vacuum leak. (Mace and Rev High have good prices)

• No sealant required.

Thankyou for that very concise reply. I agree the mace gasket looks good value. You have encouraged me to go ahead with the job.

 

[Moosejaw]

Thankyou for that very concise reply. I agree the mace gasket looks good value. You have encouraged me to go ahead with the job.

Hello Mr Manchu. Regarding the coolant filler pipe i have twice removed it to fix a leak from the seals and each time the leak persisted. I cleaned the faces and used new seals. I am probably going ro use a new pipe third attempt. But my question is this..after bolting up to the required torque i noticed that there remained a gap of a few mm between the face of housing and the block. I guess i was expecting the two to mate up and im wondering if in your experience you could comment on that point and add anything elde that i might have sone incorrectly here. PS: I modified the ghetto bleeder to include a run off pipe with tap so as to drain excess prior

to lifting off filler pipe.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Thats the most ghetto coolant bleeder... ever.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I'm not certain which seals you mean?
Do you mean the seal on the filler cap? If so, you might need a new filler cap?

Do you mean the seal on the ghetto bleeder?

 

[Fu Manchu]

This is a far better tool for bleeding the coolant. One day, I'll get one. About $50-$70 for one.

This one is the ducks nuts and is more like what is used in the factory when filling fluids on assembly.
Connects to an air compressor. Draws all the air out of an empty system. You can then pressure test it for leaks with the vacuum gauge. Then turn a tap and you introduce coolant without air entering. Instantly done. No bleeding needed.